zippy

Sorry to hear about the broken motor. I would really look into a tuning problem though after a second motor failure. A 12.5 really indictates that you aren't pushing it hard at all and certainly shouldn't be anywhere near the point of killing a piston.

The same rule applies since the beginning of this post. I'm not sure where posting or pm'ing for paypal came into this. If you want one send an e-mail to [email protected]. This is where Lindsey is taking the orders from and keeping track of them. There is a small number left, but either way that is the system for them. I am going to check back in Michigan to see if I have the other box of them. They are numbered with the quantity actually produced. I believe it was 1500.

Are you going to do a big stall to work with a big cam? Going with a big cam requires everything else work or all you get is the sound. If you don't do a different head at least do better intake with a 90mm or 102mm throttle body. You're also going to want to up the compression if you go that big on a camshaft.

That's all from the GMPP catalog

When it comes to a stock converter with that cam it will really be a matter of finding the sweet spot. Try a run leaving from idle, 1200rpm and one holding it back at wide open or as close to it as you can get it. I'm guessing idle or 1200rpm will be your best launch.

Sometime this week.

It's assembled short of the oil pan. Planning to put it in the truck this weekend.

I certainly remember the GN as well as the Turbo TA, Syclone, and Typhoon. Even the GN that you speak of is a great example. First though I have never seen a GN weigh in at 4400 with driver, that I'd like to see. Pump gas with 19psi and a track time like that also seems out there unless you're hosing the meth with a garden hose. Lets talk the real world with that GN, it takes you 19psi of boost on what I'm guessing is a well dialed car to run that number where as an LS1 with 19psi done right would be less money and way faster. Even more, run that car down the track off idle without a boost launch. There really isn't a motor I haven't liked with boost, but the small motors that make high boost are like light switches. No power until you're in boost and once boost comes on you don't want to lift because if you get out of boost you have to wait for it again. I remember watching GN's at the track running high 14's to low 15's even modified from people who don't know how to boost launch them. That is driver error, but also just plain a turd when not in boost. I love what the GN represents, a beautifull car, an actual buick engine, and technology that was ahead of it's time. The GN will go down as one of GM's most beautifull cars. I've worked on about every version of GM performance car/truck and even some odd ball. One of my friends built a turbo kit for his 2.2L 4 cylinder S10. He ran it as high as 26psi of boost. At 26psi it was alot of fun to beat someone and tell them you just got beat by a 4 cylinder truck, but it had no passing/driveability power when not in boost, had a severly shortened life, and for the money it cost to build one you could do a 4.8L that would have killed it. If the idea is to just build something different a 4.3L turbo would be cool in that truck. You could make it fairly quick, but for the money a 6.0L has way more potential and can be used as a truck.

I'm not sure there is a kind of forum name for this other than a truck/Silverado SS related forum. Now if your point is to be upset and point it out, make sure your post hasn't just been moved or something of that type before you go posting something like this. Another thing is that none of the regular members on here can fix it for you, ask someone in charge what happened and why. You only have 300 posts and have sold alot.... You've had your share of the classifieds. This is not a classifieds type of forum....

It's not so much an attack at the Mustang as it is an attack at the aftermarket. It seems like 25% or so of the SS Camaro's built have had a Magnacharger, Edelbrock, Harrop, or GMPP LS9 blower. All based on the TVS2300 series from Eaton. I know they only picked the LSA because it's a ton cheaper than the LS9, but they should have used the 2.3L blower still. Either way this is GM's way of getting there share of money that others are spending on aftermarket parts to do the same thing. A ton of dealers are doing their own like the Baldwin Motion, Berger, Yenko, etc and they are nothing more than a stock Camaro with a Magnacharger on them with ZL1 pricing or worse. I've seen the ZL1 in person and they really did a nice job with this one other than the fact that it weighs about the same as my truck does. I don't expect to see a Z28 and if they do it's going to be one extreme or another. They will either make a stripped down SS to make the Z28 as they did in the past or put a LS9 in the car completely stripped for GMPP to compete with the V10 Challenger and Cobra Jet Mustang. Right now GM has nothing in that class.

Dyno numbers coming, but the main testing done originally with the TB is a vacuum test. The TVS2300 on the dyno at 5500rpm was pulling 7" of vacuum between the throttle body and the rotor group which is a test of inlet restriction. I will be posting results of my LSX376 project at work with the 102mm throttle body and 1" spacer. I will show power, boost levels, air temps, etc.

Ok guys, they are limited edition as I said and also limited quantity. I am almost out so from here on out feel free to e-mail and we'll let you know if and when we have ran out. I have to check my stuff in Michigan when I get out there to see if I have the other box of 50 still missing. These posters were from GM, limited edition, and numbered. They are not all in perfect condition and since they are from back in around 04' or somewhere in there they are as perfect as I could keep them in the box they came in. Thanks guys. I may be doing a Zippy Performance calander soon for those interested.

I'm selling off most of my poster collection. I'll get some pic's of them on here, but you can see them on the SSS facebook also. Cost for them is $35, 20 for the poster and $15 covers the shipping. If you're interested in them send an e-mail to [email protected].

I agree that it is far from cost effective. You could do a 6.0L with stock 243 heads or stock L92 heads and a mild cam which would make the same or more power on pump gas as a turbo'd 4.3L. To do a turbo 4.3L right you need a marine intake, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, intercooler, wastegate, blow off valve, etc. The stock 4.3L intake you'll want to remove and replace with the marine version and then install a set of 60lb hr injectors. On pump gas I wouldn't run the 4.3L over 10psi and even with a cam and ported heads you'd only be expecting the 350RWHP range. Add meth to that and you may make 400RWHP, but you'll be pushing it. You also won't have a workhorse on your hands like you would by putting in a V8. The 4.3L makes for a great work truck if you don't load it heavy. If you load it heavy you have to run it hard just to get enough power out of it to do the job. Put a turbo on there and you'll end up in boost constantly and that just doesn't hold up. That's part of the reason the SyTy's had no load capacity and warnings of no towing. Towing while in boost with a gas motor just doesn't work out well. EGT's climb so fast on a gas motor that very quickly overheating becomes an issue, melting parts because an issue, and detonation. If you want to put in forged pistons, oil cooler, piston oil squirters, liquid to air intercooler, 2 bar tuning, methanol injection, etc you can work the truck hard while in boost. I just don't recomend doing a turbo on the 4.3L because after you spend all the money you'll seriously end up with a truck that is different, but really has lost alot of it's truck work ability and is no faster than a 5.3L with a cam and bolt on's. Putting a turbo on a 4.3L is not cheap once you add it all up.

The IAT trick works very well if you have a good tuner and know how to wire it. As for the dual tune with tow/haul mode comment, you're not helping when you comment like that. We don't need mis-information confusing newbies. Other than the IAT trick I would recomend having timing pulled full time. Run race fuel when you spray and you won't have to pull as much timing.

You'll be fine with a 26" tire. I would go for something with some good size to it yet like a 275/40R17or the more common 275/50R17.

The 102mm throttle body is really a big deal when it's on the inlet side especially on something moving this much air. Ray has done a great job with this. Ray and I spoke of this a couple years ago, but until recently it was nothing more than a great idea. Ray has put it into motion with getting the inlets done. I am also using one at work on a 1970 El Camino project with an LSX 376 with a TVS2300 jackshaft version. The difference is that I used the Nick Williams 102mm on that car. It is a better looking unit than the TPIS version, but it is larger and doesn't yet work on the trucks. We have a TVS2300 front inlet/front drive and I'm going to eyeball that one for a 102mm also. There is more to come in spacer revisions as well as inlet revisions. Magnacharger/Eaton makes a very good unit and I as well as Ray feel that there is still a bit more left in this unit. His spacer not only reduces the operating temperature of the blower, but has made a noticable difference in getting the intercooler off of the floor. I have the logs to show the difference in track, street, idling, etc. I feel that on an all stock motor at low boost the intercooler being so close to the floor of the intake is just fine. As cubic inch and airflow is upped there is a noticable gain in getting that sharp turn and high pressure area removed. The logs and Ray's dyno testing of the spacer more than speak for itself. I have the logs for the 102mm throttle body and there is a noticable gain in efficiency, boost, and throttle response. There is also a dyno sheet with a vacuum reading from behind the throttle body with the 90mm to show just how much restriction is being had between the rotors of the blower and the throttle body. Ray can chime in with this info and the dyno info of the spacer, but all of this is just showing that being open to idea's and engineering leaves room for improvement always. Right with Adam I give credit to Ray for putting this stuff on the machine bench and making stuff. The goal with Adams truck is the quickest and fastest Magnacharged Silverado without nitrous or meth.

See if you can get a video of this occuring, even if it's just on a cell phone. With this condition and no real knowledge on your end it makes this very difficult to figure out.

There are many things to look at, but first would be a tune issue. If you haven't got that dialed yet the pcm can incorrectly think there is a missfire condition occuring which will cause a few issue's. One of those issue's would be that the tcc will not be locked. This will create more heat in the transmission as well as the engine. Since you have an 04' I'm assuming you have the clutch fan still which will not fully engage at a low temperature anyway and will cause the engine to run warmer, but not overheat.

Give me a call if you'd like and I'll give you the number for my source. Many on here have bought from him when I couldn't take care of them and he will give you great pricing and I can give you part numbers.

I would look at the u-joints on the front driveshaft. I've replaced those many times on trucks driven in the weather conditions that you drive yours in. Another issue is the inner tie rod ends. They tend to wear out fairly quickly if you are doing 4x4 launch's with them. I'd look into buying an upgraded set of them if you suspect they are getting worn. Look into places that sell performance parts for the Duramax trucks. Cognito, Fabtech, and PPE make nice replacements.

I certainly recomend doing a full shift kit rather than just the servo's. The servo's alone with good tuning will help a ton, but the full shift kit if done properly along with good tuning will lower trans temps and just overall give you a longer trans life.

I'd like to meet up with you when I'm in Michigan and run Tahoe's. I'll be interested in seeing how my Hoe does against a boosted one. I won't have time to port the heads and I won't have the cam in there yet that I want, but it should still run well. You did a nice job with yours, it looks much nicer than mine.

Just by bolting those heads on you'll be around 10.8:1 or so. If you do anything go with a Cometic .040 head gasket, but I'm not sure I would do that even. 91 octane isn't much to run that compression on unless you have very good tuning. With good tuning you will see a very noticable gain in power from the compression, but without it you'll have alot of detonation and will see no more power at all.

I would certainly go for those heads. If you can get them at a reasonable price they will offer a very nice performance gain even with the stock cam. Keep in mind that you will need to change the intake manifold also. Down the road you'll really want to make sure camshaft choice reflects the heads you've bought though.