2003_SuperSport

Also you might as well budget some minnimum 40# injectors too at $400. with a cam and heads install. The Radix or TVS comes with them already in the price.

LMAO....No this is

By the way you should seriously consider FI. Those 5.3's love boost and you won't regret it. Heads- $1200, Cam-$400, install-$600-1000, =$2200-$2600. Used Radix $3000-$3500 and is DIY if you have any mechanical abilities. And with the radix its all the low end torque you want and more power is a pulley away.

If you plan on adding more and more stuff to your truck you need to decide if you want to stay NA or go FI in the future. That will determine where to start as to what cam to get. I personally got the Comp XR275HR 222/224 .566/.568 112LSA which is a awesome NA cam and sounds freaken great. But also got it before I was FI which if I knew I was going FI in the near future at that time I would have got a different cam. Not saying this cam hurts my performance but a different cam could of yeilded me a fraction more. And I want as much as I can get.

You're going to here this from alot of people on here that it all depends on what you future mods are going to be. If all you want to do is put in a cam it and leave it. It may not be worth your trouble. Get a tune first then plan on going through all your bolt ons ie: exhaust, CAI. Then if your still not satisfied think about some heads and a cam. Or just throw a Radix on it and call it a day. Also read the stickies found this in less than a minute and has good info- http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/51957-cam-choice-guide-and-question-post/

+1 for steel.

Welcome lots and lots of great info on here

A pic of me spearing a Buffalo Carp. My wife on the lake with her big walleye and a pic after we mounted it.

Thanks bud. I am just getting a plan together before I go out and do anything. I have read hours upon hours if not days of online info on hptuners forum and ls1 tech and a bunch of other forums as well as reading greg banish's book. I am kind of a perfectionist with my work and want it done right the first time... Even when I was working at my fathers shop he would tell me to hurry up after a repair because I would clean it up nicer then when we got it. Not saying that we didn't clean up I was just more of a perfectionist and nit picky.

Question about scanning... What scanning procedure should I follow such as how long do I let it scan in idle, driving in gear down the road (MPH, RPM ranges and how long) and WOT runs? And how long does a typical scan take to get accurate results? I want to get the best possible data for tuning and editing. I have a wideband for WOT operation too. Finally a question that has been probably answered a hundred times. When tuning with wideband for a lightly modified car such as exhaust, CAI, typical bolt ons, can i just use one of the rear post cat o2's. I under stand it may skew the AFR a little but some tuner shops use a sniffer so it has to be better than that and post cat wideband for a stockish vehicle should sufficient enough to tune at least better than with no Wideband right? Or do you think it is just better off puting it in the front o2 spot and running in open loop like previously discussed with The_aSSt^^^? I want AFR readings throughout the rpms in closed and open loop operations.

Did you have this on your SSS and or will it work on the SSS?

Red adds 100 more HP/TQ in the eyes of the law. LOL. Welcome to the site bro and be careful of your bank account as it will suddenly drain as if there was a hole in the vault.

What did that M82 run ya for price? I would love to have a Barrett. I'd be happy with a M95 too!!

Thanks for the info. BTW My SSS doesn't have cats so putting the WBO2 in the rear deleted 02's would work. But for a friend or family's vehicle that still has cats I don't beleive after the cat is an ideal spot to take a wideband reading. Thats what I have read. Plus I don't think most people want to run Speed Density open loop very much especially in DD's and areas that has drastic tempeture and elevation changes such as up here in Northern Minnesota. I may run open loop due to my truck only driven in the summer and driven hard .

I am in the same boat to borrow one gents. Been running my radix awhile with out one and I think its about time lol before something bad happens. I'll pay for shipping no problem just don't want to drop a benjamin on a tool I won't use again. Also- what are all of you using for dowls? Just steel rods?

AHAA The 69' GTO Judge w/ the 400HO ram air lV with Tach on the hood. My favorite muscle car. Or 70' GTO Judge with the 455HO

I got my HP tuners suite Pro and been reading gregs book and am about half way done. Lots of information to retain I will probably be reading it more than once LOL. I think the only thing I feel comfortable to mess with is the trans LOL. I understand most of the principles on how an engine works and functions I just need to know how to read the info on the tables converted to numbers and decimals lol. I am super pumped and will be doing some scans of my vehicles to look over. BTW. does anyone have a stock 2003 SSS pcm scan or calibration files I can look at through hptuners. I have had mine tuned by wheatley and never seen what my factory calibration and ve tables looked like. I know there are some samples of other cars on hptuners website but I want to see a stock file with no modifications. I also purchased a NGK AFX wideband kit to help with my tunes. Its my understanding that I can pull a existing NBO2 sensor and put the wideband in its location and scan with that as long as the pcm stays in open loop. Now my question is should I just do a idle scan or do you think I could drive it in open loop recording my driving conditions when closed loop usually is performed but the main reason for driving it is for WOT operation and tuning is when a PCM enters open loop again on its own. In short I want to acurately tune for open loop idle and WOT with a temporarly fixed wideband. I want to use the NGK as a portable wideband tool and don't want to weld a bung in every vehicle I tune. For my SSS I will have a fixed WBO2 welded right behind the exsisting NB02 but thats my personal baby.

Being this is your first hand gun I am assuming you have little experience in hand guns and would recommend first to take a basic firearms class locally or through the NRA. Then before just buying a hand gun you should shop around and find the right one that fits comfortably and is easy to operate. Home defense, you should probably stick with a shotgun until you get more comfortable with a hand gun. But IMO a 1911 .45ACP is very imitating and will have all the knock down and range inside a house that you'll ever need. Very heavy pistol but very reliable and if you run out of bullets you can use it as a club. lol. Even if the perp is wearing body armor he wont be feeling good after. If you plan on getting a permit to carry I'd recommend somthing lighter than a 1911 such as a springfield XD series or glocks. 9mm-.40cal.

I have a Springfield XDm 9mm and it is awesome. Holds 19 rounds and have a mag extender in one to hold 28. Who needs an AR when I have an assault pistol LOL. IMO i'd get the XDm since it has the match barrel, better trigger, adjustable backstraps, more agressive grip, disassembly without pulling the trigger, larger mags, and a few other subtle things. And is only like a hundred more dollars. They are slightly longer than the other models but they feel just right in the hand and comfortable and light (unless you have all 19 rounds in the mag then it is kinda heavy but thats alot of ammo lol)

I have always used M1 but can get some amsoil for just as much and heard great things about it. Just for the sake of argument would it just be a waste of money to use dominater race oil in a DD or would it have adverse affects on it? My truck for instance is not a DD and maybe gets 500-1000miles on it a year. It has a radix, a cam, and head work. and many more things in my signature below. It is a summer weekend warrior and track baby when i get the chance so I can careless about emissions and gas milage. When i drive it I have fun and let her have it so that's why I was thinking the race oil for the higher stress from use and mods I am putting on the engine when it does drive. Thoughts?

What are peoples thoughts on the dominator race oil by aimsoil?

Thanks for the info

From Illinois naaaa. I drove from northern MN to Jacksonville, NC in 24hrs and 33mins. So 8-10hrs from you. We both could find a place in the middle like a Wisconsin drag strip. I don't like driving my baby that far but I haven't met another SSS in many years

For sure bro. I'm super pumped but scared cause of all the parameters and could be one mistake from a bad day.