Punisher

Well Magnacharger has phased out the 112 to the TVS 1900 which is a much better supercharger so it might be hard to find a 112 let alone probably not the best to choose from. They do come with a tune. I can get about 16-22 depending how easy I take it just driving around town, but its pretty hard not to put your foot on the gas with all that power there.

This is a Chicago joke for Sox fans. So there was mama bear, papa bear, and baby bear. Mama bear and papa bear went to court and got a divorce. The judge sent baby bear with papa bear, but papa bear would beat baby bear. So the judge took baby bear from papa bear, and gave him to mama bear, but mama bear also beat baby bear. They went back to court and the judge looked at baby bear and said, "Give him to the Chicago Cubs, they never beat anybody!"

Snowin in Laramie too haha

You would be surprised how much power those can make. NHRA regulated ECOTECs in 4 cylinder classes to 300lbs heavier than any other 4 cylinder in the class and can't increase beyond a 68mm turbo, they are the only specified engine to be regulated in that class. Seems import guys were gettin pissed that they were gettin beat in their own game lol. But a supercharged 4 cylinder and a v8 sports truck is apples to oranges

My Magnacharged daily SS tranny heats up pretty quick but doesnt go over operating temperature. You shouldn't need to upgrade your tranny cooler.

You don't need a high output alternator if your capacitor is working properly. (And you will get terrible feedback while your drive with a high output alternator if it is not set up for it). It will not mess with your computer. Hooking up subs its pretty simple. First you might need to read the instructions of your capacitor and it might need a precharge to it. Precharge following directions. Disconnect your battery. Then start with power. Wire your large gauge power wire from your positive terminal of your battery to your capacitor with a fuse no more than 2 feet from your positive terminal. If I am not mistaken the streetwires capacitors are two post and you will run the power wire from your battery to the power of the capacitor and on the same terminal run the power from the capacitor top post to the amp. Next, ground. Wire a ground from the capacitor negative post to the amp, and wire another ground wire from the capacitor to a proper body ground. For example the set of studs under the rear seat for the factory bottle jack. Then wire a remote turn on wire from your head unit remote power to the remote turn on to your amp. After wire your RCA cables from your head unit to the amp. Then wire the positive and negative wires from the amp to the sub. Then reconnect your factory battery and enjoy the bass!

I think mine were $1800 with shipping. They came with Hankook Ventus ST from Factory Reproductions

Your truck looks amazing.

Wyotech Laramie Campus Automotive Core - Graduated Motorsports Chassis Fabrication

How much do you plan to spend? Do you know what he has done to the truck?

Well, manufacturers "recommend" iridium because it can withstand higher cylinder temperatures and has an easier spark jump, so is less wear on your coils, better spark which includes better combustion hence more power, throttle response and better fuel mileage. So I would recommend a change with iridium plugs, not e3. I would be surprised if there was any increase in fuel mileage with those plugs and would not be surprised if they would fail much quicker from high cylinder temperatures and took a large toll on your coils trying to jump a harder gap they were not designed to do.

160-190 degrees should be operating temperature for your transmission. I think its doing well

Am I remembering incorrectly don't LQ9s require iridium plugs?

Super Chevy did an article about him and the car and their best run was 4.43 at 178 in the eighth-mile. That's one quick 1/8 mile car. Not too sure if he let off because any car geared for 1/8 mile is definitely not geared for 1/4 mile.

I love the comment "4.9 lol.... i wanna see an Import **** Car do that." Its pretty wicked!

The MIL could have came on for one of three reasons. A. Because of the computer seeing your non-existent catalytic converters are not functioning properly, rear O2S not functioning properly, or you didn't install your front O2S and your computer cannot control fuel trims. Unbolt and slide out the dipstick tube. It may take some force to free it from the block as it uses an interference fit and an O-ring seal that tends to get stuck. It should use a bracket to hold the dipstick tube in place

Gaylord Speedsturr Bed covers are a need!

Sounds like he's just trying to get rid of it. Just about every forced induction system used for GM trucks come with an upgraded fuel pump because stock fuel pumps are not efficient enough to supply that much fuel for those large of injectors and boost. I don't want to be the one to tell you this but I wouldn't do it. I would buy a brand new supercharger kit of your choice. I have already gone down buying a used supercharger road and spent way more money than I would have just buying it brand new, along with so much ridiculous hassle and risks. That's just my opinion.

Illinois emissions are OBDII scanned. They check for DTCs. If you are looking at a cat delete then just get a diablosport and block the O2S or get a custom tune and block them. It works They will see if your truck has recently been cleared of codes and recent drive cycles and warm up cycles. Open loop functions or a O2S "Not supported" tune will not be seen and you will pass emissions.

Nitrous is a non-flammable gas. Whats the adjuster going to argue? Sorry about your loss.

Well if it was a fuse it wouldn't get power in park. Just found out it is a fuse to NSS and instrument cluster. I'm guessing that the NSS consumes too much voltage for the wideband to operate with as well. Any other ideas?

Thats what I used and it only works in park.

Wired up my power for the Innovate LC-1 wideband today to what I thought would be a good location to the ign-0 hot wire, for 12v key on, 14v run pos, and 0v off. But the problem is the wideband only receives power in park. (didn't check it in gear) I don't have the directions anymore and I don't remember where i wired it to last time. So just looking for some input on where everybody wired their power on wire for the gauge and HO2S. (I would preferably like an in dash 0v key off pos, 12v key on and 14v run pos, I'm a little too lazy to turn a switch and run it through the firewall grommet but I will run it underhood if I really have to.) Thanks

If you just disconnect the front driveshaft you will fry your viscous. They make plates that mount on your transfer case and hold the side of the viscous you want from spinning to disconnect for dyno purposes. I do not remember what the call the plate or where you can buy them, but you can do it.

Haha, I have a feeling my act of comfort is gonna get me flamed for this paint lol