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perk03z06

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Posts posted by perk03z06

  1. once you get her to the lookout point, start taking pictures and ask her to do a model pose, then click on her face, then alternate between clicking her body and face and then when she gets on her knees say "oh that feels good" and badda bing.

     

    When you try this ... you get 2 options ... do her in the Jeep, or get a BJ ... both were GREAT! (Like I was actually there ... :banghead:) ... :jester:

  2. I got her on the couch!!! ... and got a 10! :thumbs:

     

    1. Play Music: Jazz

    2. Kiss on Lips while dancing

    3. Stop Dancing & Go Somewhere Else

    4. Click on the Jeep - Go Out for Dinner

    5. She changes - Wait in Hallway

    6. Go to the Bistro

    7. Click on Menu

    8. Click once on dinner plate

    9. Compliment Her

    10. Talk to Her

    11. Drink Wine

    12. Get the Check

    13. Go to Art Exhibit

    14. 1st is Renoir

    15. 2nd is Durer

    16. 3rd is Rembrandt

    17. Head Back Home

    18. Dress Casual

    19. Wait in Hallway

    20. Go Someplace Else - Livingroom

    21. When she asks about making out ... click drink wine.

    22. Kiss her

    23. Drink Wine

    24. Kiss Again

    25. Massage Shoulders

    26. Drink Wine

    27. Rub Boobs

    28. Put pointer over a nipple - "Take off her Shirt"

    29. Put pointer over a nipple - "Kiss Her Nipples"

    30. Give Back Rub

    31. Take Off Pants

    32. Massage her Thigh

    33. Take Off Panties

    34. Get it On

  3. i think that might be part of my problem ive got something wired wrong. im pretty familiar with ohms law, however i really never deal with the wattage part of the equation, at least in an audio sense. i dont understand how you say 1 ohm of resistance is twice as much as 4?? if it takes one amp to push one ohm of resistance per ohms law, how could one ohm be twice as much as four? im not being a dick, im just seriously confused with this system, ive never had this much trouble. the way you say to have the subs wired is how?? really quick heres what ive got and how its wired, ive got

     

    a 4 channel amp. ive got it set up so its 2 channels bridged, positive on channel one negative on channel two, positive on three, negative on four....thats set up correctly for bridged out put, right? either that or it could be +1 -3 +2 -4, im not sure but as far as the amp is concerned i have it set up per their instructions. now on the subs, ive got a set of +/- on either side of the sub, with a jumper across from one positive to the other negative, then out of the amp ive got a positive to the remaining positive, and a negative to the remaining negative. is this correct? this is confusing the shit out of me, i could put up pix if that might help.

     

    ALSO..........what is the benefit of dvc???

    ALSO......... should i stuff my box?? LOL that sounds diirrrrty :)

     

    Can you post a schematic?

  4. What's even more cool is being the first AWD ex cab in the 10s.

     

    Mr. P. :)

     

    :withstupid:

     

    even if they beat chase hell just get a flux capacitor and be in the 9's first

     

    I'll sell one to ya chase ... cheap! (It's got a leak, though) :jester:

  5. i think part of the problem is that the amp gives me between 4-8 ohms tolerance for subs, and when i have it wired for dual voice coils that puts me at like 12 ohms. so i disconnected the one side and just wired it pos/neg, which should put the sub at 6 ohms, and noticed no change in sound. i cant get any real bottom end out of this system, it sounds SORT of good, but not how it should, this amp is 400x2 bridged....that should be more than plenty to shake my truck apart but its got NO low end. help?

     

    When you're wired for 4-8 ohms for the subs ... you should get 4, or 2 or 1 ohms resistance, if you wired correctly. If your subs rated 4-8 (dual voice), then wire your subs 2-4. For the most part, wiring a single dual voice coil sub is like wiring 2 subs in one. 2 voice coils = twice the resistance, so a 4 ohm circuit should really measure 1 ohm of resistance. (1 ohm is twice as much as 4. 4x2 = 1 ... weird math, I know. But, google ohms law and it'll make sense, or check it out here)

  6. the type of box that perk is talking about is a bandpass box...you definitely dont have enough room to build a proper bandpass box for the subs. as far as sealed vs. ported i will venture to say this: sealed generally allows for more power handling than a ported box but also lacks output compared to the ported. a properly built ported box will sound just as good sq wise as a sealed box. in my opinion, ported is the way to go but everyone has their own opinion on the subject. ported can hit just as hard, loud, low, and accurately as sealed provided it was designed and built correctly. either way you choose, definitely make sure you build a solid box. caulk the joints, use lots of wood glue, screws every 6 inches or so, and bracing if needed. good luck with your build man and let us know how it comes out.

     

    Nick

     

    I definitely agree w/ mastergun ... but I've never seen a ported box hit harder than a sealed box. (Ported offers more "flex" than sealed does ... once a sealed sub hits, the vacuum from the sealed enclosure draws the voice coil closer to the magent quicker, and gets the sub ready for the next "hit") Could just be the experiences I've had ... possibly mastergun knows more about box building than I do ... :dunno::jester:

     

    When I built a box for my buddy's 12" Soundstream's ... they needed 1cu. ft. of air behind them, and 750 watts RMS, 1000 Peak. We built a sealed box to those specs ... and man, did they hit ... HARD. It felt like someone was punching you in the chest. (They were dual voice coil subs, though) Nonetheless, my buddy overheated them about a month later, and rolled his car not long after that ... so ... it ended up being a lost cause. But ... his system sounded wicked! :thumbs:

  7. hey man i would suggest working on your front stage mainly and using rear fill if and only if you must. all adding better speakers in the rear with the stockers will do is 1: mess up your imaging, pulling the sound to the rear of the truck and down and 2: not sound that great with the difference in power along with positioning of the speakers odds are, they will be louder than stock. again, i would put in a good component set up front, amp them, and use all the area in the rear to build a nice ported enclosure for the 12s if you can spare the room or a nice sealed box with amp rack or something of the like. good luck though man

     

    Nick

     

     

    :withstupid: Couldn't agree more. You're going to either muddy the SQ or diminish the bass volume doing this, you will be introducing waves almost 180-degrees out of phase to the woofers. Fire everything you can off the rear wall of the truck, and dynomat the hell out of the rear wall while you're at it.

     

    Mr. P.

     

    :withstupid: I agree with the guys here ... as far as a sealed or ported box for the subs ...

     

    If you put the subs inside the box, make sure you design the box to the air tolerances of the sub. IE - If the sub calls for 1 cu. ft. of air behind it ... make sure that chamber is exactly 1 cu. ft. Especially if you decide to go sealed. Sealed boxes with the proper amount of air volume behind the sub will hit very hard ... if that's what you're looking for. If you want to harness the much lower frequencies ... ported is the way to go. And, if you decide to go sealed ... make sure to caulk all the joints and corners inside the box. This will keep the air leaks away ... :thumbs:

     

    I had a real nice Q-Logic box in one of my old cars that was both ported and sealed. (Behind the sub was sealed, and in front of the subs was ported) ... that was a real nice box, and it sounded great.

  8. since you have that elco im surprised your tired of it. ive found that having a variety of fun cars/trucks to drive will make them more fun to drive when you do drive them . when you have the same car or truck for an extended period of time and drive it all the time it does get old. but maybe thats me. also when you have a hooked up ride then you go to a ride thats not so bling it kind of makes you miss the nicer one. ill never sell my truck.

     

    I agree with CHASE. Having a beater definitely makes you appreciate your nice ride when you finally drive it.

     

    However, I am getting bored with the gas pump.

     

    :withstupid: ... no sh*t! I just turned loose of $75 to fill up last week ... that hurt.

     

    No, and I'm not tired of brobradh77's avatar either :)

    :lol: ... I LOVE that avatar ... I wanna find out who that is ... :devil:

  9. With him drivin' a van, it's prolly a good thing you were in your truck ... and nothing smaller.

     

    Buddy of mine in FL just got clobbered by an Explorer going around 50 ... and he was stopped completely when he got hit. He said it pushed his rear bumper in about 4 feet under the truck. Damn good thing he was in his truck & not in the '96 Intrepid he usually drives ... someone would have gotten hurt or killed if he was in that car & got hit by an Explorer going 50 ... :shakehead:

  10. :confused: WTF??? Thats some f*cked up sh*t right there :eek:

    :shakehead: I feel bad for those cats.............

     

     

    Very dumb.

     

     

    I am not a fan of cats, personally I think they are a useless animal. But, why would you own them, and turn around and treat them like that. Very uncalled for..

     

    :withstupid:

     

    That's was probably the dumbest vid I've ever seen ... definitely not getting those 2 minutes of my life back ... :sigh:

     

    This one's much funnier ...

     

    Funny Vid

  11. If you want a light on the dash to come on, (IF the light is even there) you should probably look at programming the IPC module, since that's the module that manage's the IP Cluster's functions.

    What you are trying to do will probably be a 3-part Custom Program. First part would be to modify the IPC to recognize an input coming from the vehicle network (such as Fuel Rail Pressure) and them program the PCM to send the IPC module the Fuel Rail Pressure data. Then, modify the IPC again to switch on/off the "Wait to Start" lamp when the proper conditions are met.

     

    What you're looking to do is somewhat complex if you want it done programatically ... might be easier to hard wire a light to switch on/off once the fuel pressure has reached a target pressure ... JMO.

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