Blown 346 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 The lifters are new correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjblack03ss Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Ok well my truck didn't get picked up today so my question is how hard would it be for me to rebuild this engine on my own or would I be better off just buying a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjblack03ss Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Well the lifters were used I got them from a friend that had taken them out when he did a cam swap but they worked fine is his truck when he took them out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Thats the first issue is re using old lifters. A rebuild might be a little much when I bet its a lifter issue. Get a new set of lifters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjblack03ss Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Well the screeching from the bottom end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Are you sure its from the bottom end? It can also be from a lifter that is stuck. Have you drained the oil yet and gone thru it with a magnet? Rebuilding it yourself after a machinest has gone thru the block isnt a 123 thing. Especially if you plan to put the bearings etc in on your own. Your looking a thousands of dollars either way. You have to replace.... All the bearings. Re grind and polish the crank get new pistons rings bolt hardware isnt a must but better safe than sorry so go with ARP Chromoly pushrods oil pump Those are the very least without gaskets, fluids, having the block gone thru and looked at, re line honed, checking the cam if it can be saved, etc etc.... That is if your issue isnt somewhere else. You need to figure out where the issue is first before you jump into rebuilding for no reason. The cheaper way to do this would be look thru my previous posts on finding oil pressure, getting a gauge for it, seeing if you have pressure up to the heads. If you do, mark it off the list of possibilities. Then I would remove all the rockers and see if something wasnt installed wrong, remove the lifters and look at them for not only wear, but heat, same goes for where the lifters rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjblack03ss Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Well the day after I sent you the video I startedit then after pulled the covers off and the was some smoke coming from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 That is normal when the covers are off. That doesnt mean you have to rebuild the motor. You are going about this the wrong way... Look at my other posts, do what I posted and it will help you. Dont start it anymore. Doing so you are only going to do more damage. I have given you advice and you havent taken it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjblack03ss Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Yeah my bad I was just trying to get it fixed fast but I'll do the oil pressure check then rockers and lifters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 The codes that you're getting are because of the cam. Going by the cam size I am a bit confused. A cam that big is pretty much for someone looking to spend most of their time racing the truck and with a 4000 stall or more. Usually that kind of thing is for the guy with alot of experience in this. That screeching noise that you heard there isn't good. If you get the engine warm again I bet it will come back. That noise is commonly a main bearing working on a lock-up. I would look some stuff over to make sure you have a proper diagnosis, but you may be looking into a 6.7L replacement. With a cam that big who ever has been helping you should be willing to diagnose it for you. After reading this one more time I'm adding an edit. Did you replace the oil pump when you did the cam swap? It is very commonly done and I'm wondering this only because of the o'ring at the pickup tube could have been what caused this to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjblack03ss Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 No did not replace the oil pump I pulled the engine and everything was pretty much gone. Rods were about to fall apart and the block is no good and some metal shavings ruined the cam also bent valves so now looks like a 408 or 402 will be getting dropped in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Stepping up to the 408 will be a great thing for you. The 4" stroke adds alot of torque and makes it well worth it. I wouldn't go any bigger on camshaft though. My question on the oil pump relates to the pickup tube. The o'ring on the pickup tube can create problems that can kill the engine if it is re-used at all. If you even put it together and take it back apart again without ever firing the engine, replace it. If you do anything other than install it and tighten down the pickup tube bolt replace it. When you go to the 408 make sure to use the windage tray for the 4" stroke so that you don't have to worry about oil pan pickup height or rods touching the tray. With the 4" stroke windage tray everything bolts up and clears short of a small bit of trimming on the arm for the pickup tube a touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 When you go to the 408 make sure to use the windage tray for the 4" stroke so that you don't have to worry about oil pan pickup height or rods touching the tray. With the 4" stroke windage tray everything bolts up and clears short of a small bit of trimming on the arm for the pickup tube a touch. Which tray are you speaking of? An aftermarket or a gmpp tray? I'm in for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 GMPP tray. I'll post up the part number in a few and a picture tomorrow. I have a 417 LSA block engine and 416 LS3 block at work with that tray on it. I've used quite a few of them, very nice to have. If you ever need odd part numbers I have a huge list in the general section of this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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