BenKey

Not that I have seen. I have beefier one in mine, but it still looks cheap. Go to speed and do the 4L80 swap and then get the 80 built. You probably will never have to touch it again, depending on how far you go and how much time you spend on the track. Plus, someone needs to do it and make it work. I need a comfortable place to fall back on when mine takes a crap.

I don't know if anyone is running both. I guess if your cam was big enough that you wanted to get it in a certain RPM range with less of an impact on your blower RPMs you could do it. The stock pulley - 7.75" Blower pulley - 3" Shifting @6000 rpms 7.75 / 3 = 2.583 X 6000 = 15,498 blower rpms ASP pulley - 6.75" (hypothetical number) Blower pulley - 3" Shifting @6000 rpms 6.75 / 3 = 2.25 X 6000 = 13,500 blower rpms The lower number of blower rpms would give lower boost numbers, but if your cam's sweet spot was in the 6300rpm range then you would only be spinning your blower @14,175. The problem is you end up spinning the hell out of the motor just to get you where you were in boost. Numbers could change slightly with lower blower pulley and actual size ASP pulley.

It works with a truck harness?

I would leave your CR where it is. The 5.3L already has it where it is probably optimum for the 10-12 boost range that the Radix is more than likely limited to. If it were capable of 15lbs of boost, I'd say go for it, but that isn't going to happen. If you still want to change your pistons over to forged, then maybe that would be worth it. You don't see many problems in the strength of the stock rotating assy with the Radix though - although pushing a 5.3L, you may. You could not do that and more than likely be okay with the amount of boost you would be making. Definitely go for the ARP changeout on everything. It all depends on how much effort and money you want to put into it.

Glad there wasn't anyone seriously hurt. It was a good thing the seat got moved - for whatever reason.

I wish I could get races. Most pass by me really fast like they want to play until we hit the light and they hear my truck at idle. At the point it just doesn't seem to go any further. I keep hoping for a 'L, but they are not in the numbers they used to be. One guy at work has one that runs in the 10s.

No broke trannies this year?

That's a pretty cool setup.

Also, how much boost have you been seeing? I can't see lifting your heads from a Radix, but who knows

Wow. Glad you weren't hurt. Sorry to hear. Sounds like a freak thing. Surprised the wheel came apart - stock wheel? There was a thing here a while back where kids were throwing roofing nails all over the road. See anything in the tires?

Go to PT.net and ask blownchevy to get you the pieces to install your h/e in the lower opening. The pieces come from the Joe Gibbs trucks. It was where I had mine and there is nothing to fabricate. RevolutionRaceWorks may have them on here.

I added just about everything else to the top post. Have a few more little things to add that I'll do later.

Different kind of fitting. This fitting take a tube and converts it to an AN fitting and uses a compression ring. Plus, you do not want to use teflon tape on AN fittings at all.

I wouldn't personally want to just re-torque the bolts, although that solution may work for you providing damage hasn't already been done to the gasket. At a minimum I would want to get one set of head bolts and a new gasket and just change it out. I wouldn't want to change the heads now if you planned later to get a 6.0L. Worry about that then.

Ran into a snag. One of the tube to AN adpaters is leaking and it can't be tightened any more without the leak getting worse. It never showed until last night after idling for a about 10 minutes. It took constant pressure on it I guess. Tried to fix today and it's getting worse. New fittings are on the way. I guess I'll be down for a few days.

Give me a little time to think about that. I usually like to keep the stock stuff in case I ever get pissed and go back.

I didn't really think about that, thanks. I had my IFR set for 65psi. I had planned on adjusting back for 58psi, but didn't think about being pretty close on VE.

Looks like it may be a slow coolant leak to me. Never seen it build up like that if it is. That stuff looks wet.

Well.......got it all finished. I had to bring the key up to acc position about 6-7 times to get the pressure adjusted right and fix one slight leak. I don't know of a way to keep the fuel pumps on, so that is why I had to turn it off/on numerous times. The PCM will shut the pumps down if the truck is not started after a few seconds. After that, it cranked right up. Got one fault code that I cleared and never saw it again. Haven't been for a drive yet, but know I have a few hours of tuning to do. I have been operating at 65psi with the two pumps I have, from when I thought I was going turbo, and decided to adjust back to the stock fuel pressure of 58psi. With the lower pressure, I am on the lean side quite a bit and need to do a lot of VE tuning. It was a difficult decision for me to get the pressure back to where it should be, mainly because my VE tuning had my ltrims at 0 at nearly whatever speed I was at, at cruise. Getting ready to go out and hook up the laptop now. Tomorrow I plan to take it for a spin and get some tuning done and then I'll finish up all the loose ends of everything that had to be done/modified and take some pics of how it all finally looks. The fuel lines and fuel pressure regulator were a challenge to decide where and how to mount and route. I came up with what I thought was best for the materials I had and only plan to modify it slightly once I get some new connections that I will need to order. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it all went together and the fact the slight fuel leak I had was very, very minor and easy to fix. No returning DTCs is cool also. I'll have to see if there are any pending once I get the laptop hooked up.

Some have experienced unexplained KR from going to lower pullies. Verified by going back to stock and KR going away. I have thought about doing numerous times, but do not want to have those kind of problems.

Do you have a Radix? I would check to make sure one of the knock sensor wires is not pinched under it. Happened to me. Same fault.

Why get them if you'd plan to run them closed? You haven't purchased them already? I would want to see how the motor liked them before I made up my mind. You may find you get a tad lean, but you could always check on your wb or logging software.

Cool pic, but if that is going to be your sig pic, it will need to be 700X200. Right now way too big.

I would certainly "help" you do yours. Except the buying part.

Progress: I'll probably finish up tomorrow. Just need to decide where to mount my FPR and route fuel lines accordingly. I'll post up details later.