riddle
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Posts posted by riddle
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UPDATE:
feeew! Jus had an intense conversation with the machine shop. I stayed mosly calm but it did get a little heated on both ends. This Is the very best I could get out of them:
They will refund my original bill, bout $400, resleeve it using a step sleeve design, and assymble my Long block with my supplied head gaskets and piston and ring I allready bought.
(and put a 6month/6kmi warrenty on the Long Block)
I think this is there absolute best without going to court. They again put everything on the supercharger as always and they didn't want to put themselve into a further position of liability.
Took alot for me to get that much! Havn't fully accpeted it yet, but thats whats on the table?
What do you guys think? ??
Thank's Danny
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Thank's, BTW the cylinder head has some pitting head and on the intake valve. They are LS6 CNC proted heads, (yes MR.P they do say "243" on them).per a previouse conversation.
Doesn't seem real bad IMO? Maybe ring chunks been hitting it? should I push the Issue on the haed? Should I maybe try to get some Labor out of them? You all have been really helpful here. Let me Know!
Thanks, Danny
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Parts of sleeve laying in the pan, and another pic of the slid down sleeve from the top.
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UPDATE:
I finally got back, and pulled my engine apart in the frame. The problem found was The #7 Cylinder sleeve came loose!
If You look close, on the top, you can see where the sleeve slid down, and on the bottom you can see where the rod broke the bottom of the sleeve out.
I have a 1000mi on this set up, I am not a machinest, but I dont really see how this is not the machine shops fault? I breifly talked to them and I was very polite, and they said that they would redo the block and maybe even throw in a gasket set. But I have to pull the engine and comlpetely disaasymble it and bring it to them, not to mention it wiped out my 110$ JE piston and $40 ring set. I dont really have ability to pull the engine myself right now. my garage barely fits the truck and it -20 degrees outside! What should I DO or say? Opinions would help please.
Thank's Danny
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Document ID# 1551943
Condition
Some customers may comment that the ABS light, Service Brake System message comes on intermittently during initial start-up. The condition does not cause a DTC to be stored permanently.
Cause
engines, though it can occur on vehicles with gasoline engines as well.
The cause may be a timing issue related to the cranking/starting of the vehicles. It appears that the condition is more likely to occur on vehicles with diesel
<A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=1551943&psdid=437&evc=sm#ss3-1551943"> <H3>Correction
Reprogram the EBCM with TIS software version 7.5, released July 26,2004 or newer. Refer to Service Programming System (SPS) (SI Document ID #1451930).
Turbocoop is right, I have done many of these, this is the current fix, I supplied the doc id from gm at the top.
~Danny
</H3>
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Thank's for the link! I love his sketch! Clearly I had no Idea how a turbo worked, maybe I can take this sketch to the shop tomorow and starighten some of my fellow mechanics out!
Thank's Dan
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Bump for today
How much warrenty left on truck? Jus Base?
Thank's Dan
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Welcome!
ditch the flares and find some used SS Clading! They make the truck.
LOL.No, Really sounds Like it will look good!
~Dan
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I just found out that my idler arm and pitman arm is shot. Does anybody have the part numbers for these two parts? Also, can any body give me step-by-step directions on how to change them?
the dealer should have no problem getting you those numbers,
the Idler arm is REAL easy, (pitman arm not so much)
tools you will need: pitman arm puller (low profile preferbally) Matco has a nice one. Pickle fork to separate the joint from the steering bar.
If your good, you can undo the 3, 21mm bolts( I think all of them are 21mm, or maybe jus 2500 trucks) that attach gearbox to frame, and angle the gear box so you can get your puller on.
on the idler, remove the 21mm nut at steering bar, detach joint at steering bar w/pickle fork. remove the 3 21mm that attach the idler to frame and its off. ohh and you need to remove the plastic splash sheild.
Like to help a fellow Alaskan!
Dan
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there is only one thing bothering me tho i keep getting a MAF code i forget the number, but it it makes the truck run rough...i think it was a MAF performance code i'll have to re check. but i checked for leaks no leaks...checked valve train...checked compression and everything is good. i duno if i need it retuned like im going to do. it just puzzles me cuz i had it tuned then i put the long tubes on and now its acting like this. i cleared the code and it ran fine for 2 seconds then came back..i guess i'll have to see when i go get it retuned. i have just recently heard people loseing the number 7 cylinder due to the intake but it all seems fine. should i change the intake to be safe? what kind of options do i have? or is that a rare problem?
thanks, adam
Adam,
I think you know where I stand, LOL. I wouldn't run it for a minute longer honestly. I have built many engine's, and this one was no different. So if mine went I dont see why your's wouldn't? the set up is real close.
I think It might not be a bad Idea to put a post in forced induction to see what people say you should do. Maybe some FI guys with better knowledge then u and I will post up? I would be curiouse.
~Dan
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My truck is paid for, so now the misses want one, We almost got a Charger, but I showed her the pics online, and the transformers movie helped. So were saving up for a 09'. (plus I have HPTuners!
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Hey, I'm new, die hard Chevy fan, helped dad build a '71 Chevelle SS 454, '77 Monza Mirage, '74 Nova, and at 18, finally got my own wheels, at '99 2.2 2WD S10.
The next car I am going to get will be a Silverado SS, just here to live and learn.
Thanks
COOL truck! I went form a 2000 S10 2.2L, to a 2003 Silverado SS. I still have my S10 and drive it more then the SS.
Welcome
~Dan
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Reflashed it with the Sct tune and the truck is still running like absolute garbage...Spent 45 mins on the phone with some of the guys from Vortech and they are stumped too, what a help that was hehe...I have him cleaning his mass air-t/b tonight and he's going to bring it by the shop tomorrow and let me take a little more in depth look at it with an oscilliscope and a few other things so I can at least try to narrow it down.
The Maf was reading 2700-2800hz at idle and it was still skipping, the o2 sensor mV's were all over the place as well nothing remotely steady...Afr was at a steady 14.6, BUT when I put the engine under a load, it never changed at all!
Also, what should the plugs be gapped at while he's running only 8#'s...He has new autolites in it right now.
I have a vortech on my 03, plugs are gaped @ .040, i run close to 10lbs. (Delco all the way)
Not sure what scanner your using? Tech 2 would be Ideal. With GM you always diag the code with lowest number first, ie P0101. (potentailly could be setting other codes)
I havn't seen a spec in hertz for a maf, but if your scanner is able to watch grams per second:
The MAF display should increase from 42-50 g/s at idle to 420 g/s or more at the 2-3 shift during a wide-open throttle (WOT) acceleration.
Clean it first, and verify.
~Dan
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this may not apply with your charger, but.... On my Vortech blower I had somebody hold pressure on the belt tensioner, while I hit the wrench w/ a rubber mallet.
Also for the pully removal from the shaft, I heated the pully up with a torch, and it slid off effortlessly.
For best results, call the manufacture up and they will be more then happy to tell you how to change pully's.
~Danny
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did you mark all your guages on a peice of paper before you begain replacemnet?
if so i would keep trying to reset it to that.
or u can can guess roughly how far out they are and pull them off and reset accordingly.
Ive installed a couple set's of New Image Designer guage's on fords and chevy, seems they are always a hair off, nothin crazy.
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Nice set up, I run a similer 408ci w/ vortech blower
what's your compression ratio?
What size pully?
How much boost are you seeing?
How many mile on your current set up?
Thank's Dan
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Welcome to the site!
I know how ya feel! I really wanted BLACK, and ended up with RED. Still happy though. Now red is my prefered color, lol! weird??
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Thank's Mr.P
The machinest Only wanted my piston, I never gave him the rings??
As for the plug it looked fuel fouled, ( wet, carboned up ) the rest were white-ish.
I only wanted to do the piston in the truck cause:
I have a 24ft garage and a 20ft truck, lol. last time I pulled the engine I did it outside, 70 degrees.
Now the temps are 0 degrees!
from the pricing I am finding, to set my truck up right, w/new intake, injectors, intercooler, and IAT mod It is gonna set me back another 4 thousand! Guess I have to do it though, lol
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UPDATE:
Hey, everyone thanks for the help and insight as to what is going on with my truck,specially in the programming department.
Status at this point is the rings in #7 are not sealing. the piston (70%) that I could see looked good. I added oil to the cylinder and compression would be right with the rest of them. treid to free rings up, the cylinder would fire occasionally, my code switched fro p0300 to p0307.
Gonna try to pull the piston with it still in the Engine still in the truck.
Any Ideas on what could ruin those rings??? That is the same cylineder I had a sleeve put in, but they set the cylinder wall clearence to those pistons.?? heat maybe??
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i ran svo 42s N/A and they were at 75% duty cycle
for boost and 408i would look into some 96# injectors and as for that intake plenty of setups over on tech running the ls2/ls6 intake producing 1xxx rwhp. and in some result the carb'd intake produced less power then the LS2/LS6 intake
Looking at my Log, ( INJ. Duty cylce is @ 98% , TPS 100%, 5854 peak RPM. )
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UPDATE:
Just checked on the cylinder w/ bore scope, I could only see bout 70% of the piston and it looked good,(Hell I was excited to see it was still there)
So I added 5w40 inot the cylinder and the comp. rised from about 5psi dry, to 108 psi wet. Telling me that my rings are shot? Still wondering what that erratic rattle might be? Ring chunks? not sure? all the other cylinders are 150psi dry.
anybody change that piston while it was still in the truck? Maybe I will have to yard the head off tommorow. SUCKS, (also spark plug wasn't beat up like last time I blew up.
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I have 42lbs injectors, thanks for the help, who can test them? also I have an extra set of 8 brand new injectors 42lbs, maybe I should check those too?
Thank You, Dan
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well another thing in question is your tune. what is your afr during boost? when changing pullies a new tune is mandatory.
as for the maf/iat on the boosted side my maf is pre blower but i have installed an iat sensor before the tb on the boosted side.
btw that psi is high for a 408 , i was seeing 11-12 psi with a 3.1 on my stock 6.0 i just hope i can get 15 psi with a 2.7 on my new 370.
I only have the standered version of HPT,so I dont know how to get afr, w/o wide band, is it possible?
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Chase, Thanks for the insight, thought it was weired to do this twice?
I like the intake, especially haveing the MAF/IAT on the boosted side, who makes it? I have never seen one? where do I get one? Thank's
I have the stock blower S-Trim I beleive? w/ the 3.3 pully I lost alot of boost w/408 went from 8psi to 4psi, I have installed a 2.8 inch pully and got the 408 boosted too 9-10 psi
Cam spec is 550 lift intake and exhaust, and 204/218 duration int/exh. ( stock 02 Z06 cam )
also running Z06 CNC gm performance heads, kinda did the build based of the SA Designs book how to Hot Rod gen 3 chevy.
#7 Cylinder Prone To Failure?
in Engine Tech And Modification
Posted
Hey, thank's, They will not do anything with the removal. they are jus a machine shop. they will re-assymble the long block, cause they do build engines. (but wont touch engine's with power adders.)
Thank You though!
~Danny