Punisher

Get a custom tune. Those handhelds are shit. Talk to Zippy, Wheatley, Blackbear any of the tuners on the forum. Yes they do have downsteam O2Ss. If you get a custom tuned get a constant open-loop tune. They don't make CAIs for our truck. Closest thing you will get is an intake from Volant with a ram-air scoop. I wouldn't ask for opinions on mufflers, everyone has their own opinion and its going to be different. I would just youtube Silverado SS videos for different exhaust, i.e. Silverado SS Flowmaster Exhaust. Looking through all of that should form your own opinion to something you like, not someone else.

C-Notch is strong but depending how low you want to go you may want to consider a step-notch, its much stronger and allows for a large range of ride heights. If you are doing bags then you want to pick a set driving ride height so you don't have intense alignment issues so you will need an electronic controller and module. New upper and lower control arms will be a pretty pricey as well. Lifespan of 4 Links and C-notches or step notches aren't what you want to be worried about. If you do it right it will last the life of the truck. What you will worry about is the air bags, compressor, and controllers.

Whoa whoa, if you do it yourself do NOT use a die grinder when you are doing porting. Use a dremel, the finer the grit the better. If you use a die grinder most of the time are too large for a throttle body and usually come very coarse. Porting is not a hard task you just need to make sure you are only taking the necessary material off before and after the plate. Taking off too much could destroy your throttle body or even reduce cfm if done the wrong way. Grab a how-to online and you will be set. Heres one for example. I didn't read it but it may be worth a try. http://www.ehow.com/how_4553230_port-polis...ottle-body.html

Not worked up. I try my best to educate misinformed individuals, or in your case attempt to educate misinformed individuals. Yea you're right, 12 seconds off the lot isn't all its cracked up to be. Anybody that reads this don't listen to professionals or myself our opinions based on facts don't matter. Listen to IdahoBLKss's opinion because hes seen two guys drive a Camaro and they are shit don't buy one or in fact don't buy any Chevrolet product! They're all just slow. To you Idaho

Wow apparently the track you go to Camaro owners can't drive. 2010 Camaros have broken into the 12s with ease. Bone stock. Not Mustang GTs, not Challengers, Camaros. http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f39/bon...1-4-mile-82064/ So basically what you are saying idahoBLKss is that if I bought a 2009 Corvette ZR1 and could not drive a manual so I trapping a 15 second et, and then I bought an automatic base model C6 Corvette and trapped a 13 second et that a base model Corvette is faster than a ZR1? If you think that you are sad. No. Just because the TWO fools that cannot drive a Camaro run poor times does not make SRT8s which have been proven over and over again by the same professional driver driving both cars, that the Camaro SS is faster. Have you not read or seen any testing between the cars? Any professional driver that drives a Camaro SS is 13 seconds flat, or 12s. So if you base your opinion on two morons that can't drive that a slow Challenger is faster, well you have one crappy opinion. http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupes...g_gt/index.html http://www.insideline.com/ford/shelby-gt50...elby-gt500.html etc... plenty of magazines have the tests so I will not bore you with facts. If you guys like spending more money to have a slow sports car than go for it, buy a Mustang or Challenger. But to buy either other vehicles based on performance and price, that is a sad, misinformed opinion. I would rather own a Camaro save $20,000 and spank Shelby GT500KRs, let alone a puny 5.0L Mustang. Even keep it stock save $8,000 and spank SRT-8s. 2010 Chevrolet Camaro RS/SS Base MSRP $34,225 2009 Dodge Challenger SRT8 Base MSRP $42,245 2009 Shelby Mustang GT500KR Base MSRP $47,175 Hey but whats money right? Piss it all away for a slow car.

Um...no. http://blogs.insideline.com/straightline/2...d_fe_9998_1.JPG 2011 Mustang GT is heavier than the Camaro SS so no. Still less horsepower, and now it is heavier. So I don't know where you are getting your facts from.

If youre going to buy a sportscar for the power, buy a Camaro, no contest. Camaro is faster on the 1320, and the track over a Mustang or Challenger. Pick up a few of the magazines that compare Camaro, Mustang, and Challenger, its quite funny that they call it a comparison.

I used my shops Lincoln TIG 225, so yes GTAW. Im looking for a personal welder now, I was looking at that Miller Dynasty 200, but dang is the price high. What options do you have? Watercooled and Fingertip control?

Thank you. The rear end axles should be (2) 10" 1-3/8" Chromemoly tubular .225 wall with 15-17" tall slicks, 6" wide. Solid no suspension. (so I can compete in true go-kart classes.)

Haha thanks. No I built this all in the shop on a frame bench. I just had to get it out of there so thats why its in the room now.

Yessir.

That is a member on here and its not white its silver birch

I have to say this is the most intricate thing I have built and I am very very proud of what I have done. I had 1/64th of an inch of tolerance on this build. So I am going to go into detail about it. Yes this is plans off of a 1st Generation Camaro/Firebird (F-Body) Platform but I hate to ruin it for some of you and tell you it is a 1/2 scale chassis. Building this is 100% the exact same work as building a full scale chassis and does take the same amount of time (for anyone that hasn't built a car chassis before.) It is only less materials. This took me 2 weeks of 9 hour days straight to build this. Well I have been wanting to do a drag go-kart for a while and I decided to save my money on my SSS build so I built this for something a bit cheaper. A 1st Gen Camaro tube chassis with a step-notch is a great common chassis for drag racing so I just built it smaller. Dimensions: Length: 78 1/4" (6.6') Width: 27 7/8" Height at Tallest Point (Step Notches): 11" Materials: 1/8" DOM Tubing 1"x2" Mild Steel 24 Feet (Chassis) 1/8" Mild Steel Flat Stock 12"x2' (Backing Plates) All TIG welded. I don't have my camera now so I will have to wait to upload better pictures. But this is it finished in my apartment. Sorry again these pictures are terrible. Front Top Back Welds The floor pan is behind it, a friend didn't need some 16 Gauge sheet metal so I will use that (its a little heavy but money is tight so it will due) I should finish the floor pan soon and start with standard Push/Pull Tie Rod steering and disc brakes. The powertrain is up in the air as far as right now. Once the steering and brakes are done I will buy the needed power/drivetrain components then fabricate/weld the motor mounts and get the wheel/tire combo and rear axle. The plan is something stupid-crazy for the engine, most likely a large displacement turboed snowmobile engine or a motorcycle engine, turbo V-Twin or turbo 4 stroke 4 cylinder 600cc or so. 4-5 speed transmission paddle shifted. It is a step-notched tube chassis so I have to do something crazy, right!? Depending on ride height it will have 15-17" tall tires on it. This will hold 300-400 horsepower, maybe more but I would kill myself with that much. Its not a Silverado SS but I hope you guys will be excited to see how it turns out, I know I am!

Nice, I would watch out for heatsoak.

Wow. It looks so good its almost unreal. I have to say I've always loved your truck and it still looks great.

Everything breaks, whether it was lack of maintenance, an individual defect, or too much horsepower. In your case, it wasn't too much horsepower. I know plenty of AWD SS owners running 600+ crank horsepower on stock front differentials and never a problem. I'm running a magnacharger, and this has been my daily driver for the past year, and I haven't had one problem with my front differential. Mind you I beat the snot out of it when necessary . Don't be discouraged. I'm going to tell you right now unless you have way too much money laying around you don't know what to do with you could probably put on whatever modifications you want to that and never break it.

"All JGP trucks begin their lives as stock vehicles that can be bought right off the showroom floor. Once in the capable hands of Gibbs engineers and installers, the custom interior, suspension, brakes, wheels, trim and blower are installed and tested. On the other hand, if you're not aching for a blower you can order a naturally aspirated version at a decreased cost."

Optional? The only option you get is pre ordering yours without a supercharger for a decreased cost. They ALL have them unless its was a special order.

http://catastrophicerror.com/~endo/z71/2004gmc/nav/nav.html

Any upgrade from stock you're not going to be getting your money out of unless your pushing some crazy horsepower. Stick with factory parts.

When your window tries to push up it is much more physical resistance than when it rolls down. When window motors are wearing they show by slowing drastically under resistance. The dimming of your lights is just your motor taking more amperage quicker than your alternator can charge it at that point in time.

I've been talking about painting my SS pearl white for a while now. The wheels are hideous though haha.

More rotating weight is more strenuous on transmissions and differential assembly. Unless you put tractor tires on it, I doubt you will see any more wear than usual. Just keep up with your basic maintenance. I had bigger wheels on my SS and the only toll it took was my wheel bearings. Which you will most likely see.

You haven't seen anything until you go to Laramie, WY. Every other diesel truck in this town has stacks, massive ones. I am not even over exaggerating when I say every other one, and there's a lot.