zippy

He really has me lost also, 355 stroker???

What all you would need with the TVS1900...I would recomend getting a 3.0" pulley, use the injectors that come with it or buy some 60lb hr tall siemens deka injectors, J-Tube isn't used on the newer TVS1900 and I wouldn't buy the old one, and as for throttle body I'd go for an LS2/LS7 car throttle body with x-link or 102mm throttle body. Those heads btw will work excellent on a 5.3L with a blower as long as you make sure they keep the cc of the chambers tight. As for that camshaft I'm not familier with the overlap of that cam, but the specs look reasonable for a blower cam.

I'll go through my files, I know I have the latest. If not when I get some time I can download it from GM.

Yeah, it can be made to work. It's not a direct bolt in and go.

I don't think they have ran a 10 with it yet, but I could see it going 10's. It will take what i'd guess at 26psi of boost with a 15psi or so launch to run a high 10. This means that the motor will be on edge and won't live long. The 4.8L has a short stroke, but a nice long rod does help the power. With the right cam and that big of a turbo shift points would likely be in the 7200-7800 range as of course you'd need to make the power to go 10's. Quik has made over 700rwhp with his 4.8L using the same idea's. It's fun stuff to do if you don't mind replacing the motor on occasion since even the slightest mistake will take it out. My buddy TJ at one time had an S10 with the stock 2.2L running 26-28psi and it held up just fine. It took out one motor with the timing chain breaking, one from sucking up water, and I think a third from a piston mishap, but that one I can't remember for sure. He now has an aluminum 5.3L powered S10. He'd also found the limits to the LQ9 in a GTO (yes TJ put the LQ9 in there) at 26+psi where the rod just becomes shorter. With the stock longblock except valve springs and camshaft the GTO ran 9's and made something like 850RWHP. The edge is fun to be on if you don't mind changing motors. lol

I'd do a 90mm throttle body like an LS3 or LS2. For that you can get the inlet from Magnacharger and the throttle body from Ebay or a GM dealer. You may want to consider having a custom inlet made an have a 102mm plate welded on your stock inlet and use a 102mm throttle body. For that I'd use a Nick Williams. At your power level that would be a great throttle body for the application. You will also need an X-Link to make it all work correctly.

Yeah, ummmmmm I'd change tuners.

I assume you have the Supercharged 5.3L version?

I agree with the injector thing, I never recomend a drilled injector. For the money you can't beat upgrading to the L59 injectors which are a direct bolt in for a truck other than changing the connector. They are just over 35lbhr at 58psi and easily to find. Get a set of them, send them out for cleaning and flow testing, and install.

If you do a turbo I would still do a 408. The cost difference between the 370 and 408 is pretty much only the cost of the crank. Your still looking at buying rods assuming you don't want to run stock rods, pistons, machine work, etc. Spend the small difference in the crank and you get alot more power when not in boost, more power at less boost, and much quicker spool times. A build like that isn't about what it is capable of, hell a 4.8L can make enough power to get an SSS into the low 11's with enough boost and still drive on the street. Another thing to consider is that at the track spool time really isn't going to matter since you'll launch in boost anyway, however on the street you will see a difference. A 408 with an 88mm turbo will run 10's and drive around town almost like stock if you pick your parts right. As for the Magnacharger your biggest cost is the blower. Between buying the blower, injectors, spacer, throttle body, throttle body inlet, and 8 rib kit you're talking 10 grand. Doing anything over 408 inch's will give you a small return for the money with that blower. The difference between the 427 and a 408 is small for the money. You can build a 408 for about half as much as a 427 and make within I'd say 30hp or so of the big motor. The big bore of the 427 helps in head flow and head choices, but I wouldn't say it's worth the cost. The choices are really more a style difference. A turbo setup with all the fixing's will near 10k by the time you're done with it with intercooler, turbo, piping, hoses, labor, etc, etc. Both engines will run near the same price if you build them right.

I understand your desire with the cam issue. With the intake and a good set of heads you won't need much camshaft to get the job done. Obviously I would recomend doing the bigger throttle body down the road, but you really are on a good path toward big power with excellent drivability. Have you picked your heads yet?

Good to see you back on here. It's a shame things didn't work out, but you did make a great kid it looks like. I've moved to Phoenix and still come on here. I'm mostly moderating on here more than posting though. You still in Vegas?

I don't think you're going to need it. The biggest problem that forces that to be used is when you don't go through the radiator as well. If you run the tubes in the stock form which does the auxillary cooler and the cooler in the radiator you'll be fine. Keep in mind though not to drive it hard either way when it is cold. Even on those trucks that are all stock I never recomend driving them hard until you have the trans temps over 100 degrees which in cold weather is usually about the time the thermostat opens on the engine.

I agree that it is likely the 3-4 clutches wiped out. It's a shame with yours shawnss, I think yours were mostly killed from tuning rather than power. As you've seen on here, 12's isn't that hard to get a 65E to hold up to. A truck with good tuning and a stock trans will outlast a truck with a built trans and poor tuning.

Right now my compression is about 12.2:1. I'd like to bring it to 12.7:1. I am running E85, but it is designed to be run on both. With a #7 heat range plug and good tuning you can run 12.5:1 compression without problems on 91-94 octane.

I normally use the stock GM bolts also. The studs make it very nice and have less of a chance of breaking off in the cylinder head. It also holds the gasket when you put the headers on. Even with all of that, I still use the stock bolts and ONLY GM GASKETS for the headers.

Give me a call if you get time. I'm willing to help.

Very nice to hear though that it has worked out really. I'd bet with that setup it's a pretty torquey setup. Nice street setup for sure.

Have you been to the track yet? Just curious. It looks like you're building a nice race truck.

Right now my black truck has BLKSTIG. I had FASTTRK on it and before that RUNS13S. The Tahoe had NTSTOCK and I'm going to order a new vanity plate for it next month for my AZ plate.

Gonna go over this list this week and catch it all up.

Really??? Do explain...

I like to help anytime I can. I don't want it to sound like a bash on the tuner, but some things just didn't add up is all. I'm happy to see you're making some power and happy with it now.

I would check inner tie rods, ball joints, and stabilizer shaft end links.

It actually works very well. The biggest gain in this over clutch types is simply that you can run synthetic fluid in it. The less expenive clutch types also work great, but the tru-trac is very nice and a great choice.