Quik

you can easily out run those cars. it can get to point your looking for exotics to beat. money talks rest watch

thanks man

its a T56, so i converted it

GM they are in the performance parts catelog

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Quiks-t...rado_648580.htm

you want to shift 200 - 300 rpms past peak power or where power falls off. this will allow you to come back into the vehicles powerband. as for crossing trps you should idealy be going thru traps at peak power. this is where tire and gear selection ocme into play. just remember as mods grow and so does power your final drive ratio might change according to new combo

well when is the last time you actually noticed something spec'd right? tire size are spec'd to a number but if you measure it with tape it doesnt measure up. they list the TBs as 78mm. they arent just referring to the blade its like most men they measure from the ball sack to help their manstick measure up....just another way of fudging numbers.

truck mafs are 85mm. they are the same exact MAF as SLP sells that is listed as 85mm. remove the sticker on the SLP and you uhave a dehpi maf. the myth of descreening maf is also tossed out when the SLP maf comes descreened and Z06 maf is same as well car and truck both have 78mm tbs

a VIC doesnt have equal air flow. you can see that by looking at hte runers the inside 4 gets more air then outward 4. this tend to cam decision being different then your run of mill LS cam. also the Elbow on top hurts performance for NA it would be ideal for NA to put a 4150 style TB on it now with boost the intake isnt as critical as some think. the air is pressurized so its going to go where it needs to go. there have been quite a few ppl making over 1k hp wih stock intakes. there are tons of ppl making less then 1k hp using other style intakes. so with that being said why complicate and spend money on things when its not needed or a a benefit? the XLT does look good for boost tho

not worth it to be honest. if you get to point of maxing out the maf then upgrade to speed density

not enough injector!!! 90pounders are good for gas alone at that power level. 1k crank is 800rwhp. E85 needs more fuel and more pump. I been eyeing up what i need for my new setup and ill need another F20000 walboro [100 psi walboro] or a external race fuel pump and probably 160lb injectors. souly on E85 needs fuel!! i played around with a 40% mix of E85 on my setup now and easily maxed my injectors with using mix. if you want to use E85 youll be using probably 120s for that power level. one thing i found out with E85 is its forgiving sinec it dont denotate as easily

E85 good fuel and smells good. exhaust will smell like rum and takes alot of injector

im curious to see the results? are you wanting 1k rwhp or do you only want crank hp?

add boost and that 4.8 will suprise all!!!!

your tuner should know where to make your truck shift. if cam is in sig is cam in motor i would shift it around 6700 rpms

Turbo cam selection 101 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Turbo Cam Selection 101 How to select a turbo cam Duration: Duration is critical to a turbo setup since its probably the single most important event of a turbo motor (i.e. time valve sits open and closed). Since the air is being forced instead of drawn into and out of the combustion chamber, duration will be your largest variable on how that incoming/outgoing air is managed. Duration when using a manifold or log design on most turbo cams is usually about 6 degrees more intake duration than exhaust duration (226/220, 240/234). This is mainly because a manifold/log design will typically see higher then a 2:1 pressure ratio in the exhaust ( as high as 4:1 with some logs). By using a reverse split duration this will somewhat help prevent from getting exhaust gas reversion. Duration when using an efficient header setup with most turbo cams will usually be (230/230, 224/224) or better known as a dual pattern cam. The thinking is with the exhaust backpressure being only 2:1 you can leave the exhaust valve open a little longer then if the exhaust backpressure was 3:1 or higher. Also some of the new turbo designs produce a much lower backpressure with the advent of better flowing turbine wheels and housings which further decrease the total amount of backpressure created by the system. Overlap: Overlap definition, is the time period when both the exhaust valve and the intake valve are open at the same time. The exhaust valve needs to stay open after the piston passes TDC in order to use the vacuum created of the exiting exhaust gases to maximize the amount of exhaust gas drawn out of the cylinder. The intake valve opens before TDC in order to use the vacuum created by the exiting exhaust gases to start drawing the intake charge into the cylinder. This sequence of events above are controlled by the duration and LS (Lobe separation) of the cam. On a typical N/A motor this is essential since you have no pressure being developed on the intake side to push the charge into the combustion chamber. The problem with this event is a turbocharged motor will create a larger amount of backpressure on the exhaust side. Due to this event the above definition will not apply. Reason being is, when the intake valve opens at BTDC, the burned gasses in the chamber will exit out the intake since the pressure is lower than the exhaust. Since this is true you would not want to open the intake valve until the piston has started going down, ATDC. This will lower the combustion chamber pressure till it's below the intake manifold pressure. To calculate the overlap of your cam simply follow these steps below: **Example turbo cam:** Duration @ .006 218/212 Lift .544/.544 lift Lobe Separation (LS) 114 Add the intake and exhaust durations Divide the results by 4 Subtract the LSA Multiply the results by 2 Overlap is -6.5 Degrees of overlap **Example N/A cam :** Duration 236/242 Lift .568/.576 Lobe Separation (LS) 112 Add the intake and exhaust durations Divide the results by 4 Subtract the LSA Multiply the results by 2 Overlap is 15 Degrees of overlap Above was the process on how to calculate your cams overlap. As you can see, the overlap in the 2 cams differ greatly. Running the N/A cam example on a manifold setup would be a horribly in-efficient setup and the engine would be operating well below its potential output. While running the example turbo cam would work well even with the most in-efficient of the header systems out there. Typically a overlap spread of -8 degrees to +2 is a safe bet. Of course this will differ with whatever combination header, turbo and exhaust is used, so those #'s could be higher or lower. Lift: How much lift should I get in my cam? Well that will depend on your heads' flow characteristics. To choose the correct turbo camshaft, you really need to know how your cylinder heads flow. Reason is if your cylinder head flows X amount of air at X amount of lift, choosing a cam that has a lift much greater then that will gain you nothing except extra heat and premature wear of the valve spring. Airflow through a head reaches a peak as the valve is opened, then starts to drop off as the valve is lifted beyond that peak. Most of this of this will hold true to definition, but with a forced induction motor, valve lift is not as critical since the incoming air is pressurized. A good rule of thumb is to select a cam that will lift the valve 20-25% past its peak flow point. So be the definition above if your head flows best at 0.500" of lift, use a cam that will lift the valve between 0.600" and 0.625". The reasoning behind this is, if you lift the valve only to its peak flow point, then the valve only flows best when it's wide open. The cycle is brief and would only happen once per stroke. So to benefit from you peak flow the most, you want to lift the valve past its peak. That way the valve will pass its peak flow twice in the cycle. The result is more flow during the opening and closing event of the valve. You do not want to raise the valve much past the peak flow though, or you lose total flow by going too high. Calculating the best lift: 0.500 X 1.20 = 0.600 0.500 X 1.25 = .0625 Conclusion: There are way too many factors to just say XX cam will make XX power with your combo. Things like "114LS is best, or 117LS, or ..etc", are just blanket statements. Backpressure, RPM range, boost level, target horsepower, A/R of turbo, turbo frame (T3, T4, T6/Thumper), head flow, cubic inches, and even location of turbo...etc. All of these factors are extremely important in determining the cam that best suits your needs. There is no rule of thumb with a turbo cam. There are too many variables and the only way to get the right cam is to take all of those your parameters into consideration, and only then can a proper cam be selected. All of the points of reference above are just to get you on your way to building the best and most powerful turbo system for you. Study your design and ask questions along the way and you will be smiling the next time your opponent lines up next to you. Feel free to contact us for your needs. Also once you have read this and want to know the theory behind turbo charging, check out our advanced look at the engineering behind turbochargers.

what is NOS

thanks, just odd that happend the 2 previous runs one at 18psi and other at 15psi both spun past 100' mark. dropped to 14psi and did the same routine on launch. 14 might of been the magic number or fact that the tires never seen heat till those runs. and as i heard the DRs get better with breakin

never crossed my mind i would need to screw them. i didnt think i made enough power or had enough bite.

heres a pic of 4500 launch with 14psi in the DRs with 5psi boost right rear never moved the driverside spun in rim and broke the carrier in the 14bolt

LQ9 uses same FLEXPLATE as a LM7. I did this swap years ago. install it with all your current components and get a tune for the 6.0

honestly the whole myth with cams is exactly what the myth is a myth. as long as the cam isnt crazy on overlap it will work with boost. some will disagree with this and usually are ones that dont have experience with things outside the norm. ive seen stock cams make power, i seen custom spec cams make huge power. then i seen the other way around. this is how i see it.......NA cams work with boost as long as its with in reason. a Trex or MS4 wont be ideal for boost but you could rock a 224 cam on a 114 and make solid power. You want to keep overlap at the most of 5* tops with that being said go with what you like for now. the cam isnt going to make the world of difference. yes youll gain some power from the cam but in turbo you can always just turn up the boost knob and make same power. personally i would look into larger injectors first before worring bout a cam. But if you want a cam for that 6.0 look into Speed INC has some nice cams. it seems to be blower cams work well. EPP blower cam works great with turbos. my cam is now available through comp cams. 230/236 some will come in and say LS6 is way to go, yes it works and has made numbers but your leaving power on table if your actually cracking motor open. if on budget then its fine. expect a few ponies over wehre you are now

the limit of boost is actually not boost its everything that is part of the equation. first and foremost you need you need a dead spot on tune!!!!! this will never be done by mailorder this has to be done in person. Next you need to run cool IATs, you need a cool running motor and good gas. Now you dont necessary need meth, i found out with running a mix of E85 my IATs dropped under boost just as they would with meth. i dropped 6* when using E85 while siting at 15psi. I dyno'd at 15psi and made good numbers. my motor has seen 19psi and 25 psi on spikes and never had issues. i shoot for a target of 10.8-11.3 AFR. for the extra ponies leaning it out is worth its not worth it in my eyes since ill just add more boost at a richer state. to answer your question no one has found the true limit of these motors yet. Many are making 800rwhp, a few touched 900. Psi doesnt matter as much as you think. since PSI on this build isnt hte same as PSI on that build. you need rock solid tune!!!!!!!!!!!!! 93 octane and right supporting mods and you could easily see big numbers....But be warned that at anypower level things can fail fast!!! so to say i think my 15psi i run is safe and i been so for 3k worht of miles. and i spin as high as 7600...that has to say something for something

your making some ground. the KBlog is a solid piece

black one looks better cause of the bumper. the blue one's bumper just is too large. reminds me of a huge fat chick's rear