zippy

I agree, I'd do a Corsa Touring. It will flow right up there with every other brand and be alot quieter in the truck. A 2 in 2 out muffler from Gibson isn't going to flow any better than a 3" Corsa. You could do the Corsa Diesel in 4" also.

I'd do the LSxR intake if you're up for the price. Don't be afraid to buy anything that you can use in the future. If you buy the intake now you can use it on the bigger and better build.

That is very odd. The Corsa is always loud under throttle and very quiet at cruise unless you have headers. If you have long tubes never buy he sport, only the touring. If the truck is too loud at cruise something seems very, very wrong.

That's a good price for it. For that money you'll be getting a killer power increase.

Can't beat a 408 for it's driving manners if tuned and built right. The torque difference is impressive. That's what the truck should have came with in the first place.

How are you liking it?

For some reason GM calls it a 327 on their performance site, but it is a 325. You can bore it to a 347, but if you're gonna go through all of that trouble for a few hundred more stroke it to a 383. Adding a 4" stroke and having the big bore done will give you the bigger inches and much bigger torque. The 383's are honestly a very good motor, make great torque, leave room for much improvement, and the only cost difference in building the 5.3L and the 383 is the cost difference in turning your crank to buying a cheap stroker crank (available for 750 or less if you shop around) If you do that with the right cam and heads you won't even see the need for a turbo kit. On top of that with all of the MP112 Radix kits out there for sale used I'd say buy one of those. They aren't the latest and greatest, but you can get 450-500RWHP out of them with much less problems than the STS kit and much less money.

Your list: Big throttle body: find an intake from an 07' up 4.8L or 5.3L and throttle body from a 5.3L. This will be a good gain with the 90mm throttle body and much improved intake manifold. Fuel rail: Upgrade your rails when you do the new intake manifold. If you want them pretty, buy a set of Mast Motorsports black rails and modify them to work on your new intake manifold. You'll want to use an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator also which is great, but make sure you adjust it properly as well as make sure you use the vacuum reference. Injectors: Not really needed unless you really up the power. If you plan to do a cam or blower down the road it is a good idea to swap them when you do the intake manifold. Try to size your injectors to what you're doing with a realistic goal. For help in picking them, post up your other plans or goals. If you don't plan any big power, stay stock or close to stock on injectors. Air cleaner: I'd recomend a simple K&N CAI or GM Performance Parts system. Exhaust straight: I'd recomend a Corsa Touring system. Whether you buy one used or new they are the best quality you can buy. Don't buy a sport system if you are going to be doing headers though as it will be too loud. The touring is just right with headers. Hooker headers long: I'd recomend Pacesetter headers if you are looking for a reasonable price set (make sure they are coated). If you want the most power out of your setup and have a bit more funds available, go for the American Racing 1 7/8" headers. They are the baddest, best flowing, best quality headers made for these trucks. Programmer chip: Just a chip that programs? Throttle body spacing: No, no, no, no, no, no, no... Shift kit: Very good idea. There are a couple of good choices. Check around to see what guys are running and ask how they like what they have.

I assume you're going to do the bumpers, are you going to get the paintable versions from GM or are you going to just have the chrome one's painted? BTW, very good choice on getting the 6.2L. They really fly with a few bolt on's if the tune is good.

For a 19 year old you're building a nice project. Good call on looking for the bigger rear end, but post up the parts you've used in your current rear as you aren't making enough power to kill them yet. With an auto you should be good for 12's easy with the small rear end if you use the correct parts in it. It is looking great though.

It sounds like a great build, but I'd have to wonder what tuner would go after a p0300 code with a cam of that type. That cam has alot of overlap and is on a 112 LSA. If your tune is done right you can check for a missfire by locking the converter 100% and manually select a high load gear which will bring on a missfire if it's there. I would never chase a p0300 code with a cam like that though. I'm not saying you don't have a missfire, but you need to make sure the crank relearn was done and the tune is as complete as possible before you chase a missfire. You have way too much money on that nice of a build to chase that problem. I would also change your plugs. With the compression that high you'll want a colder plug such as a TR6 or if you want to run iridiums, buy the LS9 plugs. (I have the part number written down at work). That is seriously a bad ass build, I hope your tuner will be able to get you all you want out of it. I hope you're gonna run that truck, it is gonna f'ing fly.

You have to have the pipes from headers back custom made. There isn't any bolt on for it. As for the O2's, you don't look for longer wire O2's, look for plug in extensions. Check Speartech or Casper electronics for O2 extensions.

If you can duct them to a cold air intake you may see a very small increase, but in general you won't see anything that a 4" single inlet won't get you. It will however look bad ass. Spectre sells the parts needed to do it. You'll want to go speed density if you do it though. Check out the pic's of the GM's prototype Silverado SS. They are online somewhere. That had a dual 4" inlet system. Cool look overall, just no real gain.

I agree, if you're doing dual exhaust 2 1/2" that will be more than enough. Even for single exhaust 2 1/2" isn't going to kill it over a 3" much unless you're really moving some air. I've dyno'd the differences and you'd be surprised at what point it's actually a difference when you have a free flowing muffler. Header primary size is always a noticable difference, but header back size isn't as much of a difference. In the older days it was because mufflers didn't flow for crap and bigger was certainly better at that point. As an example a 6.0L with a tvs2300 with cam, headers, and 10psi of boost I was working with on the dyno made somewhere around 600RWHP (can't remember exactly anymore). The difference between the full exhaust with 2 1/2" mufflers and 3" full exhaust with mufflers was 2rwhp.

My guess would be that your converter and his are built very similarly. Remember that he has a 408 with 10.3:1 compression. Leaving the boost out of the story his makes way more torque than yours and I can tell you from first hand experience that the torque difference between the 408 and 370 makes getting that much weight rolling massively different. To further go on this Adam can describe the difference between his low compression 408 and his current 408. This is part of the reason I stress the highest compression longest stroke motor you can get when you build one. You've probably forgotten how the stock truck drove, but the stock converter with the stock torqueless 364 feels like it requires alot of throttle to get moving. Greg, you next for big dog power? You're finally going to be getting to use the nice 408 inch motor you built with some real boost at it. I remember recomending the bigger inches for you when you built it and I hope you felt it was worth it. It's so nice to have that much power even when you're not in boost.

If you're regulator isn't leaking on the vacuum side all you need to do is see what your pressure is during cranking. If it's over 40 during cranking you need to look at other possibilities. Run it on a scanner and check your cam/crank signals, map sensor readings, maf sensor, etc.

I have to send you another config file. For some reason the first one isn't what's being logged with again. I'll get you a 2 bar logging config again. Do the track's in Texas close during the winter at all?

Congrats... 10's next year. Just fixing the torque out of the hole alone will get you low 11's on your current setup. Low 11's on stock long block will be amazing. I'm curious, how much are you paying for E85 out by you?

Congrats. I think even pullied back to 12psi you should be able to run 11.7's tuned in. This weekend I'm moving, but will be on the computer as much as possible to get these trucks dialed in.

Finally got it done and running. I'll post up the rest of the build info soon. I absolutely love it and have plans to upgrade it more in the spring. In the process the black truck is getting one next. Dyno numbers and track times also coming.

Lets look at the obvious, running 16's you shouldn't be maxed on IDC since you aren't making any power. Assuming everything is mechanically correct there is only one thing to point at. Honestly your best next purchase would be HP Tuners so you can log and load tunes to fix the problem you're having and keep everything working correctly. Even in 90 degree F weather at 1700ft altitude a stock SSS should have been able to pull those times. The mods you have in cool weather should be mid to high 13's on the 22's and low 14's to mid 14's in horrible crappy weather. You really need to find the source of the problem since something is seriously wrong.

I think the 65E could handle it, but at this torque level you'd be more nervous of it breaking at every track outing. I would recomend the re-gearing of it as the 3.06 first gear will cause traction problems at that torque level. The fuel pressure issue is an issue with his fuel system and no baffling. He'll have that fixed over the winter, until then more fuel in the tank on raceday will be a bandaid. Something is causing a volume issue the rest of the track after the launch, but that will also be fixed. The 3400 is right about where the launch needs to be with this setup. With an 80E you need to get closer torque peak to get a good launch. The Circle D converters have been great in the 65's, but not that great in 80E's. They also have been great in N/A trucks, but not so much in supercharged trucks. I like them, but not for this application. As for the intercooler, one step at a time...

HIs conveter on the drag radials is flashing from dead idle to about 3400 which is about perfect. His Circle D was supposed to be a 2600 or so an flashed to 4k or so and was looser than a good whore. The Vigilante is as tight as they could get it without going to diesel specs and it's awesome. To get 10's he'll need a 60' in the 1.5's which will come as soon as the fuel pressure is fixed. Once his fuel pressure is taken care of I expect a 10.9 to 11.2 pass to happen. Keep in mind this is only using the 3.2" front pulley. The IAT's still climb 50 degrees during the run, but alot of air is moving through. At stock weight with the fuel pressure fixed he'd already have a 10.9 pass. I still hold to this day that this is my opinion of the best setup in an SSS. It seriously idles and drives great with it's small cam, tight converter, and very big torque even when not in boost as it is a 408 with 10.3:1 compression.

I would recomend changing the reluctor on the crank and cam to do the conversion. You do the have option of using the Lingenfelter 58x conversion box so you don't have to change the reluctors, but that's just one more thing to fail. Other than that use a Casper or Speartech knock sensor/cam sensor conversion harness and you're good to go.

Aside from all of the bickering before I even go into that, where in the hell did you hear that the LS6 intake was a direct fit? It's most certainly not a direct fit. As has been said it doesn't clear the water pump and creates a few other issue's already mentioned. Bolting to the heads doesn't make it a direct fit. So again I ask where did you hear that the LS6 intake was a direct fit? I will tell you from experience though that the LS6 intake on a truck makes the motor look tiny. If it's not some cool Fast intake, it's not worth it. As for the Fast vs. truck intake you'd have to test ported vs. ported. The new LS3 port Fast intakes are a joke on the bigger motors unless you port them and use the 102mm throttle body. The difference between stock intake and an unported fast is almost nothing. Port the Fast and there is a big difference. Now is it worth the money over a stock L92 truck intake, tough call. I would look for an intake from an 07' up 4.8L or 5.3L as they are readily available and cheap from guys who did blower swaps. They flow as good as the TBSS intake since they are based on the same design and really look pretty good. Cut some of the un-needed crap off of it, sand it, and paint it and it'll look damn nice as well as fit a 90mm LS3 throttle body. That intake will make more power than the LS6 intake, takes almost no conversion work in comparison to install, and looks better in a truck bay.