zippy

I was around for the original build of this. It is a great setup for show.

I had 50 more of them at one time, can't find them. Wish I had alot more so others that wanted them could get them easier.

Normally the belt driven fuel pumps go in place of the a/c compressor. I've seen a few at work on sand rails. I'm not sure I'd pick that over twin electric pumps, but yes there are options. The cost of doing a mechanical belt driven pump would be rediculous by the time you get everything to make it work and then you just hope that you have no belt issue's. 1000hp fuel systems aren't nearly as difficult to build as they once were. You can buy ready to go systems for trucks now that will support that kind of power or build your own easily for a reasonable price.

For an off the shelf cam to match what you're looking for I'd look into the gt 2-3 cam from Lingenfelter for TR Blower Cam from Thunder Racing to go with a 3200 stall. . Although most would recomend a big camshaft there is no reason to do so. A Procharger will raise the running rpm quite a bit by itself let alone adding a cam. With the Lingenfelter cam your shift point would be about 6400rpm or so even with it being that small. The Thunder Racing cam would bring your shift point to about 6700rpm although it will give a noticable cam sound. I've installed slightly larger such as the Leading Edge Performance stage 1 blower cam, but a cam that big will be happy shifting at 6700-7000 and with a Procharger your launch won't be quite as strong unless you go with that 3600. If you really want the lope you can go with that cam and get the 3600. With the 3600 it will be damn strong. There seems to be a rash of guys wanting to replace the lifters when doing their cams and I haven't really found the reason. If you insist in replacing the lifters just go with another GM set (part number 12499225).

First and foremost I haven't seen anyone comment on that cam. That is a very large cam for a 5.3L. If you use a cam that big you will need a 3600-4000 range stall converter to make it work at all for you. The 799 heads milled down will make very good power in a 5.3L. The newer 5.3L's are rated at 315hp and have these heads, but they use the flat top pistons from the 4.8L which even with the larger chamber gives them a compression of 9.9:1. GM does now make a 243/799 casting with the smaller chamber (61.9cc) which is a part number of 88958622 although it only comes in the CNC port. If you have the 799's milled down about .030 and use a .041 head gasket you will see a very noticable gain when you add a decent cam. If you do sell the 799's and really want to turn it loose with the 5.3L save up for the Trick Flow's made just for the 5.3L. They are part number TFS-30500001-C00. Here is an article with those heads. Trick Flow head swap

This will be a never ending list. I will be adding to this list as I go. If you have part numbers that you are absolutely 100% positive and I seriously mean 100% positive that you have the correct part numbers, feel free to post them here. Post is being started by something posted by BlownFogger540. Part numbers coming soon:

The Tahoe's did have a 4.10 gear option although it is rare to find them. I had ordered many myself when I was still ordering trucks. If you don't get one from a truck with full time 4wd you'll need to change out the output drive for the passenger side which has the disconnect in it for the part time 4wd's.

The Holley piece really has the look to it like they did their homework on it. Any aftermarket intake is pricey and none are going to give you a huge gain. The idea in doing an intake manifold even if you only gain say10hp for 1500 or more is that you have increased power output without losing any driveability. Whether you do a Fast, Holley, Edelbrock, etc, the idea is to gain power without losing any torque at all down low (hopefully pick up some) and see a good gain up high. In the world of making power to gain even say 15hp more on a build I'd rather build with a smaller camshaft and better intake than a stock intake and bigger camshaft to make the same power. The ideal build is big port heads (within reason), big tube headers (again within reason), big port intake with correct length runners and overall intake volume, and mild camshaft. Make your power with big flowing parts and not have to do it all with the camshaft choice.

Either will work. The idea is to just replace your stock unit with their piece and the stockers came both ways. Odd enough in the picture one of them is the 3-4 piston. Pictures don't have to be the part selling, but it is funny.

I'm hoping to work out a deal to get one of these to test. I'm really hoping to do a complete test of rectangle and cathedral port intakes. The test done with the Fast vs. the ported L92 intake like many tests showed an un-expected gain and with porting on the Fast and a 102mm throttle body the Fast should have made more or made the same. As for those buying the Fast LSXrt, they are seeing 15-20RWHP gain in the cathedral port intakes even over the new style truck cathedral port intake. There will be an L92 port Fast LSXrt made at some point but I don't expect it to be a big gain over stock just like the LSXr/LS3 intake. The LSXr/LS3 intake out of the box and with a 90mm throttle body will make + or - 3RWHP of a stock LS3 intake. Port that same intake and slap on a 102mm throttle body and you should see a 20RWHP gain or more. It has been suggested that the 102mm throttle body isn't a gain without a big motor. A friend recently tested a 102mm throttle body on a completely stock LS3. The 102mm throttle body made 7RWHP more than the 90mm and that was on a stock 6.2L. Here is a good Fast square port intake test btw. Fast intake test

It's unusual for me to recomend this, but I'd recomend looking into Jasper. The can ship overseas as far as I know and if installed at a shop you'll get a warrenty. Here is a site to check from. Jasper Powertrain They do a pretty good job on the GM front diff's. The shop I work for has installed a few and with no comback's. The are quiet and seem to hold up well. Make sure to use good synthetic fluid and if you are running the autobahn type roads I'd also recomend installing a diff fluid cooler in for the front diff. You'll use something like this cooler pump along with a large trans cooler. The front differential was never designed for full time use and as a result they never built it with a large fluid capacity. Adding a differential cooler will add in alot of fluid capacity as well as keep the fluid cool which is the biggest issue in the systems that have the front diff always locked in.

The additive has nothing to do with using cheap fluid or good fluid. The type of clutch material and locking system used in the Gov-lock that is used in these trucks does not fair well to using the additive. If you add it in the locker will still work, the problem is that it is very good at not un-locking when using the additive which will cause you to get the spool feeling when driving it around. The additive is only make for standard clutch or cone type limited slip diff's where the material in the clutch pack is designed to use it no matter the brand of fluid.

I'm not trying to keep people from posting. There is a method to how something is worded and posted. You can share experience in how parts you've bought have served in performance, durability, and overall personal opinion. Too often we get people who know only what they have read or been told and will post information as if they have built the parts first hand. I've seen explainations of how torque converters work by people who not only have never even taken one out, but have only information to share from someone else who told them wrong information. I've seen comments from people on how good a product is as they go on and on to explain just how durable a product is because it's holding up so well for them in the 1 week that they've owned that product only to a couple weeks later share how that product is broken. A better way to post something like that would be "I bought product XXX because I've read or been told that it is the best part for XXX and so far I like it. Some minor examples over the years. One guy years ago bought Nology wires and spark plugs.He then went on and on how good they were and explained in detail how they worked (from what he'd read and been told by the salesman). From his post about 10 guys on here bought them with every one of them having to take them off because they cause horrible RF issue's with the stock pcm causing running problems, many codes, etc. He should have said I'm buying these and I'll let you know how well they work. Because he sounded so technical and confident many others bought them, installed them, and shortly thereafter took them back off. A few on here have posted about injectors they purchased and how great they were not realizing until later how inconsistant they are or how they didn't come with any data. Injectors with no data are no good. Drilled injectors are even worse... Over the almost 10 years I've been on here there have been many guys that have posted transmission advice is great detail. Commonly those guys are doing this over and over since their list of won't break that parts have broken. One guy on here was a transmission hero from his posts 7 transmissions of his own later on a 14 second truck. He did have some good advice, but after every long post of changes from the last setup came a story of broken parts that weren't strong enough. I had so many calls from guys with 13 and 14 second trucks scared to death that their transmissions were going to break because they read from someone's post that if you don't have this list of parts your transmission is just going to die at the first wide open throttle run. How many times I've read that the 4L65E is basicly a 700R4 which was never designed for this much power. The TH350 was void of pretty much anything making over 300FWHP and the absolute strongest full production motor put in front of the TH400 was the LS6 at a whopping 450fwhp a feat the 6.0L can achive with bolt on's and a very mild cam change. I'm not saying the TH400 or TH350 isn't stronger than the 65E it is just that the power they were built for isn't really that relevant. One of my customers with a GTO made around 100 dragstrip passes with his all stock 65E having a best run in the 11.2's. The Chevy High Performance truck made over 200 dragstrip passes with stock hard parts in the 65E. Rather than post after post of how bad these transmissions are lets get those who build them with success to post up help with builds or those who have bought transmissions that have held up for a while post up what is in their trans. Tuning is another area. I have honestly seen someone recomending a tuner on how great he is all the while he's waiting for a pcm he ordered to show up yet. No experience with the product yet and yet will go in every post to tell about it. Whether it be spark plugs, pcm's, brake pads, stabilizer shafts, shocks, etc. My point to all is please do tell your experience with a product or service happy or not. Just don't go into huge detail on something you seriously didn't know about before you got yours or tell how durable your part is that you've owned for a week.

Should be fun and hopefully I'll get to race both trucks. Lets make some fun of this. Maybe a little fun at Octane Raceway also? (go-karts)

I'm really short on time with my job working me so many hours and with as many people as I help after work. Many of you don't know or understand, but on an average night after I get out of work I field 2-3 hours of tech calls from friends and many people I don't even know. Either way I'm making my best effort to improve the site and am looking for very serious suggestions. I spoke with the big dog's and we will likely be adding a new moderator or two. I plan to add alot more tech info, part number sections, and other helpfull things to keep those new guys from getting bad info. One big change though is to get rid of as much of the bad posters as I can. If you don't know the topic you are answering on be carefull how you answer it. I don't need guys answering transmission questions for example if you've never even had one apart and are only answering from what you've read or heard. Don't answer also if you haven't figured out your own. You can post a reply for your experience, but make sure it is known that you are also a novice. I am constantly fielding calls from people with questions based on what they read in replies to their posts of incorrect info. One faulse answer read by 1000 people makes for 500 that will believe that answer and post that same info in someone else's post as correct making a wildfire of faulse info. Either way, we love the site and people on it. We want to make this the best more informed site we can and help the new guys enjoy it as well as keep the old guys here. Thanks, Zippy

This post is going to be a list of part numbers for front and rear differentials used in Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Denali, Escalade, H2, Avalanche, Express Van, etc, etc... I will also be adding in part numbers for transmission parts in the near future. As with other posts I've made it will take some time because I am always busy, but I will give a solid effort in making it easier for those new to building these vehicles. 8.6" 10 bolt Auburn Standard Limited Slip: 542097 Auburn Pro Series: 542052 Auburn Ected Max: 545004 Detroit Locker: 187C148A Detroit TrueTrac: 913A481 Eaton Posi: 19559-010 Eaton E-Locker: 19659-010 Yukon Dura-Grip: 26016 Yukon Spool: 32193 Yukon Aluminum Diff Cover (Girdle Style): 32121 Yukon Main Cap Stud Kit: 32271 Yukon Ring and Pinion Kits: 2.73 Gear: 24490 3.08 Gear: 24492 3.23 Gear: 24493 3.42 Gear: 24157 3.73 Gear: 24158 3.90 Gear: 24159 4.11 Gear: 24160 4.56 Gear: 24161 4.88 Gear: 24162 5.13 Gear: 24163 9.5" 14 Bolt Auburn Standard Limited Slip: 542087 Detroit Locker: 225C135A Detroit TrueTrac: 914A538 Eaton Posi: 19590-010 Eaton E-Locker: 19684-010 9.75" Dana 60 Quadrasteer Yukon Zip Locker: 34022 Yukon Zip Locker Competition version: 34035 10.5" 14 Bolt 4.10 gear and down Detroit Locker: 225S10 Eaton Posi: 19689-010 10.5" 14 Bolt 4.56 gear and up Detroit Locker: 225S10 Eaton Posi: 19610-010 11.5" AAM Coming Soon 8.25" 10 Bolt Front Diff Motive Ring and Pinion Kits: 3.42 Gear: G885342IFS 3.73 Gear: G885373IFS 4.11 Gear: G885411IFS 4.30 Gear: GM10-430IFS 4.56 Gear: GM10-456IFS 4.88 Gear: G885488IFS Yukon Ring and Pinion Kits: 3.42 Gear: 24488 3.73 Gear: 24489 4.11 Gear: 24153 4.56 Gear: 24154 4.88 Gear: 24155 5.13 Gear: 24156 9.25"14 Bolt Front Diff Eaton E-Locker: 19622-010 4L60E Coming Soon 4L65E Coming Soon 4L70E Coming Soon 4L80E Coming Soon

The quickest I recall on the 3.3" pulley that should have come with it is 13.4-13.5 without headers and 13.0-13.2 with headers. For your first trip out I'm guessing 13.7 or so in this weather.

In an 07' classic his limitation on a budget is going to be limiting himself to a motor with a 24x reluctor as for crate engines. The 5.3L and 5.3L LS327 by the way is no real gain. If you look at the spec's it is just a newer 5.3L (which is a 325 but called a 327 for advertising reasons). The 6.2L is interchangeable if you know what you're doing. It has a 58x crank reluctor and 4x cam gear which is an issue if you aren't familier with that stuff. You've came to the right place though for advice. Big power in bolt in style is what these trucks do best. What is the budget he's talking about or are we just talking break room pipe dreams? What model is this 07' Classic?

What year is the truck and is it modified in any way. I know you've already diagnosed the problem, but I'm curious.

Congrats on the time. If we could only buy good air... lol We spend tons of money all through the year and it's hard to beat the performance simple good air gives. You'll be chasing a good number the rest of the year now until fall.

I can probably dig up info on that setup. On an all out setup that is about the power range I'd expect to see. I street trim 900FWHP is very doable with the right choice in parts. Cylinder heads and big bore are the biggest difference in making the power. We're doing a 416 at work soon that should make somewhere in the 850-900FWHP range on 91 octane with meth using a TVS. If you want to see the big power and budget isn't the issue you'd want a 427-430, Mast or GM 6 bolt heads flowing 400cfm or more, 2" primary header, proper cam choice and 12psi on E85 will make 900-950FWHP in a daily driver trim.

I wouldn't recomend a turbo kit in general to someone without alot of experience and even more no shops around you to help you out.

I would also say that you are looking into this too much also. Don't look too much into a subject that you don't know enough about what you're even looking at. You went all into this subject and posted it as if nobody knew that header size, primary length, collector type and size, etc. make a difference. Posts like this will only confuse those looking to buy headers or have already bought them and also know nothing about headers. On an all stock LQ9 you wouldn't want any primary size smaller than a 1 3/4" and collector size smaller than 2 1/2. My best example of multiple dyno's with multiple brands of headers and sizes would be the L76 and LS3 motors I've dyno'd using 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" primary sizes (both with 3" collector) the 1 7/8" header will make more hp and torque with no loss down low. I've done many different sets of headers on the Gen III and Gen IV's and unless you're talking a 4.8L that is completely stock there is no point in running a 1 5/8" header. My own 5.3L picked up 35RWHP and 40ft lbs of torque using a 1 3/4" header with a 3" collector. With a 6.0L and up I wouldn't go with anything smaller than a 1 7/8" if budget wasn't an issue and this is from experience of dyno testing 1 5/8", 1 3/4", 1 7/8", 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" stepped, 2", 1 7/8" to 2" stepped, etc. I'm not trying to insult you, but what you learned is that header spec's matter in performance and somehow got the idea that this info means that everyone else's choice just must be wrong. There is a reason almost every set of headers on here is 1 3/4" or 1 7/8" with a 3" collector. It isn't a lack of understanding headers that made people pick bigger tube headers it is simply that they work better on these motors.

You'll want to check the map sensor to make sure it didn't get unplugged or damaged during the install. I would also check the coolant sensor wiring to make sure there isn't an issue there. Low coolant level shouldn't set a p0118 code. It almost seems like you have a burned wire, cut wire, or ground issue.

Not doing any calls tonight. Wife wouldn't be impressed with that. lol