BenKey

If I reset mine just before the I take a pic, I can beat it.

So that much huh? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I don't notice any.

I haven't. If I were to add any product like the one you have, it would be made by Lucas. I think they have done their homework on their products and most do as they claim. Not speaking for that product though.

If your truck didn't catch fire, you didn't make that big of a mistake. We all learn from our mistakes. I know I've learned the hard way on my truck.

Wait a minute.....don't you have a AWD -->>2WD convert to finish?

Cool...let us know how it runs.

Call them. Make sure you have the right model for what you are hooking it up to.

Sounds similar to tip-in KR. I was getting quite a bit of that at one point - of course now my tune is all out of whack. I looked at my timing table and saw that my normal driving around timing was way too high so that when I pushed the throttle in to go WOT from just cruising, it caused my timing values to move to different areas of my timing table based on DYNCYLAIR and the transition was like from 40 to 25 (example) from one cell to the next. I reduced the large gaps and smoothed it more and it went away. Basically, my timing table starts high then tapers down as it moves to the area for WOT, not drops off cliffs like it was.

Seems a little on the too large side for a 6.0L and a heavy-assed truck. That would be the biggest cam I have seen on this site - for any size motor. Mine is a 236/243 for a 410ci.

Spun cam bearings.....a brand new block will come with cam bearings that you can already see copper showing through, if that means anything. When I got my new block the first thing I did was replace them. Also, were you super careful to not ding the bearings up from your previous cam install? If the bearings are spun you do not need a new block. The journals will have to be bored and cam bearings with a larger od, but the same id will need to go in. Although, the cost of the journal boring can be costly and almost equal the $650 cost of a new block.

The only way I know to show potential bearing damage, without a full breakdown, is by cutting open the oil filter and looking at the media and seeing if it has shiney pieces in it. Been there.

flashing SES may, or may not, leave a code to be read. I've never seen one stored from it.

Sounds like with your mods that you may be a little lean. Did you log your O2s during your WOT?

And here I thought it was an easy answer

Really???....I know...that is the point. Did you miss it?

What dust

There is a filter for the tranny. You'd have to remove the pan to see it. Be careful when you go to refill what you drained. Just dropping the plug does not drain very much out of the tranny as a whole. I would put the plug back in and replace 1qt and crank it up and let it get up to temp. Then check your dipstick, while running, and fill as necessary. Do not just drop in 3qts and feel that you're good. You may have just overfilled your tranny if you do. Unless you have a way of measuring what you have removed, I'd be careful. I've used the drain plug twice and both times it took different amounts to replace. Up on ramps vs not on ramps changes the amount. Oh yeah, GM Dexron III works.

Just have Beserker tune you in Orlando. Welcome to the site.

Screw sims, 50/50 shot on them working. Just have Bryan update your tune to turn off the reporting of your rear O2s and you should be good. With L/Ts and no cats the exhaust note is raspy as hell. I thought mine was bad and had someone listen to it after I put on cats and they said they didn't notice any difference. Not sure I do either. A lopey cam sounds good with a raspy sound in there also.

I don't see a K&N causing anything much different than stock values for any kind of re-learn. Most of that would be in the idle area anyway - speculating. You shouldn't need any learn period, so to speak.

I remember at the time that I was building my motor and spec-ing the STS kit it was unknown if the GT-70 would perform to the 15psi level that I wanted, but Rick felt it was the best for what they knew then. I have seen a rear twin on a f-body, I think it was a f-body, and it did look pretty badass. I think I saw it for sale on LS1tech, but can't remember. Hope it all goes in well On a side note - I got my McKinney Race Works catchcan in today

I put the part numbers in my garage - didn't check to see if they matched to those posted.

RevolutionRaceWorks should be able to point you in that direction, or blownchevy.

I just ordered one of these also. It looks like a pretty good unit, and cheaper than that AMW unit that doubled in price recently. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Mine will be here Wed! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> LOL now they are back ordered too! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Really, did you try ordering one? Early bird gets the worm <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I lost on ebay for an AMW, so I went to order and poof. Send me yours!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I think I may actually need it more than you - or I would let you have mine ;)

The guy that wrote the article comes on here and post the results. He has also taken suggestions from the members here on what to do/write about. Search for CHP (spelled out) login id and read his posts.