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Well, thats not too bad.

 

If you ran some forged pistons, rods, new rings on the stock crank, the price shouldn't be too bad. An easy .030 overbore would give you a 370 CI motor. Parts should be in the $1200 range, and $500ish in labor. Just call it $2000 to go forged. That would allow you to lower compression even more, up the boost, and run nitrous safely. :) Of course you know even the cheapest stroker will run you close to $4000 for a finished shortblock.

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I'm actually kind of prepared for costs around the $4000 range. I may get the Keith Craft balanced stroker kit, then get the block worked on and built here. Don't know what the cost diff between buying just the shortblock, or buying the kit and having it built locally would be, but may be able to get a better picture of that tomorrow.

 

Do you think my stock crank can handle boost and nitrous? I was thinking a forged crank also, which would force me for $200 more, to go for the stroker crank/kit.

 

I'm not smart enough on this stuff to know what the hell I'm buying, whether or not I need block work, etc.. I'm sure I do, just don't know how much boring is necessary. I guess I need to pull out those formulas and find out.

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just remembered that slp is coming out with a nice 402 shortblock, pretty cheap, i want to say around 3900 bucks, but i really cant remember,

 

just a thought,

 

allen

Any idea when they are coming out with it? I don't see it on their site.

 

Maybe we can get back to some of that tuning shi* one day :P This one should be fun.

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Well,

BenKey sorry to hear about all of this, it been a long weekend away and I'm sorry to come back and hear of another good ss owner down.

 

All said and done with my warrenty it would have been 3800 worth in repairs to get the whole motor redone with new rings.......

 

As far as what a dealer would charge for a full rebuild.

 

Good luck with whichever you decide to do. :cheers:

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Even if you went with a stroker buildup, I'd still spend the time putting your current motor back to stock and get the dealer to fix it under warranty. Then you could sell the stock LQ9 and offset the cost of the stroker. I sold an LQ9 last year for $2500. I just bought a completle used 6L for less than $700 to use for a stroker core so I could sell my LQ9. You do the math.

 

A stroker shortblock will take several weeks at least to have built and shipped. You could have your LQ9 fixed under warranty and driveable until the new one gets delivered. Then you would have the heads, chain, oil pump and cam all ready to go on the shortblock. Swapping motors would be a cake walk at that point.

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More than likely it would be tough to justify and prove that the blower caused a spun or damaged bearing. Blowers tend to break or burn stuff. I agree I would go back to stock, take it in, put up a fight, and force their hand. May be worth several thousand dollars to you. Good luck either way.

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Oh yeah, the most important thing here is the wife supports what is happening right now. If I did go back to stock, fight with the dealer and they rebuild my motor, that would be where I was left. No forged build, no stroker. Why would I need that? Speaking as my wife.

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Ben, you have to order up all the stuff, get plans under way, then tell her you just decided to see what the dealer would repair under warranty. Tell her its doubtful that everything will be repaired under warranty, so the stroker kit is still coming. Then if they do completely repair it under warranty, just tell her that its "fixed" but you don't trust it. Then you can make some $$$ from the LQ9 and still get your stroker.

 

That would also be a good opportunity to check out your lifters when you swap out the heads. There is a possibility that its your lifters causing your oil issues. You could look at your cam when you pull it out. Who knows, you may find the problem during that time and not need to go to the dealer at all. Then you still get the stroker, can sell the LQ9, and not have to mess with the dealer.

 

Any chance of going to another dealership for repairs? I think you could take it to any GM dealership, not just Chevy. Take it in, play dumb, explain your problem, and get a free rental. :)

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You make a good case, Richard. That's so much damn work though. It'd be different if someone were here to help me. I have to think about it. Maybe I can offer to pay the guy down the street.

 

I can even tell the wife I'm doing that, I think. Tell her I'm ordering the parts (new stuff), then putting it all back to stock. If by chance they fix it, I can sell the motor for - whatever. If they don't, then the parts are on order anyway. The problem with all of this is, it's getting where it's not even driveable - oil pressure is bottoming easily. I drove it once Friday - didn't think I was going to make it home.

 

I don't know. Hard decision. Pretty sick of working on anything right now. Maybe I'll swing it by her tonight.

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Hey Ben, sorry your still fighting this... Have you flashed your PCM with Edit? Did this problem begin shortly after a new flash?

 

This is kinda a long shot, but might be worth a try. One time I had my ECT gauge stop working after an Edit flash. Could have been the flash, or could have been a bad connection on the PCM harness. Either way, I reflashed the PCM and the gauge started working again.

 

You might try unplugging and replugging your PCM harness. If that doesn't work, maybe try flashing the PCM again.

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