zippy

The smallest wheel that will fit over the brakes without grinding is a 16" wheel.

That doesn't make any sense since tuning is performed in open loop. Good to hear you have the problem worked out.

I agree that you can dyno it without the front shaft. As they said, stay off the brakes when you have it stopped. Touch the pedal enough to move the shifter and let off as you're pulling it into gear. Stop the tires with it in neutral. I also understand that tuning is part of the eddy current, just don't let him load it too hard for too long. Other than in gear with your foot on the brake the most likely chance of it having an issue is if you get it hot.

Don't you have a square port head though? The LS3 port LSx intake unported will no doubt get beat by an L92 truck intake. Out of the box the LS3 port car intake needs to be ported to make the power which is a shame. Almost everyone that has made the LS3 to Fast LS3 intake has seen little to no power and some in fact have seen a loss except where porting was involved. To have to pay that much for an intake an still have to port it is horrible. As for cathedral ports, the LSxRT intake has shown to be a nice imrpovement over the stock intakes even the 07' up. A Fast LSxRT with a 102mm Nick Williams is about as good as you can get for bolt on and go on a truck and show improvement. For a budget job though nothing can beat the 07' up intake for power increase for the dollar.

Use the stock GM gaskets. They are by far the best and I've never had a set leak. The gaskets that come with headers in almost every single occasion end up leaking.

The GM bolts and nuts work just fine. The ARP's are nice, but header studs really don't have enough stress put on them to need spending that much on them. The ARP's are alot nicer looking I just can't see the gain in spending that much on header studs. I've even seen guys use studs and nuts from a hardware store. The ARP's I would recomend if show look is important or if you plan to have the headers on and off alot. The GM studs and nuts are great for the money and unless you plan to remove your headers alot. They look pretty nice and can be replaced much easier if you lose one or something of that type.

Looks nice, that should make for alot more consistant traction at your power level.

Took the Tahoe out to the track and although the results were horrible, this is part of the process that will make this fun. One thing going to the track tonight confirmed for me, my gov-lock is now just a gov-no-lock. I pulled it out of my 06' at something like 9k miles and it has always worked good for truck duty. It has never failed to lock in the snow, dirt, wet weather, etc. The only time it locks under heavy power now is when I powerbrake it. I checked it this morning with an off idle burnout in the street by my apartment. I'll post that pic tomorrow if I get a chance, but it's close to 300ft long. I should have let up, but there was so much smoke it was hard to tell if it was both or not and I wasn't in the mood to let up. Although the 3.42 gear is perfect for all around use with this motor I plan to go to a 4.10 for some track fun. This motor makes so much torque that even at 7700ft altitude it pulls a 7-8% grade at 1500rpm in overdrive with the converter locked loaed with 1500 pounds extra weight in fuel, passengers, and crap in the back. That wasn't me loading it and not making it downshift, it does this with 31-33% throttle opening only. I logged it on the way back from Michigan a few times with some of that being in the mountains. On the highway at 70mph it runs about 1800rpm currently and although it would be great to keep it that way I won't get the range of number I want. I'm expecting 4 tenths gain in just gear alone. I'm also expecting .5 more out of a good diff that gets both tires pushing. The list of gains coming will be big. I'll post the dyno numbers this week when the tune is close enough. Sometime this week I also plan to get rid of the stock exhaust which is something that running it on the dyno showed to be a huge problem. I expected this, but left it on there for that reason. I want to record the gains of getting rid of the stock muffler at the track and on they dyno. On to the track. Only 4 passes were made so I didn't really get it's best out of it, but I was just there for a starter number. Pass 1: 2.38 60' [email protected] 1/8 [email protected] (side note very proud moment for me. this was my wifes first ever pass driving down the track) Pass 2: 2.520 60' [email protected] 1/8 [email protected] (wifes second pass) Pass 3: I'll have to find this, but was in the 19 second range. lol. Finally I drove and tried to launch it. I had the wife roll into it not knowing how it would come out. The results turned out to be a burnout from the line and once again from about 40mph. I ended up letting up and just cruised on through the traps. Pass 4: 2.422 60' [email protected] 1/8 [email protected] (still had to slowly roll into it off the line, the second it started to spin I let all the way off and rolled back into it again) All runs with with both me and the wife in the vehicle and probably 50lbs of crap in it. I should have stayed to get all I could out of it even with the traction problem, but it was a just a day for fun with the wife and an initial track day. With some minor mods this should actually get well into the 12's. Check build post for more. Planned mods to come: 4.10 gear (replace stock 3.42) Locking type diff (replace gov-lock with a diff that locks) 90mm throttle body and intake from new style truck (replace stock truck intake and throttle body. currently at 6k it's pulling a pretty good vacuum) 3" free flow exhaust (get rid of stock GM catback) CAI (get rid of stock airblox, descreen un-used maf or get rid of it, etc) Possible mods: Install ported heads Thinner head gasket for yet more compression Slightly looser converter. 34" Radiator and e-fans Drag Radials This thing to drive is just amazing. The torque down low is just rediculous. On the dyno without the converer locked it spikes the torque reading to 480+ ever pass. Once I get the time to finish it I'll post up some dyno numbers. For the average guy I have no idea why someone would do a blower. This short block in an SSS with a converter, headers, good intake, 90mm or larger throttle body, exhaust, etc would have no problem running 12's and still drive around more civilized than stock with as good or better milage. As anyone will tell you an n/a motor dialed in and built correctly should be dead reliable without the worries that come with a boosted motor. Even more if you do it yourself it can be done for less than the cost of a blower. One of the things I hope people learn from this build is that a 408 is a reasonable price upgrade that doesn't need everything bolted to it at one time. Most have this picture in their mind that if they build a 408 it needs to have the best heads, intake, headers, etc, etc, etc. Build the shortblock even if you don't have the money for the the heads and other fancy crap. You can swap heads, cams, exhaust, transmissions, etc. in a weekend but you need the good shortblock to bolt it to. A truck like the Silverado SS or in this case a Tahoe is a vehicle with more weight than a 6.0L should have to push around (or in the cas of the Tahoe it came with a 5.3L). Having the 6.7L it pushes this much weight around like it's nothing even with the tall gear and stock converter. I've driven many vehicles with 402's, 403's, 408's, 416's, 427's, etc and they all make whatever they are in feel lightweight thanks to their 4" stroke.

Took the Tahoe out to the track and although the results were horrible, this is part of the process that will make this fun. One thing going to the track tonight confirmed for me, my gov-lock is now just a gov-no-lock. I pulled it out of my 06' at something like 9k miles and it has always worked good for truck duty. It has never failed to lock in the snow, dirt, wet weather, etc. The only time it locks under heavy power now is when I powerbrake it. I checked it this morning with an off idle burnout in the street by my apartment. I'll post that pic tomorrow if I get a chance, but it's close to 300ft long. I should have let up, but there was so much smoke it was hard to tell if it was both or not and I wasn't in the mood to let up. Although the 3.42 gear is perfect for all around use with this motor I plan to go to a 4.10 for some track fun. This motor makes so much torque that even at 7700ft altitude it pulls a 7-8% grade at 1500rpm in overdrive with the converter locked loaed with 1500 pounds extra weight in fuel, passengers, and crap in the back. That wasn't me loading it and not making it downshift, it does this with 31-33% throttle opening only. I logged it on the way back from Michigan a few times with some of that being in the mountains. On the highway at 70mph it runs about 1800rpm currently and although it would be great to keep it that way I won't get the range of number I want. I'm expecting 4 tenths gain in just gear alone. I'm also expecting .5 more out of a good diff that gets both tires pushing. The list of gains coming will be big. I'll post the dyno numbers this week when the tune is close enough. Sometime this week I also plan to get rid of the stock exhaust which is something that running it on the dyno showed to be a huge problem. I expected this, but left it on there for that reason. I want to record the gains of getting rid of the stock muffler at the track and on they dyno. On to the track. Only 4 passes were made so I didn't really get it's best out of it, but I was just there for a starter number. Pass 1: 2.38 60' [email protected] 1/8 [email protected] (side note very proud moment for me. this was my wifes first ever pass driving down the track) Pass 2: 2.520 60' [email protected] 1/8 [email protected] (wifes second pass) Pass 3: I'll have to find this, but was in the 19 second range. lol. Finally I drove and tried to launch it. I had the wife roll into it not knowing how it would come out. The results turned out to be a burnout from the line and once again from about 40mph. I ended up letting up and just cruised on through the traps. Pass 4: 2.422 60' [email protected] 1/8 [email protected] (even walking it out of the hole it spun, I let all the way out and had to roll back into the throttle) All runs with with both me and the wife in the vehicle and probably 50lbs of crap in it. I should have stayed to get all I could out of it even with the traction problem, but it was a just a day for fun with the wife and an initial track day. With some minor mods this should actually get well into the 12's. Check build post for more.

EFI Live is a general point of info. It's like asking if paint will look good on your truck. EFI Live is only as good as the person using it.

Too many threads are posted by people who don't know the correct info themselves. Wrong answers spread like wildfire.

I would recomend making sure you have the nickle plated output shaft on your driveshaft and at a minimum make sure it's lubed. It's common for the output shaft on the rear shaft to stick on take off and when stopping making a cluncking noise like you're hearing. GM had a bulliten for it on the older models.

Depends on your budget, but I'd do a Vigilante if you can swing it. I'm not yet the big fan of the Circle D for trucks that are mostly street driven. The high stall race trucks that are n/a seem to fair well with them, but I haven't seen many happy other than that. The I6 TB converter GM brand or Precision seem to be good for alot of miles and stall to around 2600.

I've done many different brands and for non-GM I have always had good luck with Motive and Yukon. Richmond seem to be strong, but very noisey no matter what.

I like the 2wd part, but a 408 on 15psi of boost in a 2wd shouldn't need nitrous to get there let alone a 125 shot. StrokedoutSS's setup is very mild with a small cam, uses a very common 2.3L blower, stock computer, is AWD, and has no weight reduction. His should have no problem making 10's in the spring and yet that guy has an F.A.S.T. aftermarket computer, is 2wd, has a big name built 408, and even has a 125 shot of nitrous. Chase's truck isn't even in the ball park with this guy. I expect to see Chase make 9's with his setup. Chase's power is on a level that this guy isn't even close to. I'm surprised though that I haven't seen this truck before. If I have, I don't remember it. The choice of a 2005 made it cool since a 2wd for drag racing is better at that power level and just plain cool, look at that launch.

Because of the design the stock Gov-lock is more made for true truck duty than race duty. Anytime you see the truck only spinning one tire, let up asap as it can not only break it, but it will also wear it out very fast. It would recomend the Tru-Trac or Eaton Clutch type limited slip.

That is correct. I figured there was some reason you may want them, but I've never needed them for the install.

I've ran accross this truck a few times and I wonder who on here know's this guy. LSX TV My link

The 102 would be the way to go, but other than Ray I think that would be your only option for putting the 102 on a Radix. The LS2 and LS7 car throttle bodies are the same piece. The LS2 truck version you don't want. Go for an LS3/L76/L99/LS7 or LS2/LS7. Just make sure you are dead on what it came off of. I can get you the part number for one of them as I have one sitting at work last I knew. One of the other members on here had the same problem recently and his was getting so bad it would go into reduced power at times. When it didn't it would lose 20% of throttle opening at high rpm. They get worse with more miles on them. PM me your timing on the meth, I'm curious as to how agressive you'd made it. Are you on a 2 bar yet? I'll help you if I can. As for your times, I think you have the fastest full weight stock wheel time. Krambo can confirm that also.

If you check your tps readings you'll find that the 87mm will be closing at high rpm. The only 87mm throttle bodies that have the ability to handle that much airflow are the one's from the LSA and LS9. The truck version has a weak motor and can't handle it.

If you have an SS Silverado it came with a 65E from the factory. Whether it still has that in there may be in question, but they were all built with 65E's. You won't find one SSS that doesn't have the M32 rpo for the 4L65E in it's rpo list. There are some out there that have been changed to 60E's, 70E's, and 80E's, but all were factory built with 65E's.

A burnout is good to clean the tires and mildly heat them, trust me I've ran about every brand of street tire. Bringing the converter to 3000 however isn't going to help getting it to hook. Go off idle, especially when you have a traction problem. What converter did you do? What tires are you going to buy?

Damn nice improvement.

What throttle body are you running?

Very nice, that's getting it done. If I get ambitious I'll be challenging that time soon with my wife's Tahoe. Your setup looks very good btw, love the black with the SSS wheels.