poopnewton

The Hoe headlights look like they add a little wing to the bottom of some ford headlights. I don't like it, looks cheap. The GMC looks better but I still don't care for it. Also is it just me or is anyone else tired of the full size truck "who can have the biggest cheap looking chromed out grill" competition. I don't even want to know what the new HD's will look like.

I just hope it beats a ecoboost in a race

If your going to do short block you could use dished pistons to lower your compression ratio and maybe still use those heads. I don't know much other than I wouldn't put a 65cc head on a stock lq9 shortblock and expect to be able to boost it enough to have the fastest SSS ever. If that's Still what your shooting for.

I didn't follow your build close enough to know exactly what your goals are but before you buy those heads I'd read this. http://xcceleration.com/cr-boost%20101.htm From what I have read I think you'd be better off using a head that will let your turbo push as much boost/air as possible through your motor. Maybe with the E85 you can get away with those heads but on pump gas there is no way I'd run those heads. The higher compression ratio will not give you as much top end horsepower as more boost will. Just saying.

With the turbo you got I would think you'd be better off putting a head with a big chamber on there and let that big turbo go to work. Your turbo with 65cc head would be like Kate Upton with a breast reduction lol

Most guys on pt.net seem to think 1 7/8 is the way to go on 6.0 and larger motors. For me as a 2wd guy if I ever get out my nightmarish hell of credit card debt and start to mod my truck I rather have more top end power than low end torque anyway. It's not like anyone who is 2wd Is ever gonna pull some great 60' on the street sitting on 20s, 22s, or 24s. Now if your awd and are one of those short stop light to stop light guys who is all about getting the best holeshot possible to beat stuff with less traction before they ever get a chance to catch back up while never going more than 10mph over the speed limit, than ok you might want to build strictly for low end torque IMO.

I'd go 1 7/8 over 1 3/4 if I got headers but then again I'd go to l92 heads and intake too if I could.

If someone can still find one for $110.00 I say do it. They are 209.00at AutoZone and only have a 3 year warranty compared to 4 years for the die hard/odyssey.

I just bought the Sears Platinum battery from sears on sale for $172.49 and it's the exact same battery as the $302 odyssey battery in different color packaging. I had to buy it online and do a in store pickup to get that price. They are normally $230.00. Anyway It's still a $hit ton of money for a battery IMO, never thought I would ever pay that for a battery but it seemed like good deal for a battery like that. Here is a link. Don't know how long they are on sale for. http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-34-78dt-price/p-02850090000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

So get the ARH then. Also if money ain't no thang and you want to be able to make it quiet get one of these http://www.maperformance.com/varex-remote-controlled-sport-muffler-dual-in-w-dual-3-outlets-var-vmk31-300.html here is a sound clip of one

I saw http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-parts-classifieds-23/bnib-eps-cam-pac-1518-pushrods-520987/

Child please!!!!!!!

Pacesetter just came out with 1 7/8 headers for 99-06 trucks. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=190883162234

A little off topic but do they make a conversation kit that would allow you to run 6l80 behind a lq9?

I win a lot of races when the person I'm racing doesn't know we are racing also.

Anyway bought a new gas cap and light is still on. From what the guy at autozone told me I think it was a P0442 code. How long should it take for it to turn off if the gas cap was the problem? Also what's the easiest was to reset the check engine light if it doesn't go out on its own?

I'm not sure the code. The guy at AutoZone said it was just a small evap leak. He said it was probably my gas cap but I thought it might be something else because it came on right after I hit a driveway too fast and got a little air with the front end.

So I got my truck a little air born the other day and right after my check engine light came on. It's for a small leak in the evap system. I check my gas cap and it's not that. Any suggestions for what I might have knocked loose.

Yup all he needs now is the pressure suit cuz I think you got him covered on his needs for a athletic supporter lol. BTW very nice build.

Yeah I got beat pretty good. That torque management after the 1-2 shift with a stock tune is a mother f#cker. Every time I race anything that's even close through 1st gear it seems like after I hit 2nd I end up down 2 or 3 car lengths trying to reel somebody back in. Anyway with that ecoboost I was even through 1st gear, down by a good 2 trucks shortly after I hit 2nd, and then hung in there down 2 or 3 lengths up about 90.

The one that beat me the other day wasn't that slow and I'm pretty sure he was completely stock.

That's good. If I ever get around to doing anything to my truck I'd like to beat those tuned ecoboosts from a roll. I see most of them on the internet running mid to upper 90's in the 1/4.

Topic says it all. How much hp ( at the crank or wheels ) to break 100 in 1/4 mile with our trucks.

Some guy on pt.net with the name AKlowriderZ71 claims to have prices so good on ARH headers he can't post them on the internet.

IMO and I'm not sure how'd you'd do it on our trucks the best place for x-pipe would be just behind the headers centered directly in between both headers.