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riddle

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Posts posted by riddle

  1. Ok, I screwed up! I PM'd TZER, it is billet Aluminum!

     

    In My defense! LOL it does not look like it. it may have been billet at one time, but it is definately stamped.

     

    it is thin. and stamped into shape, not Like a CNC Piece. I am Sorry! :(

     

    to each there own. Not baggin on people that run them. I like how my tail lights and 3rd brake match my paint! lol

     

    ~Danny

  2. "to do so yes you have to unbolt the control arms from the truck and take to someone with a press and have them remove & replace the joint but the labor to do this is usually pretty minor."

     

     

    As a newbie, probably shouldn't step on any toes, but as a automotive service technician for the past 35 years, and a front suspension/alignment specialist for the past 12 years,,,, THIS IS INSANE!!!

     

     

    The upper balljoints are held on with rivets(originally, replacements come with bolts) while hard to remove, a press has nothing to do with the process. Best home removal would start with drilling smaller than actual diameter holes through all 4 rivets holding BJ in place, then redrill with larger bits untill rivet is almost completely removed. Then cut off lower rivet head with chisel, and chisel/hammer rivet shells out as ball joint is removed. At my shop, all this is done with a heavy duty SnapOn air chisel.

     

    Lower balljoints are pressed in, but lower controll arm isnever removed for replacment. a C-clamp style press is used (available as a rental from most parts store chains) to remove and replace. If lower controll arm is removed, torsion bars must be completely backed off to relieve tension, then ride height must be reset! Getin' pretty DEEP here!!

     

    Respcfully,

     

    Bob

     

    Bob, I am suprised in 12 years off doing only front ends, you have never actually done a 99 and up silverado? :confused:

     

    The 88-98 use the bolt on upper ball joints. the newer trucks it is common practice to replace the WHOLE Upper A-ARM. jus for the ball joint.

     

    As far as the lower goes, you can easily beat the lower ball joint out with a BFH, but then must use a ball joint press for instalation, make sure to coat ball joint w/ sleeve retainer for added safety.

     

    Hope that Help?

     

    Respectfully Danny

  3. I wouldnt do it, if you still want a sport truck. It will require more money to make the Diesel go faster. And it will still be fowl handling.

     

    there is only so much easy stuff u can do, and because of the weight of the vehicle , u still dont have that low of an E.T., programed with CAI, will prolly jus get u into 14's. for a $1000. bucks. :D

     

    As far as Marine Injectors Being an "EASY Change"? :nono: thats a 15hr job on a "LBY" motor. and a good 7hr on the "LLY" and "LBZ" Motor. (ALso Deisel Inectors "OEM" can rival the cost of a used blower)

     

    Now the Kicker is, If you up the power on a D-Max 200H.P, u will throw that Allison Tranny into limp home mode right away. They need Internal Modification to Handle Higher H.P :dunno:

     

    Note: The 2006 & 07 Models " with all the emmission stuff" :confused: or set up for low sulfer fuel! ("LBZ" Engine)

     

    Will destroy the previouse 05 and Earlier LLY, and LB7 engines. (it is waaay faster! :driving: 345hp, 660 ftlbs of tourque.

     

    Also, note: in 2004 they ditched the waste Gate, and went too a Variable Vain turbo! Much Better IMO.

     

    Check on the Diesel Forums and research and price out what u want to do first. Either way they are both fine truck's, and Good Luck :thumbs:

     

    ~Danny

  4. Hey im totally new to chevy, usually a import guy. I've been lookin at the forum for a while and I found a 05 Silverado SS at a dealer here for$21900, with only 26,xxx miles. I thought it was a sweet deal. Anyways just wanted to say hey. Later

     

    :withstupid: That is a sweet deal! What dealer is this? Maybe if you dont snatch it, I will! :cold: , lol

     

    Welcome!

     

    ~Danny

  5. I don't know where I heard this or why I think this but I have always thought of a vehicle with torsion bars as not handling as well as a vehicle with coils springs. Please don't take that as a knock on the SS because I have heard great things about the way these trucks drive. That is why I am here!

     

    -Is this all BS and I am wrong or does a 2wd truck have an advantage with coils springs and steering rack.

    -Or does the awd make up for any compromises in the front susupension that had to be made to accomodate the front drive train.

     

    Thanks!

    Newb from DFW.

     

    In the SS, the 2wd and AWD have the same suspension/Chassis. I wouldn't get to cought up in comparing the chassis. :confused:

     

    Qusestion is: do you want 2 wheels pushing you? Or 4 wheels pulling you? :dunno:

     

    You have to figure that out by driving them both! u will find a split decision on this site. (I am an AWD guy.)

     

    ~Danny

  6. I like the Black with the red stripe! :thumbs:

     

    It is gonna look really SIK when your cruizing down the highway!

     

    If You Like it, I would go with it!

     

    You have to remeber, people are scrared of change, people that dont accept that look, it will probably grow on them, once more people start doing it? :cheers:

     

    Case in point, 8 years ago, most people said 20" wheels were Lame! and made fun of me!

    Now 20" is factory wheel and socially accepted as "Good Looking". :dunno:

     

    Hope that help's.

     

    ~Danny

  7. im not

     

     

    how come your red looks "dull"

     

    Not sure, Woody? Maybe My Camera suck's? It is really flat light outside, and if i take 5 pic's only 1 will usually turn out. LOL

     

    Note: If you look by the tail light there's a reflection of a street light, and my bushes reflect on the body. So it is pretty glossy. :dunno:

     

    Thank's for the Crtique. :jester: lol

     

    ~Danny

  8. I Like the Black touque thrust. ( I think they make a six spoke one, in a six lug)

     

    Definatelly only buy 22" wheels (IMO)

     

    Never run an adapter, :nono: those are lame on so many level's.

     

    Offest on stock 20's are +22.

     

    Negative offset, makes the tires stick out past the wheels well's, (truck will look like a skate board)

     

    More Positive offset pulls the wheels closer to the frame.

     

    Personally I try to shoot for about as much positve offset as I can get away with on lowered street truck's, so you can tuck the Fender if needed.

     

    hope that helps

     

    ~Danny

  9. looks real good im still thinkin bout geting the stripes on my self but not sure yet where did u get urs from

     

     

    Actually, a Local sign and graphic shop did it for me. they intsalled them too.

     

    The Cool Part was, they took a Picture of my truck, loaded it into ther computer, and started designing it right in front of me, so I was able to get it precise.

     

    Also, the Lettering on the front is another sticker, so it can be changed anytime. the 408ci kinda takes the sleeper out of it.

     

    I might move my "SS" Logos to the tip of the stick? :dunno:

     

    Thank's for the compliment!

     

    ~Danny

  10. I have the Ported 243's on my truck as well as the z06 cam, I like them, can build great power with them, and there GM product :thumbs: . (note: the 243's have a .6mm longer valve stem, so Base circle and push rod length will be important.)

    I think as far as Performance, street/strip racing. the converter is probably going to be best bang for the buck! should definately get that.(IMO)

     

    A Good Book, For building these engines up, specially utilizing GM parts:

     

    How to Build High-Performance

    Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s

     

    By, Will Handzel

     

    Pretty quick Read, Easy to Follow and Understand. Lot's of DYNO test in the book for "Proven Power"

     

    ~Danny

  11. Hey, Thank's for checkin this out!

     

    I've been wanting Hockey sticks for about a year, but I didn't dig the current ones on the market as much. :tear:

     

    So, I finally found somebody to make them to my specs! Let me know how they look! :dunno: lol

     

    I have custom lettering in black on the tip, and the tip is wider, bout all that I wanted different. :thumbs:

     

    ~Danny

     

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  12. Note: One thing U may consider is an( air to air ) vs an (air to Water) set up.

     

    Air to Air is going to be cheaper. Not sure if U noticed, but the Kit that guy is selling u on PT.net is an air-air kit for $600.

     

    Also, about half those guys that replied to your post were running air to air.

     

    From what I have read, for a street truck, air to air is better? disapates heat better?

    sposidly, the coolant heat soak's after awhile and you start warming your air charge?

    But, for Drag Racing, the air to water, is Waaaaay better, cause you can add Ice and run very very cold coolant, and reduce IAT's alot.

    (Please Guru's Correct me on any of this as I am a Rookie)

    I think the whole Idea of Meth is pretty good, but I imagine it would be harder to tune and set up properly, due to placement of the IAT? It would be hard to determine what the actuall charge temp would be.

     

    My Pan is to Run my truck once I move my IAT, see what My IAT Readings are, and compare those reading to people with like setup's and , and air to air, vs, air to water. might not be worth doing if the air to water isn't running 20 degrees cooler at least?

  13. NOTE: 2003 model year has a return type fuel system :thumbs: (many beleive this to be a stronger fuel system for power adders!

     

    Also, AWD is great for the "LAUNCH", most people with 400hp 2wd's spin on full launch, AWD w/stock converter could easily put all off 450hp to the ground with ANY slip.

     

    Good Luck! there are plenty of 03's blown , out the for a great price!

     

    ~Danny

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