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Posts posted by chpspecial
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I'm not saying that that is your problem, just correcting your statement
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It can't be a vacumm leak if it idols fine but shuts off when it comes to a stop if you let the rpms keep dropping?
I am assuming I need a ls2 tb now.
Actually a small vacuum leak can help aid in idle especially if at idle the truck doesn't have enough commanded idle air flow. Similar to drilling the tb.
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The area in red is the WOT timing, this is where you should of had your timing taken out, don't worry about these values as this table is from a completely different vehicle. BTW, where you set up for a 200 shot of nitrous. 7* of timing is a lot to take out.
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My tuner was saying something similar to this and said not to bother with this intake due to leaks and having issues tuning
Proper installation fixes most issues. Most people don't take the time to properly set up for the install. They usually just want to slap things on and call it a day
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Tb isn't going to be the issue of the tb was fine before the swap. The lsxrt is sensitive to installation and can very easily have unwanted air leaks which can cause said issues.
As for everyone that keeps on throwing "tuning" under the bus, you guys need to open a book and see how an intake manifold affects an engine tune, and how the pcm/ecm handles those changes. A tune will not fix a mechanical issue such as a vacuum leak but it can mask it.
By nature, the lsxrt is a high top end manifold, loss in low end is a major sacrifice here... This is a case of throwing parts at an engine isn't necessarily equal to better performance. Research and goals are a big part of putting parts together.
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It's somewhat involved. You can't just add 7° a cross the board. All you should need to do is go to the g/sec where you are in high load and adjust there. Usually the .68+ g/sec tables on a stockish truck
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It can be used, but your stock tune needs to be "written entire" onto the new pcm.
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The tcc pwm should is the one that pushed into the pump, not on the valve body. And yes you need to remove the pan
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There is more to a dyno than just a number. Was it a load bearing dyno, or just a pancy inertia dyno? They also need to be calibrated and adjusted for atmospheric conditions.
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Sorry just saw that it's a Tbss tb. I need an ls2 for a 63 nova
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The 243 and 317 heads are almost identical minus the combustion chamber size. So what works for one will work for the other. The 243 stock will raise compression to that of an ls2
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Side business or not, you'd be surprised at the number of call and customers he has to deal with. Sometimes he can't get to them and so many come in that there are a few that slip past him.
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Hpt will not work with chrome.
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That's is the wire for the chmsl. (center high mount stop lamp). I.e. the third brake lamp. If you have a camper or bed cover this is where you connect the brake lamp to
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I don't remember what the default on the vvt set up is when there is nothing plugged into the engine side, the truck can potentially be in vvt without a signal causing it to run rough. There are two options. 1, wire in the vvt to your pcm and use a vvt calibration file, or do the vvt delete to the engine.
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Actually the engine will run with out the cam sensor. It will also throw several codes and potentially missfire. Its the crank sensor that won't let the engine run.
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Only if they have rear wheel disc brakes. Otherwise it will be different. The trucks with drums only use 3 lines not 5
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Depends on what was done to the trans parameters. If line pressures where raised far from stock, then a retune is a must. Otherwise, excessively high line pressures can result causing premature wear or even breaking hard components.
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I would see if anybody in your area has a different Dr. X harness you could try. From there I would check all of the plugs to make sure that there isn't a short or broken wire in ant of the tac/peddle/tb plugs
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Hmmmm anyone know if the PCM reads knocking would it throw an REP code?
No, kr will not set off REP. REP only comes from a tac/pedal/tb related issue.
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I don't have any issues with the tr55. How big a difference between the two?
The only difference is the gap. The TR5 use a gap of .039, the TR55 has a gap of .059
I like the TR 55 myself as when i tried using the TR5 with the smaller gap the motor didnt like it. I run my plugs between .055 to .060 since 04 with no issues.
It's not just the gap difference. They are also half a step colder. The combo of gap and heat range helps out truck that have a slight miss at idle plus improved throttle response. A tune usually over comes this, but this is how gm fixed the low or erratic idle on most truck.
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Gm released a bullitin recommending tr5 plugs. I personally would run the tr5 plug as it's a half step colder than the tr55 and has a smaller gap.
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In addition, never flash your tune with the laptop plugged into (charging from) the power port on your truck using a power inverter. This has been confirmed to fry some PCM's using HPT.
It can also fry the hpt/Efilive interface. However, Efilive has released the IGo charger as a safe power source. I have one and works great.
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The hotchkis fits with the t/a girdle. And no need for exhaust modification needed. The only thing is that the hotchkis bolts into the frame rails and requires a few bolt holes to be drilled
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ASP pulley install??? torque spec
in Engine Tech And Modification
Posted
If you are using a stock tty bolt then the procedure is correct. If switching to a reusable bolt such as an arp, follow the arp install instructions.
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