perk03z06
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Posts posted by perk03z06
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Sounds like you live In Virginia....I hate our laws here on stupid shit like that
As for the age descrimination - not true...sold my Cadillac CTS to my dad that I drove for 3 years with 20% tint all the way around and never got pulled. He drove it for a week and got pulled twice...and we have the same commute to work. It just depends on the officer.
It does totally depend on the officer. Especially late summer/early fall when the academy lets out ... then you have a bunch of rookies out trying to make a name for themselves, and they'll stop you for using an aerosol can in a manner other than intended.
I got nailed in NJ when I had my Z28 ... they fined me almost $150 for having black outs on my tails. I tried to fight it ... said I was out of state, didn't know NJ laws, etc. They didn't care. All they wanted was my money. bastards.
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Have you considered putting bags on it to help keep the ass up? That's what I did to mine so when I haul/tow something.
how is that working for you? Do you have an on board compressor, or do you fill w/ air on demand?
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How'd you get burnt?
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This is a real good question ... I too have debated whether or not to do a drop kit, and the one thing that I end up pondering is ... will it effect my payload capabilities?
Just last week I had the bed full with an electric range and dining room table/chairs and hauled it to PA from NC ... the truck was about 1.5-2" lower than usual with that load ... I don't really want to sacrifice payload if I can help it ...
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I'm off the pipe
NICE roll pan ... BSER?
Who shaved your 'gate?
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man ive joined before you and im just now getting to a 1000 holy man i dont spend enough time running my mouth
bitch ...
Welcome to the Club!!!!.... the four bow-ties look good on ya!!!!
thanks!
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Looks like the driver's door module and passenger door modules need to be reprogrammed ... info. below
GM Vehicle Calibration Information - DDM Driver Door Module
VIN: 1GCEK19B36Z272086
Controller: DDM Driver Door Module
Mirror Type: Power Folding (DL3/DR4)
Hardware: 15195317
Calibration History for: Operating system
Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
15883324 000009E2 - Corrects issue of courtesy lamp abnormally staying on - passenger side.
15251168 0000B97F - New software to address mirror positioning problem.
25770606 N/A - Operating system
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Calibration History for: Accessory
Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
15125152 N/A - Accessory
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Calibration History for: Interior Lighting
Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
15195315 N/A - New calibration for start of production
15173759 N/A - Interior Lighting
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GM Vehicle Calibration Information - PDM Passenger Door Module
VIN: 1GCEK19B36Z272086
Controller: PDM Passenger Door Module
Mirror Type: Base/Power Folding (DL8/5M1/DL3/DR4)
Hardware: 15173761
Calibration History for: Operating system
Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
15257789 00007A97 - New software to address mirror positioning problem.
25770607 N/A - Operating system
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Calibration History for: Accessory
Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
15863463 00006835 - New Passenger Door Module calibrations to increase the TPM sensor tolerance from 1.2 to 2.0 psi.
25770609 N/A - Accessory
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Calibration History for: Interior Lighting
Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
15186221 00007863 - New calibration for start of production
15173759 N/A - Interior Lighting
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he was 268 before he started training with the new trainer, and now he is 249. that'll make you a liitle quicker on your feet. it showed in his fight against ray mercer.
I just watched the mercer fight ... you're right ... he did get a little quicker ...
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i think that might be part of my problem ive got something wired wrong. im pretty familiar with ohms law, however i really never deal with the wattage part of the equation, at least in an audio sense. i dont understand how you say 1 ohm of resistance is twice as much as 4?? if it takes one amp to push one ohm of resistance per ohms law, how could one ohm be twice as much as four? im not being a dick, im just seriously confused with this system, ive never had this much trouble. the way you say to have the subs wired is how?? really quick heres what ive got and how its wired, ive got
a 4 channel amp. ive got it set up so its 2 channels bridged, positive on channel one negative on channel two, positive on three, negative on four....thats set up correctly for bridged out put, right? either that or it could be +1 -3 +2 -4, im not sure but as far as the amp is concerned i have it set up per their instructions. now on the subs, ive got a set of +/- on either side of the sub, with a jumper across from one positive to the other negative, then out of the amp ive got a positive to the remaining positive, and a negative to the remaining negative. is this correct? this is confusing the shit out of me, i could put up pix if that might help.
ALSO..........what is the benefit of dvc???
ALSO......... should i stuff my box?? LOL that sounds diirrrrty
Ok ... I THINK I understand how you're wired ... you've got a 4 channel amp bridged down to 2 channels. And it sounds like the amp is wired correctly for bridged output ... I believe the problem is the jumper you have on the subs. The way the subs are wired now, you're only powering them to half capacity. That's probably why they don't sound that good.
DVC subs can be confusing ... I remember the first time I saw one ... I was like ... WTF???
The way you have the subs wired now is referred to as "in series". One + and one - wire going from one amp channel to the sub. To increase the power to them, you would have to wire them "parallel" ... or run 2 sets of wires from the one amp channel to the sub.
This could be dangerous because ... if the sub's voice coils are 6 ohms each, to run them on one bridged channel, you need an amp that will survive at least a 3 ohm load. (Refer to my last post, 6 ohms/2 paths = 3 ohms)
If your amp will only tolerate up to a 4 ohm load, you could blow your amp, and take out the subs with it.
If you have info. on your amp ... it would help. Post the model again ... I googled the model# and found one amp that's good for 1000W and one that's good for 400W ... so, I dunno which one to look at ...
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i think that might be part of my problem ive got something wired wrong. im pretty familiar with ohms law, however i really never deal with the wattage part of the equation, at least in an audio sense. i dont understand how you say 1 ohm of resistance is twice as much as 4?? if it takes one amp to push one ohm of resistance per ohms law, how could one ohm be twice as much as four? im not being a dick, im just seriously confused with this system, ive never had this much trouble. the way you say to have the subs wired is how?? really quick heres what ive got and how its wired, ive got
a 4 channel amp. ive got it set up so its 2 channels bridged, positive on channel one negative on channel two, positive on three, negative on four....thats set up correctly for bridged out put, right? either that or it could be +1 -3 +2 -4, im not sure but as far as the amp is concerned i have it set up per their instructions. now on the subs, ive got a set of +/- on either side of the sub, with a jumper across from one positive to the other negative, then out of the amp ive got a positive to the remaining positive, and a negative to the remaining negative. is this correct? this is confusing the shit out of me, i could put up pix if that might help.
ALSO..........what is the benefit of dvc???
ALSO......... should i stuff my box?? LOL that sounds diirrrrty
Don't recall if you ever got this straightened out ... and going back and reading it, I see where I typed it to sound confusing ... sorry ... let me try again ...
Having a DVC sub is like having 2 subs in one. Lets use a mono amplifier as an example. It only has 1 channel. If that channel is rated 200 Watts at 4 ohms, then 200 watts is the potential that the amp can put out through 1 path (1 speaker). If the amp is stable to 2 ohms resistance, you can effectively double your power output of the amplifier by connecting 2 4-ohm subs (wired parallel, not in series), or a 1 DVC sub. The reason that the power output doubles is because there's 2 paths for the current to follow, each 4 ohms, and the amplifier doubles current output (Watts) as if there was only 2 ohms of resistance.
Think of it like a water tower ... the amount of water stored is the tower's "potential", waiting to be released to the ground. If you have water moving through a 4-inch pipe, only a certain volume will flow to ground. If you connect another 4" pipe to the tank, a higher volume of water will flow ... but the resistance of each pipe (4 inch) remains the same.
I think where I typed it confusing was when I tried to explain how you get current flow equivalent to a 1 ohm load by doubling the paths that current could flow through ... (I think I was drunk that night ... note to self: don't post until the room stops spinning ...
... sorry 
)So ... if your single channel amp has a power rating of 400 Watts @ 4 ohms, and you provide 2 paths for current to flow (2 single voice coil subs or 1 dual voice coil) you're tricking the amp into thinking there's only 2 ohms of resistance. (4 ohms/2 paths = 2 ohms) If you do this, you've doubled the current flow from 400 Watts to 800 Watts. (400 Watts x 2 paths = 800 Watts) Using a DVC sub in this example is better because all 800 Watts go to 1 sub. Using 2 single voice coil subs, the 800 Watts is split between 2 subs.
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I've seen most of his internet fights ... a beast he is indeed.
I imagine that he'd be even more dangerous if he could get a little quicker on his feet ...
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You can always just do what i did and make your own.
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what does LS1 stand for I know what it is but what does it stand for?
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Surprised he didn't do the Q-Tip ...
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Finally a member of the 1000 post club ...
Now ... I just got work on getting into the mile-high club ...
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so when are ya gonna start handing out the happy endings?
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Bad boys, Bad boys ... whatcha gonna do ...
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I understood it ... but never have seen it. Those are some nice pics ... pretty cool
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I dunno about the rest of you guys ... but when I talk and drive, the conversation is priority #2 ... especially when driving in the city.
I've been in a few conversations where I asked someone to hold on or let me call them back because traffic was getting out of control.
I hope no bans come to the east coast. I work via. my phone. Can't afford to have it off anytime ...
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I get a knocking sound for 1/2 a second when I start the engine. Kinda sounds like a diesel eingine. Seems like it has always done that. I don't get any shaking, though. Shaking sounds like a cylinder is missing. Perhaps one of your injectors is not working properly?
Shaking usually means misfiring.
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Sorry to hear that and I hope they have a speedy recovery and I hope they learned their actions can have devistating consequences.
Especially riding a bike ... I don't ride but I've had many people who do tell me that the street is no place for racing ... obstacles in or on the road, pavement conditions, etc. Racing is for the track ...
Best wishes to a safe recovery for them. Hope they're doing well.
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I see your nuts ...
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Windows are module controlled ... possible the fuse that powers up the module blew ...
Do you have power fold mirrors? Do they still fold?
Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but aren't all the windows on the same fused circuit? How about a bad window relay?No ... the windows are controlled individually ... by seperate computer modules, driver's side and passenger side.
There's a driver's door module that controls the driver's window and a passenger door module that controls the passenger side.
There might be relays ... dunno ... I don't know where I can get a diagram of the circuit ...
Truck's Giving Me Attitude
in General SS
Posted
How's your incoming air? Clean filter? Clean MAF sensor? I usually check incoming air when I start to get short stumbles like that and it's usually something in the airbox, or the MAF is dirty ...