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Krambo

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Posts posted by Krambo

  1. There is only a few wires on your truck's OBD-II plug that function for the HPT communication. Reading from the top left of the plug, pin 1 and goes to pin 8. The bottom pins go from 8 to 16, reading like a book from left to right.

     

    Pin 16 is your battery voltage and can be tested by taking a volt meter to it and a chasis ground. Check it to be sure you are seeing good voltage, both with the key on and key on with various components on.

     

    Pin 4 is your chasis ground. Check that you have continuity on that pin and it isn't an open circuit.

     

    Pin 5 is your signal ground. This is why I asked if you can use the VCM scanner to control timing and such ON THE FLY. If you can, this ground wire is most likely fine. With the engine running, see if you can use the VCM controls to shift up a parameter that you can recognize a real time change in...such as AFR. Advance AFR to like 19 and see if the truck stumbles and shuts off.

     

    Pin 2 is you signal. For Gm it is a VPW signal and must operate between 3.5 to 7 volts. If it goes above or below, you will get a fault code when flashing from what I underrstand. I am not a PLC expert so take it for whatever it is worth...just another avenue to explore.

     

    If you have another person with HPT nearby and has an unlocked year for your truck, try flashing with his cable. If it works, your cable is messed up. Have you committed a license other than your truck with your current IO cable? If so can you flash the other vehicle without issue?

  2. Lost some siding, shingles and about 6 large trees. Power just came back this morning however went out again. Broke out the kerosine heaters and been cooking on the grill the past few days. I work in NJ and CANNOT believe the lines at the gas stations (that are open). No kidding, they are 300 cars deep. I know of several stations in PA with no lines if anyone in NJ needs a sure bet on fuel...just PM me and I can give you the address.

  3. IMHO, it is electrical...nothing wrong with the PCM, laptop. If I was in this situation, I would

     

    1. Pull the on-star fuses prior to writing the new tune.

    2. Ensure you have no inductive loads running (fans, intercooler, fuel pumps, stereo amplifer etc.) If you do, this will cause some issues.

    3. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FLASH WITH THE LAPTOP PLUGGED INTO AN INVERTER RUNNING OFF YOUR TRUCK.

    4. Try flashing (write cal only) with your parking lamps on. (I had to do this for some reason on a TBSS and could not figure it out. With the DRLs on, it would read but without them on, it would give some error).

    5. Re-read your current tune AGAIN, make the change and reflash. Make sure the scanner isn't connected the same time you are attemting to flash.

    6. Are you running BETA or the current publically available version?

    7. There is a grounding issue with the PCM. While the grounds may look good, a broken wire, stray voltage etc. may be hurting you.

     

    Just my thinking.

  4. You are running E-85 correct? I personally haven't tuned a high boost E-85 set-up so I really cannot comment on the spark advance in those conditions...all set-up are different and there is no set correct number. What I will say is you should be running a "7" series plug with that much boost, IMHO anyway. I am currently tuning a 25lb boosted 370 and the 7's are barely cold enough. Add in a little spray, the cylinder pressure and temperatures go through the roof, requiring a much colder plug. I saw an improvement on KR simply by going to a recessed tip colder plug. Reading the plug after a high boost run will be able to tell you if you need to go a 1/2 step colder yet (8 range).

     

    Trick with adding juice and a good amount of boost is the AFR. Boost tends to require a bit of a rich condition to remove cylinder temperature and cushion detonation. Nitrous on the other hand is "safer" in the less rich conditions...regardless of what you hear on the net. If you run too rich of a mixture, you risk unburnt fuel (mixture) pooling under the rings. In a boosted condition it isn't really a concern however adding a strong oxidizer (Nitrous oxide), you have the potential to blow out the rings. Take a look at a vast majority of engine failures on juice (yellow bullit.com). More often than not, a ring land blew out causing further engine damage. Sooooo, finding the AFR balance to compliment both high boost and nitrous is tricky. Adding a recessed plug with the correct temperature is a must IMHO. Now the recessed plug is igniting the mixture at a different location in the combustion chamber so you may have different Octane and timing requirements than with a projected tip.

     

    A colder plug may give you some idle challenges and plug fouling if the tuning is off however giving your truck a WOT blast every so often usually cleans off the plugs nicely! BTW, if you do run Nitrous and high boost, use fresh plugs and do not buy the special platinum or IR plugs. Standard copper core with a tight gap.

     

    ...Can't wait to see your track times!!!! She is going to haul the mail!

  5. I have the same blower you have as you!.... I can tell by your signature-- I have a 2.8 pully

     

     

    on 9-9-05 I crashed a new CTS

    I wasn't wearing my seat belt and got ejected

    I broke T-5 and T-12 in my back. T-5 is up by your chest, T-12 is your waist

    3 broken ribs, punctured lung

    frontal brain injury

    left femur break

     

    cart-wheeled a CTS at 88mph. down a embankment

     

     

    Wow. Terrible accident however I sense your desire to make others aware of your misfortune. Kudos for not stopping your love of vehicles. I myself broke 4 vertebrae and am lucky to be able to walk today. Unlike you, I will not have anything to do with my foe (Snowmobile).

     

    Nice collection you have there!

  6. I have a low mileage (50k), mint interior 03. Stock other than a full stainless exhaust, bedrug and a BSER roll pan. Available in a few options:

     

    1. As a roller - no engine or trans. Will come with shafts, t-case etc. - $9,500

    2. As a disassembled complete truck. Stock LQ9/65E and ALL necessary hardware comes with the truck - $11,500.

    3. Fully assembled, tuned - $14,900. (will be 6-8 weeks out).

  7. Washington Nj??? Is that Warren County? If so, I could find some time to throw your truck on my laptop and run a few logs for you. It will give you a bunch of data that can pinpoint your issue. Shoot me a PM (private message) and we can talk.

     

    How many miles on her?

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