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Krambo

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Posts posted by Krambo

  1. Damn Kevin. Wish i would have know you still had yours. Would have saved me some cash and put some in your pocket. I had to pay $310 shipped. :icon_bs:

     

    Damn, I would have let it go for $75!

     

    When installing the converter bolts be sure the bolts don't bottom out in the tapped hole. I had one brand or maybe even stock that would have bottomed out before actually tightening. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

     

    Exactly. I mated the converter to the FP once installed and measured the depth. The converter bolts I had used with my factory FP were too short IMHO (only got about 1-2 thread engagement). I looked up ARP and found they offered 2 different lengths. From what I recall, I used the longer ones so I can have more bite into the converter pads. I double checked the depth and the length of the converter bolts from ARP and they were perfect (didn't bottom out and had several turns before tight). BTW, I use red Loctite on the converter bolts...some do, some don't.

     

    From the pictures of your FP, I can't tell if it is painted or not. Mine was powdercoated from the factory. If you do have paint or powdercoat, I recommend lightly sanding down the areas where the converter mates to the FP and the FP mates to the engine. I have heard stories from the LS1 crowd where the paint disintegrated under the mounting areas and caused the bolts to become loose. Regardless, I sanded mine before install and when I tore her down 2 years+ later, it was as tight as the day I installed it.

     

    Good luck! You have some quality pieces there!!!

  2. You have to email hpt support and ask for the latest copy of the beta version. Include your serial number also.

     

     

    It is the MAP reading not the MAF, I will try loading that cfg file. Not sure how to post a screen shot, It must be something with my beta version seem's to work fine for you.

     

     

    Guys, Version 2.24 is now out that has been verified to be a stable version and suitable for the public. Time to download the newest version and get rid of the beta 2.23. Depending on what revision of the beta version you are using, there were some bugs.

     

    Log into your HPT account and go to the "Customer Center". You should see the download link for the 2.24. It has been out for about 3 weeks now.

     

    Also, there is no need to E-mail support for beta versions. The newest revisions will be immediately available for download in your "Customer Center".

  3.  

    I dont wanna get too off topic, but you said you could run 22psi on a stock block with a procharger with no issues. Do believe i could do the same with TVS on a block like mine?

     

    You will be close to overspinning the TVS 2300 at those boost levels which will wreck the blower bearings (already been there with a friend). This will require an overdriven crank pulley, jackshaft style 2300 with cog pulley upgrade, and an 8-rib pulley set-up (10 preferred).

  4. Looking forward to seeing the build! I estimate you will need 1200-1300HP at the wheels to comfortably be in the 9's @ 140MPH trap speed (weighing in at the typical 5500# loaded SS weight). Suspension and gearing will play a big part as well.

     

    Turbo is the way to go IMHO!

  5. Search my name and flexplates on here and you should get info about when I changed. I ran a hughes for awhile because it was the lightest aftermarket one, and after i tore the center out of it I bought a tcs and have not looked back. Very nice flexplate. If memory serves krambo ran the same on his monster

     

    I think I read in your post the drivetrain loss will be 6%....no

     

    I think I also read a converter will increase hp?....no

     

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

     

    Yes, I ran the same FP as Brad. Heavy duty, high quality piece but does have some weight to it.

     

    BTW, if you want mine, I have it in the garage with 3 ARP converter bolts. Absolutely nothing wrong with it, clean. Send PM if you are interested.

  6. BigStuff3 is the cat's ass for individual cylinder tuning.

     

    "Sequential fuel control for up to 16 cylinders Individual cylinder fuel and spark control Smart and dumb Coil-on-Plug capable Injector phasing, at the start and end of injection events Configurable Load & RPM axes"

     

    As for running dual widebands...go for it.

  7. A stock lq9 with full bolt ons will be in mid 90s IDC. A camed lq9 should be past the 100% IDC. On stock injectors Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

     

    That is about what I have seen in the past as well...depending on cam choice and RPM at shift point.

  8. If you want to do the Car style manifold, you can see what I did in my build link. Link is in my signature below. I used a FAST 92 and did a bunch of customizing to make it work. The short runners of the car manifold will improve up top horsepower but at the expense of a bit of low end TQ (generally).

     

     

    If you are interested, I have all the pulleys, idler pulley relocation bracket, modified PS bracket and such in my garage. I will let it go CHEAP.

  9. Sounds like dealing with Dodge on our minivan. Bought new - brakes were gone by 12k. I yelled at the wife for "beating on it" and did a brake job with "hi performance aftermarket parts". The new pads and rotors were gone by 26k.

     

    TSB came out, I complained to the dealership and since I replaced the worn brakes myself, there was nothing they could do so I paid for a brake job at the dealership. The replacement brakes (done by the dealership) were gone by 40k. I figure I am in the clear to have them replaced at thier cost only to find out I was out of the warrenty mileage and was told to FO.

     

    My suggestion - bitch and moan to anyone that is available and do it early and often. There is a customer satisfaction department GM has that should be notified as well...as many times as possible.



    Sounds like dealing with Dodge on our minivan. Bought new - brakes were gone by 12k. I yelled at the wife for "beating on it" and did a brake job with "hi performance aftermarket parts". The new pads and rotors were gone by 26k.

     

    TSB came out, I complained to the dealership and since I replaced the worn brakes myself, there was nothing they could do so I paid for a brake job at the dealership. The replacement brakes (done by the dealership) were gone by 40k. I figure I am in the clear to have them replaced at thier cost only to find out I was out of the warrenty mileage and was told to FO.

     

    My suggestion - bitch and moan to anyone that is available and do it early and often. There is a customer satisfaction department GM has that should be notified as well...as many times as possible.

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