AKSSS

Little update here. First startup had a small issue with the turbo. It blew about 1/2 quart of oil out the exhaust. So. What's a guy to do. Pull the turbo pipes, put on the old manifolds and exhaust and run the truck. Lol!! Short clip here. https://vimeo.com/136396017 Turbo is already on its way back to Alaska. Forced inductions is awesome. They went through it for me really no questions asked. The turbo has been sitting for well over a year never installed. Gotta give them props for that. They didn't have to didn't have to do crap for me. The turbine side oil seal was pushed out. Not sure what caused it. But they fixed and shipped it! Hoping to get a few hundred miles on it and throw the turbo back on and go spoolin! Check out my impromptu air filter setup with out the turbo.

More pics. Tapatalk won't let me load more than a few at a time for some reason.

Ok. Bumping this back up. This truck is going to finally fire up this week. Here are a few pics. Don't judge the wiring. A new harness will be built this winter. When it is -40 outside. Not 80 above.

Driver side is correct.

Check intake manifold gaskets. It's easy and common issue.

If you are doing a bunch of spinning and hooking and actually have 800 wheel horsepower with awd it will snap the rod ends. Seen quite a few d-maxs snap them. If I ever break one this is what I am going to go to. http://fcrcmachine.com/i-12457560-rare-parts-1999-06-chevy-gmc-cadillac-1500-tie-rod-assemblies-28723.html

I had to run braided lines from my trans to the cooler to go around the turbo drain. And if the drain is a #12, lol. You won't have an oiling problems. Other than trying to get that line ran. Test fit the line. Have the turbo just mocked up. I have to have my oil drain hooked up to the pan first. Then install the top part of the oil return to my turbo as I am bolting it down to the manifold. Things get slightly tight on that side. I don't think that vortech would have enough down hill slope to gravity feed fast enough. Just my opinion. It might work. I have been wrong before.

Don't worry about the speed of the oil flow. You would be amazed at how small the amount of oil is in a #4 line feeding your power unit is. I usually try to run my oil about 1/2 over full anyways. Your motor will never know different. Side note. Biggest problem with oil drains are line size. Especially in cooler climates. If you have a chance to see anything cooler than freezing temps you need a large free flowing drain or you will push oil past the seals in your head unit. I used a #10 return with sweeping fittings. No tight bends.

Your return is gravity fed. So it has to be lower than your turbo. Other wise you end up using a scavenging pump like on the sts kits.

Ok. Come to my shop. I have 2 harnesses there. You can take one.

Yep. Well I failed again. I forgot the pics yesterday. You can order the adapter or just used your existing tools and drill and tap it. Then get a 5 dollar fitting. And when you drill your oil pan for the return line. Remove the pan. I spent like 3 hours drilling my pan. Being as careful as possible. And still got shavings into the pan. So either remove it and drill. Or remove it and have the fitting welded on. Then you have let spots for leaks. And with boost your lower end will see a pound or two of pressure. Oil leaks will happen. Just do your best to prevent them.

I am going to work I a few hours. I will take a pic

Open till noon.

Power and tranny didn't have 20g wire?

I know I suck at helping you guys. But I drilled a hole into the oil block. Then tapped it with a 1/8" fitting to a #4 fitting and ran a #4 line up to the turbo.

I can't wait to do some cruising!! It should be pretty cool. Hell we have enough trucks we wouldn't even be the smallest car club in Fairbanks! Haha! But damn Harley. Truck looking all sweet. Yours is all buffed out. Mine looks like douche. I guess I just have to be fast enough that you guys can't see it!

Nice!!

It will work out. Just take your time. You have too much time and money in this to rush anything now. Don't forget to run the two wires for the data logger on the wideband. I have extra ends for you to plug into the hpt cables. Going to be an interesting summer!

Sucks for you Harley. That hood is going to look good on my truck after I snag it!!

I'm So pissed at you right now Harley. This hood, and the other few things your doing is exactly what I was planning. Looks effing bada$$!! I like it.

You shouldn't need crap. I have had cars sit out side at -30 for days and the battery's are fine. There is a draw on the system.

I'm no expert. But you can check the draw on the electrical system with the vehicle off. I haven't done this in years. I hope someone can correct me if I remember wrong. Pretty much the same thing 2003_supersport said. You have to have a multi meter and check the resistance on the battery cables with the battery unhooked. Then if you are having a lot of residual draw. Start pulling fuses until you figure out with circuit is causing the draw. Then you can at least narrow it down to that point and investigate that way. I deal with cold temps everyday. And a good, well charged battery with not freeze. But at negative zero temps, battery pad heaters work great. My truck has a battery pad heater, oil pan heater, tranny pan heater and a block heater. It will sit outside at -40 below and still start fine. It doesn't like it. But it starts and has good oil pressure at start up. If you guys need some of these heaters and don't have them readily available to you and it is going to stay cold. Let me know and we can send you some heaters. Then you can start plugging in your trucks at night. If you are having 20 degrees and colder I would be plugging in my ride. Sure is hard on bearings doing cold starts.

I got one of those slip fit adapters to go on that one vent. Use it as a return. I'll get you the part numbers when I get back.

Lol!!! I leave for vacation on Wednesday. When I get back it will get done. I got a guy to tig weld my charge pipes for me finally. That was my biggest hurdle. Plumbing the I/c in the front bumper takes a little more work than in the grille especially with 3" pipe. Everything but some small stuff is pretty much done. It will go quick once I get back from vacation.

So how's the tuning going? Have you had a chance to drive it a little?