BenKey

Should have gotten spacers also. Then all you need is longer bolts for the bolts that are in the little cuts that you can see from the top view of your bumper (2). The brackets get bolted there atop the spacers and angle down and back toward the engine.

Do you really need 3 threads on the same subject? You could have used the initial one you started. Much better response that way.

You don't have a TB spacer on do you?

Your choice there.

Personally, I would stick with the stock rocker until you maybe wanted to step up to a 408 or something. They will work just fine. Going to a 1.8 is pointless if you're already going to change the cam. If you want higher lift and longer duration, what a higher ratio rocker gives, just have it cut into the cam you are going with. Stick with a 1.7.

Go to a site that sells locks for a LS1. Aren't the locks listed as LS1 for the Comp part#?

Even a PCV valve will not stop the oil particles that are in the vapor. The best way to catch that is with a catchcan. Going to that type of valve should have not made a difference driving-wise - not at least going to that type over the stock one. Maybe it is just perceived difference?

Not worth the money. I agree that you could build a much better 408 or 427 for that matter, for less. Go with a Warhawk block and heads 454ci for less than that even.

That is a front sensor code. Not sure if correct, but if numbered like on the engine, bank one would be the driver's side.

If it is a front O2 sensor, then I don't think you want to do without them. A lot of info for fueling your truck properly is taken from them.

so how much have you dyno'd the MP112? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Same question I had

The idea of putting the stock airbox back in is to prove to them that is not it and not give them a way out. Fact is oiled filters have caused legitimate problems that we address on here fairly regularly. It would give you a better leg to stand on. I would do it to throw it back in their face for spite and nothing else.

If a cam is not in your immediate future but still want to upgrade the rockers, be sure to go to at least the 1.8s. We already have roller rockers stock, so to going to a 1.7 would not net you anything but pretty rockers. Add springs to your total cost on whichever setup you go with. Cranes are expensive, but if the higher ratio also incorporate the qwik-lift technology, I would go with those. I have the Crane race golds with the qwik-lift. The ratio of the qwik-lift ones actually varies. I believe mine start off at 1.79 at the start of their lift cycle to get the valve opened faster and get closer to 1.7 at the end of the lift cycle. The result is more low-end power - supposedly. They are pretty trick designed rockers.

Just make sure you have what you need to hook both into one connection (ALDL connector).

I need to wait about another year. My marriage would last longer that way. Then again.....maybe I should just start pounding the hell out it.

Why would you not take it out there? It takes a few minutes. I would do it in the parking lot before driving it there. I don't care how close they are. I'm sure trying to powerbrake it didn't help your cause either. Sounds like you wanted to test the limits of the okay to do dyno test with a single driveshaft theory. You changed it to the its okay to drive there, powerbrake it in the parkinglot, then dyno it theory. Too bad you didn't complete it. You would have set new limits for the present theory

Somebody needs to do it. I'm tired of babying this thing.

Did you log the run?

The oil pump can handle it. I use 20W-50. Try searching. Oil is a common subject here.

Not saying that an AFR gauge is a bad choice, but the ones that are tapping into your stock O2s are not worth much. Get one that uses a wideband sensor - like a LC-1 by innovative motorsports. Or, if that were a little pricey for you, I'd go with a 2nd interceptor gauge and watch more things at once.

What was your best with the MP112?

Search this site for the name. Some member has the set, I just can't remember who.

Have you asked that question to the people that sell it? I had some similar issues with EFILive. I had two versions, both of which I paid for, but lost the key to one. I emailed them the serial number and they sent me my key code for what I had originally bought and the next 4 upgrades after.

Man you are one lucky motha F#cka. Your dealer covers everything. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Depends on your view. Most lost motors get replaced by strokers - I guess he'll miss out on that