lilindy500

There is no circulation. Line going into the cab is cold, line coming out is warm/hot. Dealer found the fuse box under hood to be bad lol, $700 for a new one, said where the fuse goes it is loose and that is causing my switch not to work in the dash.

The accumulator is the cylinder/tank on the firewall correct? The low side line above it gets cold. Does not get frosty though. Which fan are you asking about? The heater fan in the truck?

Well my a/c has not worked since I bought my truck last year. Had it in to GM last summer and they said the a/c was overcharged. Supposedly fixed it. However, the clutch will not engage when I push the a/c button in the dash. I tried a climate control module from a friends truck and mine works in his truck, but his will not work in mine so this verifies my climate control module is working fine. Replaced the low pressure sensor as well. There also no power going to the low pressure sensor. Clutch will engage with HP Tuners when I tell it to turn on, but does not cycle. Tonight I got a neighbor to check the pressure in the a/c system. Without it running, it was 60psi on the cold side, 125psi on the hot side. Engaged the clutch with HP Tuners on my laptop, and high rose to over 200psi and low was over 100psi. Let it out so that while it was running the low was at 30psi. Within 3 mins of running the pressure rose to almost 40psi. The air is not cold at all. The low line above the condensor gets real cold, but the air in the cab is warmer than outside temp. Seems the door is not shutting off the hot air and allowing the cold air to come through. I realize I have to take the panels off under the passenger seat to find the door under there. Still don't understand why the clutch won't engage by the button in the dash. Any ideas?

SOLD

I did this mod as well. I wanted the red bushings but the place I got mine from told me 3-6 weeks. The black he got overnight and I wanted them asap. Easy to install, maybe took half hour. Did not drive much since it was done. I also installed Edelbrock IAS shocks in the front at the same time. Definately smoother, however I never went around any corner to test out the bushings.

There are 2 numbers on each bracket, 17792047 and 15182635 for the outer bracket, and the one in the center is 17792002 and 15182637. The center one is only for right side, the outer bracket is for either side. There are numbers 13 and 15 on the gmpartsdirect illustration of the 03 ss bumper. These were bought on ebay. I know the ones from GM are outrageous prices. These were pretty cheap. Working on pm'ing price. Edit: these are new never been installed, have some saw dust on them from me building my sub box.

Yes these are for the SS bumper. I will get you some part numbers and pics when I get home from work tonight. PM me your address and I an get a shipping price and go from there.

I have both brand new bumper brackets for the right side of the front bumper for sale. The bracket that goes right in front of the front tire to connect the plastic to the metal bumper underneath (actually can be used for driver or passenger side) and also the bracket that holds the center of the bumper to the metal bumper underneath. I will get pictures tomorrow, the camera is out in the truck. Make me an offer, I don't need these. SOLD

If he doesn't take it I need one. How much do you want? I only need the glass. Does it have signal in it? And made for power mirror? I never read the post right. I need a passenger mirror if you had one.

Ya from what I have been reading the VIN doesn't say exactly if its a judge. I will have to send a request in to Pontiac Historic Sites. The next funny thing is the plant it was built at. VIN 24237 0S------. The S does not represent any plant for the 1970 year. But the 0 before the letter does indeed represent 1970. Maybe I am blind but I have not been able to find the plant that is coded by "S".

Back when I was thinking about getting a Cobalt SS I was reading cobalt forums. Alot of those cars were tuned by Trifecta, from what I read people were happy with them. Not sure on the truck part though?

We've got a 1970 Pontiac GTO sitting out back in the yard. It has the Judge strips and tach in the hood, had buckets, 400 ci etc. The car has been sitting there the last 20 years. My uncle who bought it years ago for parts said he never thought it was a true Judge. But yet it doesn't look like it was ever repainted, and the judge strips are correct. Back in the early 80's I think it would have been hard to get the Judge strips, so maybe they were factory? I know someone could have put them on but in the 80's, I think it would have been hard to get them and I'm not sure back then how many people would have put them on afterwards anyways. Is there a way to tell on the VIN if its a true Judge?

Its pretty easy to build, just used a piece of carboard to get the dimensions right for the front piece, the rest I just measured as I went. It is all gonna depend how high you lifted your seat, how deep you want the box, ie: how easy you want your feet to hit the subs! I will get you some measurements tonight. I am thinking I want to build a 3rd box and make them point straight down now instead. I need 2" from sub to floor of truck, but how far infront of the back hump can it be? How much room do I need for air to move up behind the seat? Would a heavy sub rip the screws right out of the box? I only used, 5/8" MDF maybe 3/4" is better?

It says 04-06, are the 03's different? I guess I should do some reading...

I'm in Saskatoon to! I have a blue SS. I saw a Black SS on Circle Drive a few months ago, I was in my truck and I was turning off towards Walmart and I saw a black one pass by, was that you by chance? Not very many SS's in the city. I also saw another black one, could have been same truck by Idylwyld and Merlin Ford.

I am in the process of building a box to hold my 2 Alpine type r 10's facing forward. I raised my back seat up 2". Now I was sure I was going to put my amps on the back wall so I made a plate with carpet on it to install a Signal Line Driver, distribution block and sub amp and a speaker amp. Now when I fold the backrest on the seat down there is clearance for the amps, but if I fold the bottom of the seat up the back of the seat will hit the amps. Not room behind the seat. I don't want to lose access under the seat, I made the box so I still have storage. Where does everyone have their amps located?

Has anyone used the Energy Suspension bushings for the control arms? I see on ebay there is a kit # 3.3190 that has the bushings for the control arms. 1 of my bushings looks bad, but I don't think these are an easy change, I do have a press.

I remember the CAI dyno results the AEM Bruteforce was a great choice. I paid $285cnd plus tax for mine here in Canada, no shipping charges! They had it in a couple days, where in Canada are you from? I picked mine up from GSS Performance in Saskatoon.

Here is my alignment stuff. This was the second place that attempted to do it, he said he couldn't get it any closer because the right front of the frame is bent. Anyway, now to my problem. When I turn sharp to the left, the right front tire skids and leaves a black mark from the outside edge of the tire on the road, like a really good mark. When I turn to the right, it does the same thing with the outside of the left tire. Comparing it to my Dad's 97 Chev 4x4 my truck clearly does not steer sharp enough on the inside tire. The outside tire is the same angle on both trucks, but my Dad's truck the inside tire turns quite a bit sharper than his outside tire. Mine turn almost exactly the same. The inside tire has a shorter route to travel to make the turn therefore should turn a sharper angle than the outside tire. This is not happening on my truck. I replaced the idler arm, pitman arm and both inner tierods with Moog parts. The outside of my tires are wearing bad. I redid the front diff, and even tried turning and steering with the front driveshaft off to make sure it wasn't the transfer case causing me grief. Any ideas? Left Front Right Front camber 0.6 camber -0.9 caster 5.2 caster 4.3 toe 0.04inch toe 0.03inch Total toe 0.07inch Steer Ahead 0.01 Left Rear Right Rear camber -0.5 camber -0.8 toe 0.08inch toe -0.07inch total toe 0.02inch thrust angle 0.15 File was to big to attach.

I never found the answer whether the climate controls were digital or manual and if they were still available. How much $$ shipped to S0A 2V0 via USPS?

Mine ices up in 10 mins and no air whether it be warm or cold flows. All the lines under the hood are solid ice. I had it in to the dealership because it would not turn on. Turns out it looks like he may have wired something up directly and it runs all the time? I don't know, I've been running all winter with the a/c belt off. Gotta take it back to them to fix it right. Its finally warming up here.

Thanks for the info!! Will get it checked out/fixed and I'll let you know the results.

Nobody else has had this before?

My A/C won't turn off, the clutch will not disengage and will freeze over the lines and air will stop blowing into the cab. Doesn't matter if I have the A/C switch on or not it still happens. Could my compressor clutch be bad and not disengaging? Or when I took it in to get the A/C fixed they just wired it directly without going using the A/C switch? Sorry for hijacking thread.

Well I bought the truck just over a year ago. I replaced both diff and transfer case oil when I bought it. Truck has like 85,000miles. This winter it developed a problem of skipping/bouncing in the rear when turning. Took rear diff cover apart a month ago and found no filings or chunks. Replaced with new oil. Problem is still there. The front is giving me grief to. I cannot turn sharp, its hard to park in a parking lot. You have to go forward and backward once or twice to get in nice and straight. Its worse than my Dad's 2 trucks, however they are not AWD so I don't know if it should be this much worse. Now that the snow has melted, when you turn right, the right front tire leaves a pretty good black mark, like its dragging, or I guess turning faster than the outside tire and is laying a mark. The truck bounces when turning sharp in either direction. If you turn left, the left tire will leave a mark and skid. Happens in reverse as well, but if your backing up the outside tire is the one that leaves the skid mark. I don't imagine this is good for the truck. Its like driving a 4wd truck in 4 low where all tires seem to be locked up. What could be wrong? What can I check? I was searching the forum and read about a control module that is supposed to disengage the front when turning? Is this true? Is there such a thing? I only read one topic about it. Are the viscous clutches toast in the transfer case? Is there a way to check it? I could take some pics of the marks it leaves when turning. I don't remember the truck doing this last summer after I had bought it.