90zxdriver

Funny you mentioned cleaning the MAF. Three days ago I took apart and cleaned from the intake to the TB, including the MAF. Truck idles much better but the transmission behavior was not effected.

I'm not really sure how to describe this but lately, i would say probably the last 6 months or so, my transmission has been acting and feeling weird. It isn't slipping at all. It just seems to sometimes be slow to engage when going from another gear to drive, sometimes it will shift early or linger before shifting and can be slow to downshift. It feels less responsive, sloppy, sluggish and I seem to have to press the pedal further to get it do downshift. Specifically, if I want it to kick down into first gear, I have to mash the pedal pretty hard into the floor. Almost like i have to put it to the floor, then squish it into the carpet to get it to kick all the way down into first. Again, it isn't slipping or missing gears. The fluid was changed when I got it at 60k and is going to be changed again at 90k (currently has 86k). The fluid is a nice, translucent pink/red showing no signs of being burnt. I have never towed with it nor do I abuse it. Truck is basically stock aside from an K&N filter and exhaust, so no crazy power to beat up the 4l60E. I'm planning a tune in the near future and was hoping this could possibly be a tuning/computer issue but I just don't know. If it is the transmission, I hope it goes out before my extended warranty ends.

Everytime I see something like that I cringe then tell myself, its okay because the truck can always be brought back to stock form.

Very dirty. Such an easy job to clean, will definitely make this part regular maintance from now on.

Sounds like the G80 might be showing its age. I have heard about other people having problems with it locking and then not unlocking. The G80 is far from bulletproof. The fishtale probably made it engage due to the spinning wheels. Reversing out of your driveway might have unlocked it if it was still engaged.

Well, I also noticed as I was looking over the parts that the new belt is a different part number than the old belt. The part numbers on the two tensioners were also different, although, the part-number on the new tensioner comes back as a GM pat. Both the A/C belt and tensioner part numbers match so I went ahead and changed those as the A/C belt was cracking and the tensioner was rattling. The main serpentine belt didn't have any issued and the tensioner seemed fine. They may have been replaced before I got the truck so I just put the old stuff back on. Due to the tensioner being different and a different part number for the belt, I'm thinking the dealer gave me the wrong parts for the main serpentine belt. Also, the box the main tensioner didn't say GM anywhere on it and all three other parts had GM everywhere. I'm going to go back to the dealer and have them verify the part numbers (and also verify the tensioner is actually a GM part and they didn't sell me aftermarket... I'll be pissed!). This all started because I was bored and said, "hey, I don't remember the last time I have ever checked my air filter". Turns out, I had never cracked the intake assembly. This then lead to cleaning the MAF and then the throttle body. Then I figured while I had the whole intake system apart, it would be a great time to put on the new belts and tensioners I had previously bought. On a positive note, muck to my surprise, my truck had a K&N drop in filter and I just happened to have a re-charge kit sitting around. Also, the truck idles much smoother now, it had developed a slight shutter at idle... probably because the throttle body was black and looks like it had never been cleaned before.

New:

Old:

Finally changing my belts and tensioners. A/C belt was no problem. Issue is with the main serpentine belt tensioner. The new part is different than the original part. The old one has three mounting points and the new one only has two. However, the two do line up. I bought everything from the dealer by my VIN#. So did GM change the tensioner or did the dealer mess up and give me the wrong part?

I like everything but the headlights, they still don't look right to me. I'm not sold on the interior either. The rest of the truck looks good though. I thought AWD was also optional on the previous (NNBS) Denali's?

Do you have the steering wheel audio controls hooked up with the adapter thing?

I can't imagine how dark that is inside, especially at night. I have 50% on my truck windshield and it is tough to see at night but is awesome to drive in during the day.

A buddy of mine has a 05 Crew Cab Duramax which shouldn't be all that different from our SSS. The rear window started leaking (the seal went bad, probably from the Florida heat) and was leaking into the cab. It was on the driverside iirc and the carpet was wet under the rear driver side seat. He took it to a auto glass place and had the window re-sealed and all has been good since. Could very well be your rear window.

The HD tow mirrors are going to look great on the truck. It is too bad we didn't live closer because I really wouldn't mind picking up that white OBS you have as a DD. I really hate putting miles on the SSS... not that it really matters anymore with 86k on it.

I always smile when people comment how my "freshly waxed" truck looks when all I did was give it a bath with Adams products. Then they don't believe me its an 03' w/ 85k on it. She isn't perfect but still cleans up good for almost 100k.

So your the guy who bought up those calipers. I called Bayer to place the order and the calipers were gone!

Less things just break less often

4Lo would be his advantage, the larger engine and 4.10's would be yours. I'm not sure who would have the bigger advantage though. My guess is it would probably be pretty close. Either way, I would be pissed to break my truck over a stupid bet. If you break your truck and loose, he will have bragging rights and you will have a repair bill. But hey, your truck, if you do it, atleast make sure you video it.

Mine doesn't line up either on both sides and there are no signs that my truck has ever been hit. I think they are all a little bit off.

Awesome! There is something out there! The length of time it would be running would depend on what I'm doing. If I'm just running into the grocery store it would only be a few minutes. If I'm going out to dinner then it would be longer. I get way worse gas mileage during the summer because of this damn dog. It would be much cheaper to just leave the little guy at home but I would rather have him with me and waiting in the truck than waiting for me at home in his crate. Does the system work with an iPhone and does it tell you if the truck is running or shuts off or if the alarm is triggered?

I don't mind it. I wonder what a red and black checkered flag would look like on a VR

With summer and all the heat in Florida, I'm left with a choice. Leave the puppy at home or leave the truck running with the A/C on. I take the little guy everywhere with me so leaving him at home really isn't what I want to do. Since it has gotten hot, If I have to run into a store or step out of the truck, I leave it running and lock it with the key FOB. Leaving the key in the ignition, even with a German Shepherd in the truck, leaves me very unsettled because there trucks are very simple to break into. I had been considering upgrading the alarm to a remote start system with GPS tracking and this might be my excuse to splurge on a system. There has to be a system that would allow me to leave the truck running but disable it if the truck is moved without the system being disarmed or the alarm triggered. Some of them had a setting for a turbo timer that would leave the vehicle running for a few minutes to cool the turbo down. With a remote start I could arm the system and then start the truck but they will only run for so long before they shut the truck back off.

Awesome truck, I have been considering an OBS truck or Tahoe as a DD to keep the miles off the SS and the dog out of it. I have always liked the OBS GM's.