that1dood

Do you still have retained accessory power? What did you use to hook the new HU to the trucks wiring with? Also, how the he'll did you get your truck to display instant mpg? Is that only on the older trucks?

Sounds like you got everything. Did you tuck your antenna along the top of the fender under the hood or delete it altogether?

in days past, you used to have to use two components to get everything working together (chime module/bus adapter thingy as well as a steering wheel control adapter). these days they are all built into one. keep it simple and get yourself one of the newer modules that does everything. it ends up being a little bit cheaper anyways. I originally bought the pac os-2c and swix because that's what everybody used (back in like 2005) but returned it once I discovered the new RP line of products. saved myself a few bucks and got everything I needed in one module vice two... all the big companys these days have their own version so its all preference, just don't use the threads from 5+ years ago when picking out components. Embrace advances in technology!! edited to add: put those RCA outputs to use on the new head unit and get an adapter that has them wired in already.

RP4 GM11 is what I used to install my avH-P2400 bt. It basically is a newer version of the os2c Bose (or whatever it's called) and the swix. Its for our computers with or without Bose and without on star. It retains chimes and has a rotary switch on the side of the little box for depending on which head unit you're using for the steering wheel controls. I didn't even have to set mine... All the presets matched up to the buttons already, but if you want to reassign them, that's an option as well. Best price I found was on Amazon. If you want more info or my thought on the while process let me know, I think I have some pictures of everything...

Anybody on here going to NC to get tuned this December by Justin? We should organize something to coincide and have a meet/lunch or cruise one of those days. I got my tuning done by him last year, but it seemed like everyone showed up for their time slot and left right after. If a few of you guys from here or the other forums are going, I wouldn't mind driving back up there...

Take a hard look at those pacesetters. They fit the awd nicely and the ceramic coating is very durable. My look the same as the day I installed installed them. Their only downfall is they have three inch collectors, although a good welder and a couple reducers can fix that no problem. I might be a little biased towards the pacesetters because that's what I have, but I think everyone could say the same about whatever they run. Good luck on your decision and be sure to keep us updated whichever route you go!

Why waste all the extra money when the end result will be the same?? A non factory, better flowing, better sounding exhaust is the end goal we're after right? Do it all at once, have a reputable shop do the work, get what you want, save monies for other go fast stuffs...

Pretty much... Pick out a muffler or two that you like and have a local shop bend ya up some pipes. Usually ends up being cheaper than a full bolt on kit and you get the freedom to choose how you want it done.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00133MFRO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1376886608&sr=8-1&pi=SL75 Check these out. For the awd fine and for the price they are solid. I have no complaints

I had a feeling the pcv didn't move enough air to really affect anything, so I think I'm just going to do the check valve and breather filter on the pass side to keep things simple. Thanks for the input guys. Still piecing together all the turbo stuff. Probably not going to be ready for that until I xfer to my next duty station... Right now I'm just headers, exhaust intake and tune.. my build is going a lot slower than I anticipated.

ok so I understand your setup and how the air makes it's way from PS valve cover, through engine, out DS valve cover and into the intake but I think somewhere we got lost in translation. LOL My concern is, doesn't the air going through the crankcase need to be metered (drawn into PS valve cover from somewhere after the MAF) since it's being fed back into the intake manifold and calculated into everything? I mean I guess not because it's common for guys to set their PCV up like you described... Maybe the amount of air actually going through the crankcase is way less than I'm imagining and it has a negligible impact on everything... I found this while looking for a definitive answer and thought it made pretty good sense... I bolded the part that raised this question in my head. Some interesting info. Got this from another forum. Someone posted this from the intructions of their GM LS crate engine. Positive Crankcase Ventilation System (PCV) How the PVC system works: A closed crankcase ventilation system should be used in order to provide a more complete scavenging of crankcase vapors. Filtered air from the air induction system (air cleaner) duct is supplied to the crankcase, mixed with blow-by vapors, and passes through a crankcase ventilation metering device before entering the intake manifold. The primary component in the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is the PCV flow metering orifice. Vacuum changes within the intake manifold result in flow variations of the blow-by vapors. If abnormal operating conditions occur, the design of the PCV system permits excessive amounts of blow-by vapors to back flow through the crankcase vent tube and into the engine induction system (air cleaner) to be consumed during normal combustion. This engine ventilation system design minimizes oil consumption and significantly reduces the potential for oil ingestion during vehicle limit handling maneuvers. How to set up your PVC system: • There are three ports on the LSX long block that make up the PCV system. There are two foul side ports. Both of these ports should be connected to the intake manifold and be exposed to vacuum at idle. • The two ports are 1) Front port on the valley cover. 2) Left rear (driver) valve cover. These two silver tubes may look simple but, they should not be modified. Both of the tubes have a small orifice within them that, is used in place of a PCV valve of early designs. • There is one fresh air port which is on the front of the right (passenger) valve cover. Again this is a silver tube that faces forward on the valve cover. This port should be connected to filtered clean air. This is typically within the engines air cleaner system or can be a separate air filter if using a carburetor. If you are planning on an electronic fuel injections system that uses a mass air flow meter (MAF) then, the fresh air to the PCV should be installed between the MAF and engine’s throttle body. The engine burns the air that enters the PCV system so, if the fresh air port is prior to the MAF then, this air will enter the engine without being measured by the MAF.

very impressive! I swear red is the fastest color

Ricky, I thought about that for a while, but it was my understanding that our PCV system is a 'closed' system, so to speak. Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't it be better to have the fresh air drawn in somewhere after the maf (vice drawing in unmetered air) so it's accounted for since it's essentially making it ways back into the manifold after it passes through the engine and out the DS valve cover into the intake manifold? Or are you suggesting check valve and filter on passenger side and catch-can then vent to atmosphere on driver side?

So I have everything situated and ready to go except for one thing, any PCV system experts feel free to chime in... On the stock truck manifold, the PS valve cover feeds directly into the manifold just behind the TB, but on the NNBS/TBSS set-up, its plumbed into the intake tube. I know most guys drill a hole into their intake tube and run a fitting from that to the PS valve cover when doing the NNBS/TBSS manifold swap, right? My thought/question is this: Would it be ok to plumb a fitting into the TBSS intake manifold directly aft of the throttle body instead of going the usual route and putting it between the MAF and TB on the intake tube? I know for the average joe, it's easier to drill the intake tube, but since I've shaved and relocated everything on the manifold already, why not move the PS PCV fitting to a more 'hidden' location? Does this fitting need to be before the TB because that's how it is in it's factory configuration on the new trucks? Or would it be ok to move it behind the TB like it is on our trucks in their factory configuration? Thanks for the input guys. Erick

oh I agree. I was hoping to run into the owner so I could tell him to remove those suckers... other than that though, the truck looked all stock with good original paint on her.

So I'm down here for a couple days for work and spotted a black SSS parked outside the Engineering and Logistics Complex onboard Naval Air Station Jax. Looks like it's pretty good shape. Has a set of running boards on it... Anyone from here?

looks good bro

Made a little progress on big red today... A couple of months ago, a coworker offered me a deal I couldn't pass up. Practically brand new Pioneer head unit (avh p2400-bt) for 100 bucks, it was just missing the mic and wiring harness. I didn't really ever intend on upgrading the audio in this thing but with a deal like that I had too. After doing some research, I found the PAC audio RP4-GM11 replaced the Bose OS-2C and SWIX so I went with that and ordered the mic and factory wiring harness from Amazon. Below is a breakdown of everything I bought. 100- head unit 15 - Microphone for BT 90 - PAC RP4-GM11 80 - 4G amp install kit from KnuKonceptz ~35 - relay, misc connects, etc... So for $320 (less than the cost of the head unit brand new), I was able to install the headunit, retain all steering wheel controls, get a replacement mic, bypass the stupid parking brake thing and wire the truck up for the future Sundown Audio subs. Not too shabby.. I have to say I am impressed with the quality and features of the Pioneer HU and how simple it was to hook everything up via the PAC harness thing. The new module comes preprogrammed for most brands of head units so I didn't even have to configure the steering wheel buttons. Pretty sweet if you ask me. And now onto a couple pics

Since my hood in all beat up and I need a new one anyways, I'm interested depending on what the real thing looks like. patiently waiting for some pics.

I don't have any extra brake ducts but are you in Charleston?

Sorry to get off topic for a second but slow down banshee you are going to get carpal tunnel syndrome!

so I finally had a couple days off from work and school with nothing to do so I did a little meddling with some CF vinyl I had left over from the Miata... the rumor is a little Sylmar surfboard resin plus 3m vinyl = pretty damn good looking... This will hold me over until Art gets some CF SS emblems in production. My plans are after the repaint later this year, swap out all the silver stuff with CF (bowtie, SS emblems and possibly the brake ducts)

its all good bro, i had a feeling we were thinking two different things.... anybody else got any leads?

Bro, unless there is supposed to be another truck somewhere in that picture, there is definitely a giant blue bar going across the middle of your grill...

so I've always been one for the clean "oem+" look. after browsing all the different grill options for our trucks, I have yet to find what I am looking for... does anybody know of anything like this without the giant bar going across the middle, but with more of a factory honeycomb/diamond grill material?