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Posts posted by BlueAKSSS
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Looks good, got the best color! lol
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Welcome!
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So your saying your battery goes dead if your truck is left overnight or over the day? When was the last time you changed your battery? The remote starter could have something to do with it possibly....?
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Welcome to the site!
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Hahaha!
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Mine has the same problem some are really lose, but they don't spin I think there's a tab to prevent that from happening so that must be broke off. If you want some replacement OEM Chrome ones I found some here. It's a complete set but then you can have all the replacements you need.
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Welcome back, mine didn't start working for a while to...
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ya thats true there are a couple different bypasses. did you get it in?...
Yes its completely installed in my truck and working I use it every morning.
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Hmmm weird never seen any new body style trucks with the old style vortec 5.7l.....
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Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!
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Hahaha, whenever I see one of those cars I just laugh.....
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you have to download a code to your bypass for your doorlocks. thats what they had to do for mine.
I think this depends on what bypass module you are using, the DLPKGM is self learning and does not require any codes that I know of. I followed their directions for it and it works flawlessly unlocks and locks.
-Matt
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Great write up.
I love that Viper Key fob. Maybe xmas present to myself
Thanks, ya the remote is nice!
Awesome How-To!Mr. P.
Thanks, Mr. P. !
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Good deal and it looks great! Wish I could find a nice one up here to keep stuff out of the bed!
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Looks good!
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Just started working for me to, much much faster so far!
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First off sorry I know lots of people post this but...... I've been looking at different cam options for a while now but I'm not sure what exactly would work good for my setup.
Here's the specs on my 1969 C-10 Stepside:
Year of truck: 2002 (retrofitted in to 1969 C-10)
Model: Silverado 1500 (5.3L)
Trans:4L60E, stock
Converter: stock
Gear: 3.73 POSI
Tires:275/60/15 rear, and 255/60/15 front.
List of current mods: Shorty Headers, 3" pipes into Y into flowmaster dual exhaust, aeromotive pressure regulator, 5.7l corvette intake, home made cold air intake, no cats, all corvette front engine brackets. Thats all I can think of right now.
Possible future mods: Cam, Electric cutout, Tune and maybe torque converter
Goals for truck: Make it have a nice cammed idle but get some more power probably torque, and drivablilty.
Uses of the truck: Driving to car shows, driving on sunny days only in the summer (not to often), cruising around town and thats about it.
I started off thinking one of these two would be good:
Comp Cams:XR259HR...206/212 .515/.522 112LSA. Great cam for a stock truck looking to make big low rpm torque and use a stock torque converter. Better suited to a 4.8L or very mild 5.3L. Recomended torque converter would be no more than a 3000 for a 4.8L or 5.3L and stock or 2600 for a 6.0L. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 GM springs.
XR265HR...212/218 .522/.529 114LSA. Great cam for a stock truck using stock truck exhaust manifolds and either a stock converter or low rpm stall. In a 4.8L or 5.3L I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall. In a 6.0L I'd recomend a stock or 2600 stall, but the 2600 would be better suited to the job. Recomended valve springs would be GM LS6 springs.
Then I started thinking those might not be big enough to make it even sound like it has a cam and this one would be better but would I have to change the torque converter for this cam.....???
XR275HR...222/224 .566/.568 112LSA Very strong cam for a naturally asperated setup. In a 4.8L you'll need a 3000 to 3400 stall. In a 5.3L you'll need a 2600 minimum and best results at 3000 stall. With a 6.0L I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall depending on how agressive you want the launch. This is a very good cam for torque in the middle rpm range. Recomended to use shorty headers or long tubes. You may also need an injector upgrade at this point. With good tuning the idle will be a bit choppy, but yet still very streetable and will make for a nice daily driver with some bite. Not recomended for nitrous or Supercharger. Recomended springs are LS6 springs or 918's.Anyway let me know what cam you guys would pick between these?
Thanks,
Matt
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Welcome to the site! As far as hooking up an mp3 player to the stock radio quite a few companies make them for these trucks, I've got one made by Neo and it works pretty good.
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That sucks! But at least you can get a SS bumper!
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okay...my first question has to be how many extra (unused) wires will there be when youre done? Because this thing has so many wires with it i didint even know where to start...
There's a ton of extra wires I didn't hook up such as Door lock unlock wires, siren, extra sensors, and the list goes on and on....There were so many left over on mine because I used the D2D cable for the Viper to communicate with the bypass module for the locks and passlock security so no need for all the extra wires.
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the only interface you need is the xk-01 right? thats the only one that i read was required to install it anyway, so i hope thats the only one! haha
Hey check the how-to section I made one on "how to install a remote start, viper 5901"
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Looks great, love the b/w shots!
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This is a guide on how to install a remote start system in your truck. To install you must have knowledge of wiring and soldering skills. Use this install guide at your own risk! I'm not accountable for any problems you may cause doing this install!
This is what I did for my 2003 SS but 2003-2006 should be the same.
To install buy these parts:
1. DLPK GM Bypass Module for the Passlock and Doorlock controls $45 (Some other modules work as well) From ebay
2. Viper 5901 2 way Remote Start System $225 from ebay
3. GM-12 "Remote Starter T-Harness" which plugs between the ignition switch and the main wiring harness of the truck so you don't cut up any factory wires. $30 from Amazon.com
Tools you need:
Wire Cutters
Soldering Iron
Solder
Electrical Tape
Shrink Wrap Tubing
Screw Drivers
Socket Set
Zip Ties
Portable Light
Utility Knife
*Disconnect Battery Before Proceeding
Step 1
Open up your new remote start and the GM-12 T-Harness, and place them on a good work surface. Find the heavy gauge wiring harness for the remote start system. Next you are going to solder the remote start heavy gauge wires to the GM-12 T-Harness. For this you will need a wiring diagram for the SS (attached to post).
Soldered wiring harness from remote start to gm-12 harness.
Step 2
After you have soldered your T-Harness to your remote start harness, you are ready to start working on the truck. Start by removing the dash surround piece that goes around the radio and instrument cluster because the lower part of the dash slides under it slightly.
Next locate and remove the 2 9/32 bolts under the dash that hold on the lower part of the dash below the steering column.
After removing the lower part of the dash, remove the lower clamshell of the steering column by using pliers to pull out the tilt level and pulling on the shell to unsnap it.
Then pop off the fuse box cover.
Step 3
Now that your under dash wiring is exposed locate the main ignition harness under the steering column, unplug the main connector going to your ignition switch (its a bit of a trick to get it unplugged but lots of wiggling and it comes off). Then plug in your new GM-12 harness into the ignition switch and into the part you just unplugged from the ignition switch. Now route your wires around the column in the factory position how they were and re zip tie them in the factory spot.
Step 4
Next Locate a ground source, I used a metal bracket under the dash and used a self tapping bolt to connect the ground from the remote start harness to the truck. Then crawl under your dash looking up and find the white wire at the brake peddle, use the utility knife to strip a bit of the insulation off of it so you can solder a wire onto it. Run the wire from the remote start harness though the dash and down to the brake pedal and make your solder connection. Wrap this connection with electrical tape.
Install Under hood safety switch (I didn't but you should, because mine is temporally installed)
Step 5
Installing the DLPK GM Bypass Module, since the Viper system uses D2D (controls lock/unlock, security, and passlock with the computer) which is a direct cable that plugs into the remote start module and goes right to the DLPK, all the connections you need to make from the DLPK to the truck are a 12+ Ignition source when key is turned on, and a connection to the OBD2 Plug. I think the pink wire from the DLPK is the Ignition wire and I ran it to one of the ignition wires from the GM-12 harness. The purple wire from the DLPK is the OBDII communications wire which it communicates with the trucks computer though. Connect it to the purple wire in your OBDII plug under the dash, again use the utility knife to strip a bit of insulation off the wire and solder it to it then electrical tape it.
Step 6
Mount viper's on/off switch under the dash and locate the neutral safety wire from the viper module and connect it to a ground source because the truck has a built in one which it wont start if its in drive. This wire must be ground otherwise it will not work.
Step 7
Mount your antenna next to your rear view mirror. Run your antenna cable along the edge of the headliner, and down the inside of the pillar pod and into the fuse box and though the dash to the remote start.
Step 8
At this point you should check and double check every connection and start cleaning up your wiring mess with zip ties, electrical tape and split loom covers. Check to make sure there are no bare connections.
Now cut off all your excess wires you don't need to connect.
Step 9
Now follow the manual for the bypass module for its learning procedure to learn the trucks computer and such as this must be done before it will work.
Viper's 5901 remote start system defaults to "Manual transmission mode" which will not work for our trucks, so we must change this before it will remote start. To do this go to page 38 of the owners manual and refer to the procedure there, then go to page 43 and look at menu 3, you wan to change menu 1 to option 2.
One other note is I used virtual tach mode which works perfect on my truck, so I didn't need to connect any tach signal wires.
If you did all of the above your truck should remote start successfully.
I probably missed some steps but by reading the manuals for the bypass module and the Viper system you should have no problems doing this install.
-On another note I've noticed that the heated seat automaticly turn on both driver and passenger when its cold inside my truck like below 32 degrees, but once its warm inside and you remote start it they do not turn on which is a great feature of the Viper and DLPKGM combo.
Good luck and let me know if you have any questions with your install.
Pics Of My New '03 Ss
in Video & Photography
Posted
Nice, looks good! Mines got high miles too but you would never know by looking at it!