Fast06

I used Alaska Transmission and Gear............ Carter had recommended the shop to me after having his transmission rebuilt there. I believe Carter hadn't had any issues with his tramission and he is pushing more horsepower than me. Carter and Brody from Fast Times both recommended Marc who is the owner to do the rebuild.

I had my transmission rebuilt two months ago after breaking all the lugs out of the main drum in the transmission @ 70K. The transmission shop also discovered that the output shaft was twisted and that the second gear clutch was worn down to the rivits. I had the shop put in a shift kit from technology products during the rebuild. The transmission felt really good after the retune was performed. About a month after having my truck back I was on my way to work in the morning and stopped at the traffic light; when I went to accelerate the transmission revved in drive without grabbing. I had to manually shift through the gears to get it to the shop. Transmission shop has looked at all common fixes associated with that problem and has not been able to fix it yet. What would cause the transmission to not work in drive but work going through the gears manually?

I also had the transfer case touched up; bad ply plate bearing and the pump broke free. Waiting for a retune on Monday, went with a smaller stall, had a shift kit installed as well. Tranny feels really good until I get on it and it cant decide on when the converter is going to lock.

Last week on the way to lunch I put my foot into it. Near the top of first gear around 6200rpms I felt the tranny drop early and hard into second. When I started taking off again It felt like I no longer had first gear. Just got back today after being rebuilt; all the lugs were broken off from inside the drum. Tech told me that he had never seen that before. Anyone else hear of the lugs breaking off from the inside of the drum?

The hop is really noticable at any speed above 40. The hop is present with my 17's that I use for the winter and the 20's that are used for the summer. Tires are Hankook Ventus 275/55/20 have had them for four summers on them (here a summer is 5 - 6 months at most) 60 % tread left. Hope its not the shock; the ride control shocks are little pricey!

I have been experiencing a front wheel hop on the driverside of my truck. I have had the wheels rebalanced multiple times; it did not fix the problem. Then changed out the front brake pads and rotors; still didn't fix the problem. The faster I go the more pronounced the hop is. I have launched my truck multiple times in four wheel drive at the track and at street lights. Is it possible that I have bent the driveshaft or another part that would cause the hop? Is there any common problems with launching in four wheel drive?

See you Wednesday @ 6!

I might be up for a meet depending on the date and time.

I am getting a constant noise in four wheel drive. It is a rotational gear noise that increases with speed. Did a little looking online a found bulletin: PIP3480M for vehicle made from 1/1/04 to 3/6/06 have to do with noise coming from the transfer case because lack of pressure since there were parts used that were not pressed. If they reflash the transfer case would that reflash the entire computer? Any thoughts on this bulletin? Anyone else hear of this? Just hoping that I don't need to pay $1800 to $1900 for a new trasfer case.

The viper is my choice as well. John at Kreative installed my viper SST two years ago; haven't had a problem yet. He originally installed a scoche(compustar) when I first bought my truck; some parts of town there was no range. Had my muffler swapped this week; for something a little quieter. Cut out the 3"dual in dual out magnaflow and went with a 50 series flowmaster dual 2 3/4 in dual 2 1/2 out. There is definitely more back pressure than there was before.

Wish I could to the strip......will be in Anaheim until next weekend.

I've had a noise coming from the front end since halfway through winter. Its different than the normal 4 wheel drive noise; it would start making noise everytime I would engage the 4 wheel drive. I had a drive line specialist listen to it and he said that it was a bearing going out in the front end. Estimated cost is around $900, I'll wait until late summer to get it fixed. I guess the only advantage is that I can get both front axel seals fixed since they are leaking.

Sounds good; I will be leaving town March 15 for 13 weeks of training in CA for a new job. I"ll get intouch with you when I come back.

Its normally behind the Red SS facing the building. Need to plug in that block heater! Some Tuesdays I have my wife drop me off after are morning workout at Powerhouse gym.

Last two winters I haven't heard this noise....... at least not as noticable as it is now. If it gets any lounder than I'll start to get worried.

I normally drive in 2wd until there is a good amount of snow on the roads. I placed in 4wd last week and I heard a rotational gear noise coming from under the truck. Everytime I placed it back in 2wd the noise went away. I changed the tranfer case and differential fluids 25k miles ago w/ Mobil 1 and Auto Trac II. I replaced the transfer case fluid after hearing the noise; and it didn't fix anything. I checked the level in the front differential and it is still full. What could cause that noise that I'm hearing?

I work for the railroad loading the trailers that lyden drops of at the rail yard for the train up to Fairbanks. My truck is parked on the roadside of the building.

1.7 was for the book time for the set; I only need help with one. I probably could buy the tool cheaper for the job, if I knew which one was going to work. I had the same problem with changing out a plug on a 93 chevy with headers. They had to heat up and bend a box wrench in two places to get the plug out.

I was checking to see how much they would charge for spark plugs. I'm putting in a set of TR6 that Zippy recommended to reduce my KR. I can't get the cylinder 8 plug with my headers on; dont' have tools that can squeeze into that area. Underground wanted to charge the 1.7 book hours; when it only takes me 1/2hr to do the other seven. John will do it for me a lot cheaper.

The are always working on cars, but always can fit you in a few days. I see that you work for Lynden / Alaska West. I work across from their building off Whitney Rd near the port.

I am Union worker for the local 183 as a Equipment Operator / Truck Driver for the Alaska Railroad. Better job coming soon!

I stopped by Underground yesterday..... they said that I could get in next week. I would go by Kreative and talk to John if its something not to technical.

I've ran the tranny hard. Its been to the track a few times, seen a lot of WOT during all of the logging for my tune. It does also see the frequent red light race.

Someone else from the 907! Welcome to the site. What problems did you have with your SS?

For the labor and tune; brody charged $1200(I believe he called underground to see what they would charge and charged me half what they were going to). Nick did the work on my truck at underground; he charged $1,500 for the torque converter and spring install. It cost a little extra becuase they had to slide my custom exhaust back. I haven't done anything to my tranny yet; no problems so far at 51,000