rcapone

Yeah, I was talking to Zippy about this earlier and he said the same thing: get my launch dialed in and let off a bit after the 1/8". I bought some rear spring clamps to help with the weight shift, so I hope those help it hook better at the track than it does on the street. Also, the TPIS came in this afternoon too...just dropped that off at the shop and my tech says he should be finished up tomorrow, then it's GOPRO TIME

haha, I may just do that if I run faster than 11.49 and they boot me off without letting me get another run or two in. I'm not sure if there's some sort of national rule, but this particular track's website says, if you run 11.49 or faster, you have to have a roll bar. That would really suck to haul my truck 2+ hours only to get one run in. Not to mention the fact that my track days would probably be over since there's no other track within a reasonable driving distance that I'm aware of...I'm sure if I tried to come back at a later date, someone would recognize my truck due to the obnoxious license plate and blue fire paint.

Just use the dipstick from your old 60 and pick up a tube, part number 15832205, then follow the instructions I posted above...just mark your stick to the proper level, then fill to the mark.

Chuck never responded because he doesn't even know how to properly fill his own transmissions and directly told me to only fill to the factory marked fill line. This is the reason both of his transmissions failed - factory fluid level on a high performance truck that launces much harder than stock and thus sucks air during hardest acceleration, the 1 - 2 shift. Of course I found all this out on my own after both transmissions failed. A high performance trans (at least the 80e anyway) and high performance vehicle must be filled to "high performance" specs; drop the pan, install the dipstick, transfer a mark onto the dipstick that is 1/4" higher than the pan to trans mating surface. Note the mark I made on the improper dipstick Chuck told me to use and fill only to the factory line. The line I marked corresponds exactly with the factory marked line on the Correct, shorter dipstick... Here are the intermediates that came out of the SECOND, pre 1997 80e he built for me. The hot spots on the steels are from second gear slipping due to the above situation The first trans he built for me took longer to cook second gear because when I originally did the 80e swap, my truck only had a few bolt ons, ie, headers, CAI, exhaust, stall and Zippy tune. After the swap I immediately complained about the extremely soft 1 - 2 shift but Chuck told me that was just the way the 80e shifted. A few months later I add on the TVS 2300 and the 1 - 2 shift gets even softer, few months after that I install the cam, smaller pulley, ID 1000's, etc. and almost immediately completely cooked 2nd gear.

After you install the trans, drop the pan, install the stick and mark it where the pan mates to the trans. then add 1/4" onto that...that's supposed to be the correct fill level for a performance build, and that's the mark seen on the longer dipstick in the pic. Chuck from FLT, however, never told about this procedure and told me to only fill to the factory marked fill line...not to mention the fact that he sold me the wrong tube and never told me about the different dipstick. That's why both of my transmissions cooked second gear...not enough fluid. The research I gathered from the Chevy dealer was: Dipstick TUBE (15729870) stayed the same from 1991 to '96 (non LS style) AND '97 to 2000 LS Style 4L80e's. However, the DIPSTICK was only the same for the '91 to '96's (15996922) then it changed from '97 and newer 80e's. Chuck sold me a 2001+ TUBE (15832205) with my first post '97 80e. This could have possibly been the wrong tube for my first one if it was built in '97 to '00 (who knows the exact year of the first one) and was most definitely wrong for the pre '97 he built for me the second time around. Here are the intermediate clutches that came out of Chuck's FLT he just built for me the second time around. Note the hot spots on the steels from the second gear clutches slipping due to improper fluid levels.

I can only imagine how you must feel after putting so much time into making it your own...very sorry once again to hear this. I hate to even ask, but would you mind posting up some pics of the damages - I'm very curious as I'm sure a lot of others are too. Good luck on finding a new one too

PM sent. When I spoke to the guy yesterday, I told him about the problem you were having and that you may be calling to order one as well. Sorry, I don't remember the dude's name

TPIS better not be out of business! I just spoke to the dude yesterday and he's shipping my 102 out tomorrow

I believe the problem is in the LS3 motor used by NW. Zippy and several others told me of the NW slamming shut which is why I decided on the TPIS. I know it's more money but it may be worth it...that may be what gets you into the 10's!

It really was man! The instant torque and power was reeeealy awesome, lol. I can't wait to get that baby back and make some gopro's for you guys. I'm hoping he'll be able to finish it up this weekend so I can make it to the track the 17th Yours is no joke just the way it sits James, although a nitrous system would be a nice compliment - I remember that vid you posted last year...freekin awesome!

My vote would be for the SSS as once you drive one, you'll be hooked for sure...even a stock one. Also, these trucks run forever. There are guys on here with over 200k miles and still running strong. Would I buy one with that many miles, no, but you should be able to find a reasonable deal for one with 75k or under...that would probably be the max mileage I would consider.

I'd say you'll probably have to buy theirs for $600 bones and ship them your LS2 90 as a core to build it. You may be able to return your NW due to the problem you're having or else maybe sell it. At least with the TPIS you won't have to worry about the slamming shut issue.

Good luck man, hope you break the record! You have those new Racestars too this time don't you, or did you have them last run?

I'm pretty sure the NW uses the LS3 motor and I've heard some do have that issue, sorry to hear yours is one of them Eddie. I took my LS2 90 off and shipped it to TPIS last weekend. They use your LS2 motor and are supposedly guaranteed to work under high boost applications. You may want to look into that as well.

I'm glad you kept her too Jason! I remember when you were talking about selling her too Our trucks are already starting to become popular collectors and the longer we hold onto them, the greater the demand, the more cha ching they're worth! ...and yes, they are awesome side by side!

Yeah, I'm glad we got to hang out a bit when I was in Vegas for the series last summer - really cool dude. Now it's going to be a torturous wait till my trans is done since I know how awesome that truck is now...somebody smack me cause I'm STILL smiling Jason, lol Another good reason would be to bring that sweet Camaro you have down there so we can race this summer

lol, I knew it would only be a matter of time! Awesome run bro - just think what she'll do if you let Zippy get in there and fix'er up...you'll be smiling like me

haha, if we lived closer we'd be there already buddy! Unfortunately, since Heartland Park is going bankrupt and doesn't have a test n tune this year, I'm having to drive a little further to some po-dunk drag strip called MO-KAN dragway. I was all psyched to go today then logged onto their website to find they changed their "fun drags" April 1st to Friday nights instead of Saturday Days. Today they're having some hot rod car show and aren't open for guys like me. Oh well, hopefully I'll get lucky in with some lingering cooler temps when my trans is finished. I've said it before and will say it again: Zippy really does know his shit and is THE best tuner for our trucks, not to mention the fact that he's usually always available for my quite often and probably annoying phone calls. If not, he always calls me right back and offers a really awesome service for guys like me who have limited knowledge and lots of questions.

Bro, I'm looking into renting a trailer and going today! It's only supposed to be a high of 60 today too

lol, I remember...I went to bed with a smile, woke up with one and still have one!! I honestly didn't think it would do that with the tall / wide tires I have. The tune he gave me just before this one, tires broke loose just a little - maybe 10' or so. Then I upload the tune that's in it now and it really took me by surprise when I got sideways...I stayed in it too and recovered beautifully with the AWD. Now I'm concerned about controlling the spin at the track

Hummm, ok I was pretty much going by what Jake from Jake's performance transmissions told me on PT net. He told me the ONLY thing that could cause a 20psi pressure drop ONLY during the 1 - 2 shift and ONLY at WOT is either a pickup issue or it being low on fluid. http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/80e-pressure-drop-during-1-2-shift-%3D-cooked-clutches-536443/page3/ I even shipped my converter to PI to have it cut and cleaned and bought a can of Kooler Kleen trans flush and had him flush my 40k, although I don't think he did a flow test on it. Also since this was a totally different transmission (pre '97 80e) all new cooler lines were installed as well.

HOLY F***ING *H**!!!!! Been working with Zippy over the past several days tuning the truck and that's all I can say after making a log just now. BOILED all 4 off the line and got totally sideways! That's the very first time this truck has ever done that and WOW! Too bad I have to drop her off tomorrow morning for the trans

Sorry kcoctsafb2. I must have missed that during all your "indirect" insinuations.