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Cam advice


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Ok so I am going to order this damn thing Monday. So Zippy are you saying order the cheater or go with a the numbers you mentioned above? If I don't come up with a nice custom grind then I will go with the cheater with a set of dual, like the 921.

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That all depends on which you can get sooner. I would go for the custom grind if you can get it when you want it and for the right price, but I wouldn't shy away from the cheater cam either...

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With the above cam I should be able to use the 918 spring, and as long as I keep my rpm's below 6K I can use the stock retainer's......other wise I have to get some ti retainers. Does this sound right. So to do this job I should only need the cam, 918's and ????????????? This will be my first cam install, shouldn't be that bad.

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If you keep the shift points below 6K with that cam you're going to be throwing alot of power out the window. The shift point on a cam of that size in a 6.0L is going to be around 6600 or so. I'd recomend some better pushrods also and some Kaetech rod bolts. Tuning for that cam shouldn't be too difficult. You may run out of injector though...

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Some other things to "only" consider with that many miles already. I would consider a new oil pump and timing chain.

 

Go to this site Scoggin Dickey and search for part #'s: SD3964B and SDCS1140 or SDCS1130. The first part is the oil pump. The last two are timing chains, you choose.

 

I did mine at an early stage for my motor. If I had 50k miles already, I wouldn't have to think twice. If you decide to do one, it doesn't make any sense to not do the other (pump/chain). I have the 1140 chain and love it. Not 100% how that 1130 chain works, but it is for our motors.

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Ok so let me get the list together.

1.Cam ($100)

2. 918 Springs($160)

3. Ti Retainers ($272)

4. Chrome Molly Push rods($110)

5. Timing chain ($100)

6. Ported oil pump ($150)

 

Injectors?????

 

Is this worth it now? Im at $900 with out injectors. Zippy whats up with the rod bolts? Where can I get those and can the pan be dropped to change them?

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Ok so let me get the list together.

1.Cam ($100)

2. 918 Springs($160)

3. Ti Retainers ($272)

4. Chrome Molly Push rods($110)

5. Timing chain ($100)

6. Ported oil pump ($150)

 

Injectors?????

 

Is this worth it now? Im at $900 with out injectors. Zippy whats up with the rod bolts? Where can I get those and can the pan be dropped to change them?

 

 

Don't you already have 42s with the vortech?

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Yes but I guess I am will run out of fuel up top. If I go beyond 6k. I can not find my dyno graph that I posted for the life of me and I want to see when the truck went lean.

 

 

You may be able to squeek by with the meth kit if you are running strait meth right? :dunno: I wouldn't rely on it though, I vote for larger injectors...SVO's maybe since you are just over the top, if ya find another set, I will buy them as well

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Ok so let me get the list together.

1.Cam ($100)

2. 918 Springs($160)

3. Ti Retainers ($272)

4. Chrome Molly Push rods($110)

5. Timing chain ($100)

6. Ported oil pump ($150)

 

Injectors?????

 

Is this worth it now? Im at $900 with out injectors. Zippy whats up with the rod bolts? Where can I get those and can the pan be dropped to change them?

You only "need" the springs to go with that cam. The rest is just insurance or to save you from work later.

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To hit 500 awhp on 42lbers, you're going to be in the range of 95% injector duty cycle at 58psi of fuel pressure and assuming a BFSC of .6. Its not as bad as it sounds though, seeing as how thats a 2003 with a vacuum regulated fpr, you're probably a little higher on fp at wot (and not sure if vortech uses a boost sensitive FMU anymore?)

 

To get back to 80% IDC, you need 50lb injectors (rated @43.5 psi). The only way to hit 80% with the 42lbers is to run 85psi of fuel :eek:

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