Black2003SS

I have from the flange where the cats go into the muffler to the exhaust tip. Its all in one piece still, didnt cut it up.

I got this one guys... SEARCH!!!! Seriously though, it depends on what your performance goals are and how you plan to use the truck.

wasnt there something about a plastic cap involved with a pin on the servo that if it wasnt installed, it would launch in second?

You ran down a mid 12 second CTSV with your mods? hmmm.... Or am I just missing some mods you have or did he run you down?

There is a video on www.ststurbo.com of a Z71 attempting the 4 wheel hi launch. The biggest problem is that the front axles are locked. I also think it is very hard on the transfer case. Check out the video and see how it worked. He didnt grenade his tranny.

Once you go black...you never go back...

A converter in our awd trucks is good for at 3-5 tenths in the quarter. If you do a cam swap, you will need to change valve springs like benkey mentioned, worth it though. You can pick up 40-60hp with a good cam swap and custom tune. Some Nelson guy in texas claimed 90hp, but most didnt believe it. I have no clue if it was true or not. As far as the NO2 goes, the zex kit can be removed without leaving much of a trace that it was there depending on you mount the control box it comes with. Good luck with your decisions. There are so many its not even funny.

There is an optimal ratio you want to be between for take off. I forget exactly what it is, but richmond usually I think said it was somewhere when you take the first gear ratio of the trans and multiply it by the rear end gear ratio. So for example, first gear ratio is 3.27:1, multiply this by the rear pinion ratio of 4.10:1 = 13.41. Richmond desigend their 5 speed street transmission around this concept to have the fifth gear at 1.0:1, but conserve economy by being able to run a numerically lower ratio rear end, like a 3.23 or even a 2.83. They said the max rear end recommended with their 5 speed was a 3.42:1. I wish I had the exact numbers to help you out.

The ZEX system for the trucks comes with a nitrous control center to add the right amount of fuel based on the bottle pressure of the nitrous. i would seriously not waste your money on the rockers. I think you will be disappointed in the amount of gains you see for the effort and cost. Get the headers first. Also, rockers will void your warranty most likely because they would end up being the culprit of the failure. 400hp is doable by staying out of the motor. TB spacer is worthless as the paper the advertise them on. The only need for one is if you need them for a place to hook up the nitrous. Your immediate list should include... PCM Pace Setters CAI - cold air induction cat back exhaust torque converter This combo will help you drop up to almost a full second in the qaurter mile...or more.

Yella terra sounds mexican...low quality. I would trust Harland sharp before anything else. What are you trying to accomplish with the rockers? More horsepower? Are you building a motor? If you want performance and horsepower, spend $500 on a ZEX nitrous kit and call it a day. Alot safer and easier to bolt on than rockers or anything. If you run the factory 75hp shot for the truck applications, you really dont even need tuning. Alot more ang for your buck. You really need to establish some performance goals. Do you want to naturally aspirated or forced induction? Do you want to tear into the block or not? Do you want to run 500 hp or just bolt ons and 400hp? Is this a daily driver? Do you have any current mods? Truthfully, you would probably gain more from just a pcm hot tune from zippy or pcmforless than what the rockers would give you. Those rockers are good for maybe 15-20hp gain...no where near 40 on an LSx style motor.

HArland sharp has been around for years. They are proven in the racing industry. I had a set on my sbc 78 Z28, fantastic rockers. The only thing is that they, like all companies, have had an issue or two with certain designs. I cant remember if they had issues with rockers on LSx style engines or not. I know they had some build quality issues on grand prix rockers. But in their defense, how many comp cams failures and lifter failures have you seen? Probably just as many as any other large company. If they fit your vehicle, they are a great buy. Doesn't Tbyrnemotorsports sell rockers?

Stop F@#$%ing around with that dealer. PM revolutionraceworks, he's local to you, knows these trucks in and out, hes less expensive than a dealer (I understand you have a warranty) and he wont BS you. If you have a cracked piston, you will know, if its wires and plugs, you will know. I am seriously starting to think you have a cracked piston. I had the same thing happen in a stock L67 gm 3800 supercharged V6 engine. My car was fine and idle and cruising, started having misfires and the SES light under load. Abotu 2k miles after i started having the trouble and replacing the coils/wires/plugs etc...BOOM...the piston came apart completely. I really am beginning to think you ahve a mechanical failure. Broken valve springs would cause this as well. You really need to stop dicking around with the same dumb dealer and get some real answers. If you come back on here saying you took it back to the dealer, I am going to pound you.

You have internal mechanical problems if that is the case, or a serious injector malfunction. I hope you dont have bad rings or something worse. How does the truck idle? Does the SES light come on all the time?

search But to answer your question anyways...If you read the radix information at their site, you will clearly see they provide a warranty if you use their tuning equipment that comes with the kit and the pulley that comes with the kit. Most radix users eventually end up dropping the pulley size and getting custom tunes. You cant run a smaller pulley on the radix tune safely. Also, it has been proven that the radix tune is extremely conservative and just by going with a custom dyno tune, you can pick up noticeable gains. Some have tried mail order tunes for the radix and have mixed results. Some ended up with grenaded engines, some ended up with happy results and impressive gains. Results by tuning company are also mixed. All in all though most are pretty reliable. I dont think every company has a 100% satisfactory rating. Hope this helps. Your best bet is get the kit, get it installed by a reliable performance shop using the included radix handheld tuner, run the pulley that comes in the kit, and take it from there.

I'll offer $300 if I dont have to "buy" anything else from hptuners.

Don't waste you rmoney on the gibsons. Spend it on the Tune, CAI, and Exhaust. Whe you can afford the Pace setter long tube headers, buy those They will offer the best bang for the buck.

On my way home last night a Mustang GT vert comes flying by and cuts me off. Hes on the cell phone, top down, being all smooth etc. I giv ehim a good rev, he turns around and looks at me (im behind him thanks to him cutting me off). So the light turns green and I am already up his a$$ with the throttle, he floors it trying to get away. Nope. I was closing fast enough I had to let up, but switched lanes quickly, got back in it and started passing him (four laned road). I passed him around 60-70 and by 90 I was a length by him. wow. cant wait until I get my blower installed. I knew those mustangs in the automatic convertible were slow, but not that slow.

How much is that electric car? I cant find a price. If its under $50k, thats awesome, its more than that, your better off with a gas guzzling V8 over the course of 5 years incuding maintenance.

I believe revolutionraceworks is in chicago, you might want to talk to him.

Calling Zippy in an hour. Hopefully he can overnight something.

Hello? Any more suggestions?

Oh...i forgot to mention i have a yank tt2600 also in the tranny.

I didnt "log" them. I used autotap and monitored real time observation. I might have a file from this morning. Should I order a zippy tune and see if it gets any better?

My mods are Pace setter headers, high flow cats, outlaw CAI, and Corsa exhaust. I am not running a custom, cam, blower, or anything else. I replaced the wires with MSD wires and protective heat sheilds, thats it. Today I was logging some runs on the way to and from work. I have zero KR at idle, and normal driving conditions. At WOT, the KR shows up about 6 degrees of KR. That worries me a little for a stock tune, or is that normal? I do know I have an exhaust leak at the flange between the cat and where it bolts up to the corsa system. But isnt that too far away to cause false knock? If the pace setters were hitting my frame would that cause false knock? It seems to do it no matter what at WOT. What else should I look for to determine if it is false knock? What would be causing it to be real knock? I dont ever hear any pinging like I did on my avalanche, you could definetly hear it. Oh, I run 93+ octane all the time.

The outlaw CAI kit tells you to disconnect the battery and let the PCM "reset" to "learn" the new fresh air, but I dont see it throwing codes either. I think your problems lie elsewhere. You could have an electrical gremlin, who knows. Hope it works out for you though.