Merc Dr.
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Posts posted by Merc Dr.
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I've been gone a while, but I'm in need of help. I just went out in the snow to buy my son a x-mas present. I slid the truck into a curb and broke the lip off my front wheel. I need one used gray/silver stock SS wheel.
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Easy. I was sitting on the radiator, and was able to reach around the driver side of the intake with my right hand and start the threads by holding the sensor by the plug.I would suggest spraying the area with brake cleaner before removing the old sensor to clean dirt away from the hole. This will also allow you to use a spare finger to locate the hole.
How often do you get to use the phrases "reach around" and "use a spare finger to locate the hole" in a non-sexual how-to article?
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Just completed. I used a 1/4" drive flex head ratchet with a 3" extention and a 10mm socket to remove the bolt holding the MAP sensor. I was then able to rotate the sensor out of the way. I then used a 1 1/16" deep well, swivel, a 4", and 6" extension with a 1/2" drive socket for the sensor.
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I'd like used. Otherwise I'll buy a new one and paint ti to prevent rust from coming back.
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Thanks, that's the pic I was looking for.
I replaced mine twice. The first time I pulled the intake. The second I did it without having to pull it. Here's probably what's going on. The neck of the censor (where the pigtail plugs in) is really tall. You have to use a deep well socket. Use your new sensor as a reference.
I did this, but the neck of the other sensor is blocking the socket.
It looks like I can loosen that other bolt and rotate that other sensor. Do we know what that other sensor is? I don't want to move it, then find out it has to be in an exact position and end up with another problem.
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My gauge started reading 90 psi. I bought a new sensor, but I'm having trouble replacing it. It's at the back of the motor right by the firewall. I can't see anything, but I can feel another sensor right next to it and it's blocking me from getting a socket over the pressure sensor. Does anyone have a pic of what's back there or tell me how to get the other sensor out of the way? I'm going to try with a mirror, but I don't want to disturb the other sensor without knowing what it is.
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Like the title says. Mine is rusting from between the bracket and the door itself.
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So did this this event happen i June? I wasn't expecting it until the middle of July like the opening post stated. I hadn't checked the forum in awhile and now it looks like I missed it.
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That's amazing! How did you take those pix with the camera sitting on the bed cover? JK.
Glad to here you're OK. Little advice, don't sign anything from the insurance company or their lawyers for at least a couple years with those back injuries. I've known a couple people that did or took a settlement and ended up having problems long down the road. One guy had "minor" back issues that turned into nerve damage that is going on 2 years now. I don't mean to scare you, just a warning.
Good luck.
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Just remember the DJM's dont fit with a Corsa exhaust Irish brawler
Why do these not work? Or should I say, where do they hit the Corsa? Is there another brand that does work with Corsa? I was actually looking at the adjustable set up. Does anyone know if these fit?
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I'll try the cardboard(from inside the grill so it doesn't look like poo-poo) and see if that helps.
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I was told the trans doesn't shift into OD until the tranny hits 100 degrees. I know that's hard to see since our gauge starts at 100. Starting the truck and letting it run doesn't help fuel mileage. I loose about 2 MPG if I let it warm up that long. I have a 25 min drive to work and the OD doesn't kick in for 5-10 minutes. I notice about a 1-2 MPG drop in the winter. I attribute half of it to winter blend fuel and denser air (needs more fuel) and the other half to the tranny taking so long to kick in.
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Everyone(in cold regions) has seen the people with cardboard over their grilll in the winter to help the engine warm up. Would it be safe to put a cover over just the lower grill opening (on the inside so it's not visible) to help the trans warm up faster so it will get to 100 degrees faster? If I remember correctly, that's where the cooler is. I want overdrive to kick in faster to save MPG. Is there another option that would be cleaner and easier? Perhaps a valve you could install to turn on/off with the changing of the seasons? The only thing I could come up with is a T-fitting to bypass the cooler, but still allow the fluid to flow through the lines.
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Friends don't let friends drive Hemi's.
or
Mama's don't let your babies grow up to drive Hemi's.
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It's already got a 2800 stall and some minor trans work.
I was kinda looking at proven hp.
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I'm actually done being a boat mechanic so I'm not towing much anymore. After 15 years I didn't want to look at boats anymore. I even sold mine.
So I still have the urge to work on stuff and tinker and am looking at the truck again. I almost traded it in on a Camaro, but decided I still wanted a truck. I'm just going to pay it off then get a toy to play with.
I just got back on the board so I just found out about the Nats when you mentioned it. I'm sure I'll be there being it's so close.
Back to the issue at hand. Like I said, I was thinking of doing some things in the future. I'm just not sure how far I want to go or how much to spend. I thought the rockers would be a cheap, easy gain. It sounds though that it would be a safer route to go with the cam for now and forget the ratio change. I'll probably just go with the cam that comes with the Trickflow kit so I don't have to do the research when I decide to do the heads.
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I was actually debating doing a cam, or heads, or both (possibly Trickflow top end kit). I need the warm weather before I can do these because my truck is 2" too long for the garage. I was looking for something quick. I already have a Zippy tune, but I don't want to keep remapping it for little crap. I'd rather do it all at once.
Now you guys brought up another question. If I plan to do a cam swap, should I just forget the rockers, or should I consider doing both? You mentioned valvetrain stress. Should I do just the cam?
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Alright, I've seen some 1.8:1 rocker arm upgrades and need a little info. Can I just throw a set on my engine and expect any performance gain? Do I need to reprogram my ECM? Anything else I should know?
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I haven't narrowed it down yet. The first time it happened I automatically thought "crap, I gota flat" on my way to work. The second time it only lasted about 10 seconds before I goosed the throttle to see if it would go away. It went away and hasn't happened since. Right now I'm waiting nervously for it to happen again so I can get more info. That's the worst feeling, not knowing what it is or if it's going to leave me stranded on the side of the road.
Granted Firestone mechanics aren't the best , but they put it onthe rack and looked over the brakes and suspension and couldn't find anything. They had the wheels off and what not.
I'll update when/if it happens again.
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Twice in 2 days this has occurred. I was driving around 40-45mph when I heard a clunking noise that sounded just like a flat tire. It even slowed down as I started to slow down and turn into a gas station. I checked the tires and all was good. I checked to make sure there was no fluids dripping. I drove away and there was no noise.
The second time I wa doing abut the same speed. From what I recall I was just barely on the throttle holding my speed. When it strated clunking, I gave the throttle a quick burp and it went away.
I took it to Firestone over the weekend just to make sure it wasn't something obvious like a CV joint or something. They couldn't find anything and so far it hasn't happened again.
ANY IDEAS?
ps. once was less then a mile from my house, next time was about 5 miles away.
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hmm, im having sort of similar issues with mine after a tranny and tc swap. sometimes while turning at low speeds the idle drops very low and sounds like the truck is about to die, and my 1-2 shift even under light throttle is ridiculously hard. thinking it may be somewhat in the tune? i really have no idea but ill be paying attention to this thread for some info
Zach
You might want to call Wheatly. I sent an IM to Zippy who did my tune, and he told me to call him and he may be able to walk me through the cure. I'm going to do so after I take the truck back to fix the banging/clunking noise. My banging noise is not the normal shift noise. It sounds like something is broken.
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I just got my truck back from having the trans and TC fixed and it bangs when I jump on the gas. I brought it in because it was making a banging noise from 1st to 2nd as well as off the line. This was different then the normal shift kit bang. They found the rear planetary was broken and replaced one of the bands. He softened the 1st to 2nd shift since I drive this everyday so it won't break as easily. He also saw a leak at the TC and was going to seal it for me. When he openened it he found a pile of fiberous material in the bottom. He told me everything looked good and it was fom the viscous clutch. He replaced that and sent me on my way.
It no longer bangs when it shifts(probably because it shifts softer now), but it does when I jump on the gas from a standstill. Could this be a bad torque converter? It has a 2800 stall converter that they flushed when it was out. I was told that the breakage in the trans was contained in the pan and didn't make it that far forward.
The other problem I have is that they couldn't get it to idle properly. When you start it up it's fine. When you try to drive it the idle drops to 300-400rpm and sometimes dies when coming to a stop or trying to manuever around a parking lot. They tried a couple things with no luck. Do I just need to keep driving it to relearn idle?
I'm taking it back this week for the banging, but would appreciate any help for me to have this guy check out.
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I've put 20k miles on my SSBC brakes in 2 years. This spring I had a vibration. Turned out to be a warped FRONT rotor. When I had the rotor machined they said the inner side of the rotor was worn to the point there was a lip around the edge. This was about 2 months ago. Friday I noticed a grinding noise/ vibration. I took off the REAR rotors and the inner pads were worn down to nothing and had completely wore out the inner side of the rotor to the point that the vents were almost nonexistant. If this had happened on one rotor I would chalk it up to a stuck caliper, but now it is all 4 that have had some sort of excessive wear on the inner side. Has anyone else had a problem like this? I'm really pissed that I spent $475 on a brake kit that lasted all of 20k miles. I could of cheap brakes that would have lasted at least 60k.
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You don't need clear coat. I took a 3m scuff pad to mine, cleaned it, and painted it with Fusion. It's been 1 1/2 years and no chips or flaking even after hitting it with a pressure washer (from a safe distence). You don't have to remove the bumper, just the grill. The center section and the two "wings" that go between the headlights just pop out. There might be a screw or 2 at the top under the hood, don't remember, but other than that it's just held in with clips. The brake duct mesh is held to the duct with rivots. I drilled them out and refastened after I painted them. The center mesh is part of the grill. It must be masked off.
Overdrive keeps shifting up and down at cruising speed.
in AWD, Differential, & Transmission Tech
Posted
This just started this morning. I was cruising at 45mph after driving 20minutes. All of a sudden the trans started shifting up and down so that it felt like it was stuttering. I put it in Tow/Haul mode and made it the rest of the way to work. On the way home, it was fine until the trans reached temp for the OD to kick in(5 minutes) and it started again. I put it tow/haul and drove home.
Does this just sound like a solenoid problem or something internal? Is it hard to swap out solenoids? I had a shop go through the trans about 4years ago.