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408 "ls-6" With Direct Port Nitrous


Krambo

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You are correct about the diameters. I thought long and hard about this one before I did what I did. For me I used Russel hard line to -AN adaptors which requires permanently cutting the metal fuel lines with pipe cutters, slightly flaring the end and adding a ferrule to pinch them together. I chose to do this because again I wanted the feed and return lines hidden behind the manifold. I originally bought these adaptors to use and at the last minute, changed my mind:

 

LS1 stock fuel line to -AN fitting

 

They work just fine and make very short work of adapting your fuel lines however you will have the fuel lines visible behind the motor. If you do not care about seeing the fuel lines, these are the ticket just plug and play for the supply line. I have 2 of these fittings if you would like one at a deep discount...just shoot me a PM.

 

 

so from the fpr you have a short piece of braided line behind the intake connecting to the factory line that was adapted to -an but remains in the factory location.

 

using the adapter is fine for my motor, I'll shoot you a pm now.

 

Thanks!

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so from the fpr you have a short piece of braided line behind the intake connecting to the factory line that was adapted to -an but remains in the factory location.

 

Kind of.

 

I cut the factory hard lines pretty low (about even with the valley cover on the motor) however still use the factory mounting bracket that comes off the transmission stud at the 11 O'clock position. I used the hard line adaptor and connected the bottom port of the FPR to the Hard line adaptor with some -6AN fuel hose and -6AN hose fittings (with the needed angles). The fuel lines are invisible unless you really look for them

 

Sent ya a PM

Edited by Krambo (see edit history)
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any update pics of you black widow kevin?

 

I do, just have to download them off the digi camera. With the holidays, my wife pretty much owned the camera. I will do my best to post up an update soon (...how do you like that for commitment :P )

 

Any video or sound clips? I'm getting antsy to see this thing!!

 

Well the only vid I made so far is the raw idle clip. Ever since the exhaust has been buttoned up, the pig is very quiet believe it or not. Here is the idle clip again in case you missed it, really can't hear it well until about half way through when I step out of the truck...then it is a chop fest!:

 

th_4081075RPMidle-1.jpg

Edited by Krambo (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

Well, its been a while since an update so I figured a couple of quick pictures are in order. I have mainly been working on tuning and wiring so the pig is FILTHY! It will clean up just fine, I swear :uhoh:

 

O.K. here is the location of the switches for the direct port:

 

IMG_2237.jpg

 

The top rocker switch will control the relay for the stand alone fuel pump, the second rocker down from the top will be the main arming switch for the N2O in conjunction with the Trick P-Gauge controller, the 3rd down from the top is a 3 position rocker to activate a remote bottle opener and last is the purge activation. That is the plan at the moment however could change. I am kicking around the idea of another kit (dry) since the DP set-up is not a dual stage. I would really like to leave off the line with a nice 50-75 shot and have the DP set-up come on progressively through 2nd gear or even only in 3rd. We'll see :ninja:

 

Alright, here is the 3 pillar gauge pod all wired up. Top gauge is the Trick Performance P-gauge, center gauge is the wideband and the bottom gauge is fuel pressure (for the motor).

 

IMG_2238.jpg

 

Here is a picture of the stand alone all wired up and plumbed as well as the purge solenoid and nitrous feed line:

 

IMG_2234.jpg

 

I did the stand alone fuel system in -6AN since I had some left over fittings and line. I added a replaceable media billet fuel filter (anodized red of course), a mechanical fuel pressure gauge (to set the pressure by) and a fuel pressure safety switch (this will fail the solenoids in the event of lost pressure and save the motor). I tucked this mess all up under the cowl base and dropped the fuel line down on the other side of the motor...from the back. This will clean up all of the spagetti involved with a stand alone and all the wiring involved. Wiring was tucked in convoluted tubing and mounted next to the fuel line. The wires consist of ... Fuel pump for the stand alone, Fuel pressure safety switch, purge solenoid, main N20 and Fuel solenoid. Lots of wires to tuck up there.

 

I made a custom bracket for the purge solenoid, mounted it on the "firewall", drilled and grommeted a hole for the purge line and poked it through just under the center of the windshield (see picture). The point of locating the purge vent at this location is to SEE when you are done venting the air from the line and the nitrous begins to flow through the purge vent. IMHO, the ideal location is is in the center of the base of the windshield for optimum visibility.

 

Here is a little closer shot of the goods:

 

IMG_2240.jpg

 

Other than that, I had the exhaust buttoned up (too quiet now IMO), I have been working on the bottle mounting bracketry for the bed, I powdercoated my intake tubing black, started adding convoluted tubing where appropriate and changing around numerous vacuum tubing lines and junk like that. Here is a little wider shot so far outlining the new intake color:

 

IMG_2235.jpg

 

I should have my DUAL bottle mounting strategy all ironed out next weekend with pictures of that maybe the week after. She is coming together! :chevy:

Edited by Krambo (see edit history)
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"enough nitrous to blow yourself up period"

 

:lol: No kidding! The nitrous will not see too much action. I focused on a N/A motor and the rest is for mainly show. However, don't think I will not be "testing" it out at a track.

 

 

hey how do you like that autometer WB02? im thinking of ditching my inovative for an autometer

 

Well, the wiring is VERY easy compared to an Innovate, it has outputs for logging and utilizes the same Bosch O2 sensor that most widebands do. It seams to react quickly and my readings from commanded AFR are just about dead on (not sure if that is good or bad). It does have a stupid function though, when you fire the truck up, it counts down from like 20 before you can get a reading. It kind of made idle tuning a little challenging but I survived. Other than that, the O2 wire could be a little longer.

 

I chose it due to matching my current phantom FP gauge and also the white faces of the SS cluster.

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