Merc Dr.
-
Posts
340 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Merc Dr.
-
-
Yes they're dirty. They've been on the side of my house for a year. You should be able to clean up the scuff marks(curb rash) with a Roloc disc and some touch up paint.
I'll have the tires removed before shipping(they're worn out). I'm thinking $200 each plus shipping or all three for $500 plus shipping.
-
Wheel 3 scuff and overall.
Center caps.
And the reason I'm not putting them on my Tahoe.
-
First wheel scuff mark then an overall shot.
Second wheel minor scuff and overall shot.
-
I'm guessing that they are the silver rims? What kind of shape are your center caps In?
What did you trade the SS in on?
Center emblems have a "peeling/flaking" look to them. But other than that they're good.
I got a 2007 Tahoe for hauling the family and snowmobiles. The SS was starting to fall apart and I didnt want to invest any more $.
I'm interested on the 3 Ss rims, send me pictures when you can thanks.
I'll try to post later today.
-
I just traded in my SS and have 3 decent stock rims for sale. One has scuff mark from swiping a curb. I'm missing the 4th rim cuz I popped a curb in an ice storm last year. It's raining today so I can't get any pix til later. I'm in northern IL. Let me know if anyone's interested.
-
There's complete rebuilt transfer cases on ebay for $1000
-
I GOT IT! I looked over everything and found that when I was reinstalling the top trans bolt I dislodged the intake tube at the throttle body by laying on it.. Hence, no MAF sensor input.
I still don't remember it revving to 6000rpm before shifting, but that's fine with me as long as that's what it's supposed to do.
-
It had this stall in it already. It was tuned by Zippy.
-
Just installed the rebuilt tranny and torque converter with 2800 stall. The battery was dsiconnected for a week. The fluids are maintaining the correct level. I took it for a test drive and it's acting goofy. When I jump on the gas it takes off like its in 2nd or 3rd gear. As it picks up some speed, all of sudden it takes off like a bat outta hell and redlines at 6000rpm before it shifts. I only drove it for 10 minutes cuz I didn't want to hurt anything. Is the computer just relearning itself? Is there any way the rebuilder mixed up 1st and 2nd gear when he put it together?
-
I believe there are 8 bolts. There are 9 holes in the bell housing, but the upper right bell housing bolt (when looking from underneath the trans) doesn't exist. The hole exists in the bell housing, but our blocks aren't tapped for it. Also the fasteners up top are actually studs, because they also act as engine grounds and they also hold the fuel line bracket. I would use a combination of extensions and wobbly sockets. And like said above, the upper-most bolt can be a pain in the ass... Last resort. remove the intake to access this bolt.
And the lines pop right out of the transmission. Theres a special tool for these clips, but a pick will work just fine. Pick out the little clips, and the line pulls straight out. Just don't lose the clips. This is very easy to do as they tend to go flying when removed.
This helped a lot. But I found the middle one wasn't as bad as the upper driver side bolt. I used a swivel head ratchet with a deep well socket.
I found it fairly easy to get at the cooler lines once I had the transfer case and crossmember out of the way. I dropped the tail of the trans down and was able to stick my head in the hole that the transfer case left to see what I was doing.
-
How many bolts hold the trans to the motor? 7 or 9?
How do I remove the tranny cooler lines? Do I need a special tool?
-
I ordered a solenoid kit. I went to install it and found this. If you have read my other topics you may remember that I replaced the torque converter a few months ago becuz it was flipping between 3rd and 4th gear. it worked for a couple months then started again. I just dropped the pan. The fluid looked good until I pulled the filter and saw fillings on the top. I cut it open and looked between the pleats. I assume this is metal. Or is it fiber from the clutch plates? I'm guessing either way it means it's rebuild time?
http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/gallery/image/8294-20140613-173537/
http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/gallery/image/8295-20140613-174606/
http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/gallery/image/8296-20140613-174644/
-
I really appreciate the help.
-
Awesome! Thanks a lot.
-
That helps a lot. Where did you end up getting the correct solenoids from? If I'm gonna drop this VB I'm gonna replace them all for good measure. Do you happen to have the parts list for this diagram to identify the rest of the parts? Or do you have the link so I can go to the website you got it from?
-
Are the solenoids all in the pan? Is the "pulse width" solenoid called anything else? I see an electrical connection on the passenger side. What does this go to? Speed sensor?
I've got another thread going about my trans locking/unlocking in 3rd and 4th. I already replaced the torque converter.
-
Well....It's doing it again. Now it's in 3rd and 4th and it doesn't matter if it's in tow/haul mode.This post and it's replies are quite surprising. Good to see you probably have the issue fixed. Hopefully you went with a bit over stock on the converter to work with the cam better. The high performance solenoids is confusing because all a solenoid does is just electronically stop and start the flow of fluid. Most high dollar trans builds use stock AC Delco replacements. This isn't a shot at you Merc, this is just telling you that if someone sold you performance solenoids they are likely stock replacements in AC Declo or Borg Warner.
Here is some info on why it didn't become noticable in 3rd gear.
The lockup in the converter works in 3rd and 4th. It is rare to see anyone tune a pcm and turn the tcc lockup off in 3rd. The reason he wouldn't have felt it do it in 3rd gear is simply that the extra rpm and gear difference takes the load off and allows the converter to lock.
Zippy, you may have misunderstood. You actually did the tune for me before you moved out west. I had trans work done a few years ago(after the tune) and they removed the high perf(corvette) servos and put stock ones in. I was told that this was the reason for the hard shifting I had. Also this would be better for my daily driving. I just recently had these new problems and replaced the converter with a 2800rpm stall which is what was in it. I don't have a high perf cam.
Out of curiosity, is there any sensor in the transfer case that would cause jerkiness while at cruising speed? I really notice it if I'm going up a slight hill. What about the servos going to hell? I can't believe the TC fixed it for 2-3 months then just gave up again.
-
I have a small trickle of antifreeze running down my inner fender well from the tank. I assume it's the overflow and not a crack. Any ideas on what would cause this? I have a 180* stat and it doesn't overheat at all.
-
Just an update. Replaced the TC, had the filter replaced, and filled with synthetic fluid. The shop looked everything over while they were in there and didn't see any other damage. I've been driving it for about 2 weeks now and so far so good.
-
It was tuned 5 years ago by Zippy. The servos were removed 3-4 years ago. I doubt tuning is the problem.
-
So I just need a new stall converter then?
-
Why would the trans work fine other then 4th gear? If I shift it into 3rd manually it runs fine. It even works fine until the it gets to 100 degrees?
-
From what I was told it's a 2800stall. I bought the truck used.
-
As an added note, I had high perf solenoids in the truck before the trans was gone through. The shop removed them and said it would help the longevity. I never had the ECM retuned after they removed them. Would this cause an issue? Like I said, it was 4 years ago.
3 stock SSS rims
in For Sale/ Wanted
Posted
No, that's the 4th wheel. I just posted it to show why I'm selling the other 3.