BenKey

If you want to read plenty on HS or YT rockers, go to LS1 tech and search. There is a lot of good and bad about both. Whichever ones you go with don't forget to get another set of springs - so add another $150. Why not just get a cam cut to the spec you want and up your duration and lift that way? It will cost about the same as your cheapest route for the other way and you will get more power out of it.

Where is a thread

Stock cam bearings are crap. Like I posted, I saw copper showing through on my brand new block. One ding to a cam bearing in the wrong place and potentially you can loose the bearing. I don't think over-revving is the problem. For mine it was prolonged heat and thinning oil + dinged up bearings.

If you are concerned about the intake, put the stock one back on. What does it take, 10 minutes? Personally, I wouldn't take it to anyone other than the dealer. You have already paid for a fix - somewhat. Keep going back until they take care of it the way they should have in the first place. A code reader will not read a code that doesn't stay, or doesn't show as a pending code. I have never been able to scan a flashing SES after it went away - it means misfire. What more do you need to know? If someone had logging software you could go to that cylinder, but that is it. Almost sounds to me like your injector harness has been mis-matched. If it is something more serious, then it is the dealer that is going to have to fix that in the first place. Keep going back and you'll have a good case for the lemon law.

SOLD

My roommate had one for about 6 wks. Girlfriend complained that it was just too big and ended up giving it back. They are very friendly and do require a lot of attention. I think if you train them not to get on the couch/bed they won't, but once you do give it up.

Those are good write-ups. The f-body pieces are slightly different but everything still applies. LS1tech is where I wnet to figure out how to do a 2-pump install. You could go to Racetronix and ask them to build you whatever you wanted.

The filter seal can be a pain. I have gone without replacing it just for that reason. Usually comes fairly easily with some needle nose pliers by bending the edge in toward the opening. To get the new one in I have used round pieces of wood to tap it in, or something similar. Try lubing the outside of it, just in case the opening no longer has fluid in it.

Go to ANplumbing.com - there you should be able to find what you need. The fitting size is 1/8th NPT that you need. Personally, I would return that A/F guage. They are not worth the money for the accuracy they have.

You can also click on standard.

Get a Flo~pro 2504.

Personally....I'd say save your money.

Since you are changing plug wires, you'll want a set of cooler plugs also. Get some NGK TR-6 plugs. They'll run better in the long run with a blower. They come gapped to .035" - leave them that way.

You'll want a higher stall for either system.

You can't pull up a previously saved logged run, click on file and see an export option?

The Radix injectors are the MultecII injectors.

Why 41.36?

The problem with just going in a changing your IFR, you'll change your fueling across the board.

Been there. I put 3 (cams) of them in. Like I mentioned about the stock cam bearings, they are cheap. No matter what build you get, get the cam bearings changed out to Durabond bearings, even if it is a new block.

I think the Bellengers are the most expensive. They're around $1300 just for the headers.

There have been numerous on here that have done just that and not had any issues.

I'll give'em one thing...it's freakin' clean.

A local news station tested the Lucas gas treatment and saw about a 3mpg increase over a long drive. I use it.

Installed this thing about a hour ago while it was 101 outside. Only took about 30 minutes. Only place I found to install was the passenger side firewall. It's not the nicest looking piece of stuff I've installed, but I guess it's functional.

Oh yeah, that cam would be great with a 2800lb car. I think you would need like a 3500 stall at least to run that cam, but I am no expert when it comes to figuring that kind of stuff.