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2800 to 3000-rpm stall is the usual recommendation in our trucks with a Vortech

 

I was hoping you would chim in considering your cam knowledge. As for the TC if that the case I will do the Yank TT3000 that is on sale for $480. Do you think I should go this route rather then the TB one? What do you think about the cam?

I think $480 is a good price for that converter but you might be much happier with a little lower 2800-rpm stall speed; I also think the TB converter will work well but you won't be able to tow over 4500-lbs in OD, but for an "urban hauler" this is never an issue.

 

The cam recommendation Berserker posted is pretty close to what I think, that is I agree you need a lot of exhaust bias but how that is achieved will depend on exhaust port, header, and catback - if you have professionally prepped heads with very free-flowing exhaust then you might only need 3-5 degrees more duration (than intake duration), with stock exhaust port 8-degrees sounds a bit more appropriate. But also remember there is more to "breathing" than just duration, there's lift and lobe profile to consider too - some cam makers are a bit tamer than others at a given lift/duration for reliability and valvetrain cost concerns. Food for thought - assuming you make 10-lbs boost, the exhaust side of this monster will act like it is 625 cu.in. (rather than 364 cu.in.) - what does it take to exhaust a 625 cu. in. engine??? (Hint - more than 2.5-inch collectors I bet...)

 

Controlling overlap is a serious concern on a supercharged engine for mileage/economy reasons - too much overlap and you will literally blow unburned fuel right out the open exhaust valve = bad emissions, bad mileage, burned-out cats. 0-degree overlap is a safe call, it's a little too conservative for me plus I believe more in looking at where the actual intake/exhaust valve events are timed in relation to piston (stroke) position.

 

The 213/219 cam 04CHASE talks about seems a good smart choice, especially as that truck has to work within the CA smog testing program.

 

Mr. P.

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Well I talked with the guys over ate Vinci and they want me to run thier XXX cam wich is something like 222/228  115lsa  and with a 1.8 arm to increase everything 2-3 deg. This is big $$$$$ due to the dual springs they have $500 alone, arms $600 forget it! I just want a stick and springs damn it!

Then that makes the choice a lot easier. Tell FMS you want the most aggressive performance you can get on the Comp beehive springs and be done with it.

 

Mr. P. :)

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Higher ratio rockers are just a way to get more money out of you. If you are putting in a cam, just get it cut to what you want vs getiing something added that changes the cam profile anyway.

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I'm a little disappointed in the Vinci response... I don't think they are doing it for more money, I think they just want to sell an off the shelf (for them) grind. I may go over there tomorrow and slap 'em around ;)

 

Overlap in a s/c is worse than just poor economy -- not as bad as a turbo, but still a hit to performance. You can get away with more than 0* but I'd stick with as close to 0 as you can stand. You can run tons of overlap (even on a turbo), but you're leaving some of your FI power on the table, imo.

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:banghead: You know, I got to be more careful. This is the second time this week that I did this. I thought that is the one you got a quote for from Vinci with the specs altered for the rockers. Didn't think before I typed. Will you be using the stock rockers?
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With the one above yes, that cam is called the cheater. I can also get one ground for me for the same price just not exact on the specs I want. I do however want to use the 918 springs and the 1.7 rockers. If I have to go with 921 then so be it.

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the 918's are listed as being good to .600, but the largest shelf cam listed for comp is a .605/.609 and the spring recomended is the 918. if i were to pick something custom i'd go around .580/.580 and 210/228 on a 114. i think that cheater cam would work well with the vortech having a very fast ramp rate on the intake side to keep the boost up and alot of exhaust duration to get the exhaust out which stock heads need help with. for an off the shelf cam it should work well. it is the same cam that the guy with the H2 ran for a bit also.

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