zippy Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 We know you're a team player... I was just pullin' yer chain! We're all Buds here I hope! well of course.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperDave Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEAR M UP Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 It was interesting and opened a lot of eyes on the Volant air box comparisons you guys looked at. Two thumbs up..... Can you expand on that? Why not look at Cat back exhaust and other product that claim bolt on performance adders? The critical issue is not get swayed off by the corporate guys for $$$ in advertising. Become a voice to the consumer, instead of a corporate puppet........ From the last 6 magazines I got from, CHP has been true to the consumer. My $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted October 25, 2004 Report Share Posted October 25, 2004 i just read the new chp, no part 3.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
styleandspeed Posted November 5, 2004 Report Share Posted November 5, 2004 If it isn't too late to suggest maybe a magnaflow muffler in place of the flowmaster since it is definately a consensus around here that they flow more. Aaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperDave Posted November 5, 2004 Report Share Posted November 5, 2004 I'd have to see hard facts to believe that a Magnaflow outflows a Flowmaster of the same chamber volume and basic structure. Both are fine mufflers, but flowmasters are highly used in the drag and street scene and known for their outstanding flow. Magnaflows reputation is more for subtle street use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraman Posted November 5, 2004 Report Share Posted November 5, 2004 A cam can infact make 100 extra hp. Look on thunders site. The t-rex cam made 455rwhp on a m6 car with just boltons and stock long block. Then agian it revs to 7k. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ahh yes the cam I am getting for the Camaro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evandostert Posted November 5, 2004 Report Share Posted November 5, 2004 Thunder racing cams have been known to kill springs quickly. Ok on a drag car but not a daily driven SS. It is easy to go to overboard on picking out a cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperDave Posted November 5, 2004 Report Share Posted November 5, 2004 A person needs to be reeeeaalllllyyyy honest when choosing a cam and components.... a daily driver is just that... a Daily Driver. Putting a fat loping high powerband cam in a low rpm daily driver is just insane. It seriously limits the usefullness of the vehicle. Rule of thumb is 230~240 degrees of duration at .050 lift, and under .475~.480" lift. A lot of folks say why bother, but that is a healthy cam for a heavy truck. Sometimes, less is more. I drive my truck under 3500 rpm a hell of a lot more than I do at 5500 and above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyHighPerformance Posted November 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2004 I'm still reading this, and part 3 is out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hank Posted November 6, 2004 Report Share Posted November 6, 2004 i'v got the dec 2004 issue and don't see it. am i missing something? or is it in the issue that comes out in about a week? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSER Posted November 7, 2004 Report Share Posted November 7, 2004 Don't worry about hurting my feelings...i started the roll pan thing for me and it sorta took on a life of it's own. The roll pan mod with removal of the spare does reduce the rear weight by about 150 lbs. My truck only came up about 1/2 inch higher but I have a Line-X Spray in bed liner. Would this solve that 1 inch issue with the McNaughty rear lowering?(maybe) If you are intrested in doing the weight reduction test, I can have a roll pan made for you to try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyHighPerformance Posted November 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2004 BSER, If this "If you are intrested in doing the weight reduction test, I can have a roll pan made for you to try." was meant for me - I might just take you up on that! From re-reading all the posts here I can see an overwheling majority want me to get in touch with MTV and "Pimp My Ride" for Part 5! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted November 8, 2004 Report Share Posted November 8, 2004 Rule of thumb is 230~240 degrees of duration at .050 lift, and under .475~.480" lift. A lot of folks say why bother, but that is a healthy cam for a heavy truck. Sometimes, less is more. I drive my truck under 3500 rpm a hell of a lot more than I do at 5500 and above. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You mean 210-220 degrees @.050 lift. And more like .520 lift. that's considered very mild. 512/518 .525/.525 on 115 would be a very streetable cam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperDave Posted November 8, 2004 Report Share Posted November 8, 2004 I've got a lot to learn about the LS1 LS6 blocks and components.... my references were to the old small block chevy however. I had a 480 lift, 280 duration @.050 Comp. Cam in my 1984 Silverado in a 355ci small block and it was a little lumpy and the powerband was a little out of my driving range. The rear gear of my truck was a 3.08 and it sucked. I needed at least a 3.70ish gear to work with the cam. Also ran the stock torque converter in the TH350. A nice 2800 stall would have really brought it to life. But the traction of a truck leaves something to be deisired, so what's the point anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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