chpspecial
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Posts posted by chpspecial
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I have a pair of ls6 243 CNC'D by cbm heads. They have patriot dual valve springs, Manley valves and have been inspected and cleaned as well as decked .004 to make sure the decks are square.
I prefer local pick up due to the weight, but if the buyer is willing to pay shipping I can do that also. They sell for 1700 plus a core charge, get them here for $1500. With no core charge. Here is the info on them...
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I have the stock amp, and I can even include the Pac Bose add an amp with it
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Don't call me a pessimist, I am just an optimist with experience in this area. I pretty much maxed out a 112 on a 6.0L and even used 50/50 meth. I hardly saw a gain with the meth (confirmed with dyno tuning). It did help with fueling though if you are maxing out your injectors. Wasn't worth the effort for me.
If you dig around, I posted some very long posts on this topic like 5 years ago.
This too is exactly what I saw.
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Doesn't the hummer h2 have a center mounted shifter?
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It depends on how mechanically inclined you are. It requires removing the rear cover, wheel, caliper, rotor and axle clips, then axles. Then the axle seal, and then bearings.
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Sounds like axle bearings are going out.
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I had mine built by a local performance shop. It's built to hold 500rwhp. But here's a sufficient parts list to get you started.
RPM level IV trans:
media blast and paint transmission case
RPM sleeved input drum
RPM 3-4 clutch pack
Beast Sunshell with bearing and collar
HD Double caged 29 element sprag
4l65e low roller clutch
Billet 4th gear servo
Transgo HD-2 shift kit
corvette servos
wide 2-4 band
updated aluminum accumulator piston bushing kit
new shift solenoids
new wiring harness
new gm valvebody spacer plate
seals
gaskets
Yank 3600ss
Replace the stock valve body plate with the thicker transgo, and use the smart sunshell instead of the beast. That will be a food start
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The cliff notes to MAF vs SD tune is that a MAF tune tunes in real time based on actual air coming into the motor. The O2 sensors simply verify that the maf is operating properly and make needed adjustments if necessary. An SD tune goes off of predicted values using multiple different sensors and tables.
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I have not wanted to put any blame on my tuner up now saying that the cam and the intake were at my suggestion, I bought the intake after months of research and was convinced that it would offer the most bang for the buck but I also told the owner and his shop manager the RPM range that I wanted to make horsepower and for them to choose a cam that would meet those requirements. I actually asked for a cam that would peak from 2,500 to 5,500 thinking that the quicker I could get into 3RD gear and recover and pulling hard when I went through the lights. You got to remember I am from the day of putting a 340 HP a Corvette a Engine into a 57 Chevy using a large limb of an Oak tree to hang the hoist from, true story many times over. I told you about being imprisioned for two years in a wheelchair because of three strokes but I didn't tell you that I also suffered 100% memory loss and have had to relearn how to do everything so you have no idea how much I am beating myself up over this. I was the hero to everyone for breaking a six year old track record in my class on the Maxton Mile and after I set two records on the Ohio Mile I was the lead off story and my situation was discussed again in the last two paragraphs in the July issue of a HotRod Magazine. You think I didn't feel foolish when family and friends started calling when I got home from my last trip all knowing that I anticipated running 138 MPH not knowing I fully expected to run over 140. I even expected to have to back off on the first two or three runs because if I ran over 140 MPH I would get one warning to not run that fast without a 8 point cage, a fire supression system and a head and neck brace. So I was going to retire from landspeeed racing and run the truck as well as my Corvette on the 1/4!mile five or six times a year. So just for my feeling of personal achievement I have got to go back one more time and at least run in the 137 MPH range which sounds like a tall order from the 130 last time but only 2MPH and change from time before last and I probably have at least 50+ more HP.
I think you will be fine as long as you shift the truck earlier. Try using your tow/haul button (as long as the t/h settings haven't been changed). By default it shifts sooner than normal. Try it, if it improves your time, you're holding gears to long.
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Not doubting your tuner, but you might want to recheck the tune. And second just because a cam is advertised to "xxxx" rpm, doesn't mean you should shift it there. If the truck is no longer pulling in one gear, shift it. That intake manifold and cam are not well suited to each other. One is a high rpm flow, while the other is more of a low end torque towing application. (cam)
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That's a 4l80e not the 65 with an nvg149, o.p. we only have the one speed sensor that is mounted on the output shaft of the transfer case.
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don't forget the much taller 1st gear. Did wheatly know the truck had the 80, the 60e and 80e require different calibration files
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IIRC the 4l80 and the 6l80 have the same size output shaft, so theoretically you could use the same input gear to mate the nvg149 to a 6 speed trans
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Yes it's possible, but you need the complete interior harness from a 4x4 truck to do so, or just cut and splice wires and use a relay to trigger the 4x4 actuator
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i think you misunderstood that quote from Holly, CanadianVR. they are saying it 'shines' in higher RPM motors, very high ones such as road race specific built applications. they arent exactly saying "our manifold makes exactly the same power as stock and is kind of useless under 7k+ RPM
". truth is, the FAST is a decent chunk of change more, and doesnt have anything to show for it on a dyno. i DO prefer the composite material over the metal, yes. does the FAST LSXRT work just as well? yes it does. IMO, the hi-ram is a cheaper, better looking alternative that makes good power. to say youd want to compare those manifolds BUT L92 kind of defeats the test... any of those manifolds with L92 ports on an L92 head- stock or not- WILL outflow any of those high end setups on a cathedral port head (ie. Hi-Ram on 243 heads will flow LESS than an L92 Truck Manifold with L92/LS3 heads, period). another thing to note- the TBSS intake is simply a cathedral port L76/L92 NNBS truck manifold. they both have roughly the same size runners, and the same throttle openings. BUT like i said, the rectangular port heads flow so much more that any L92 style manifold will be the leader in a comparison. also, the FAST and Hi-Ram are available in L92 port. so if you were to compare a stock L92 truck manifold to an L92 port Holly or FAST, it would loose. thats never been a question. the question is, do you really have the money to spend over $1k on a new manifold and another $500 on a throttle to gain 10-15 WHP...? usually that answer is NO, or people use that money to go with boost and make much more power than that with a little more money. thats why you see so many TBSS and truck L92 manifold swaps.
in my professional opinion, if your going to spend the money for a $1k intake manifold, and do not have any nice heads to run with your large cam... you have skipped a step. you can take that $1k and gain a lot more power and torque across the RPM band with a set of even STOCK L92 heads and a truck L92 manifold, with a 90mm TB. you can have all that, or just a pretty manifold that has big flow capabilities BUT flowing into a head that does NOT share those flow capabilities. if you have the money to do both, more power to you. but in most cases, this is not the case. SO if you havent made your move yet, id look into a set of L92/LS3 cylinder heads and find a NNBS L92 port truck intake. thats your best bet man
oh and as for the trans shift points- CanadianVR, with your setup... your not making any noticeable power increase from say 6200-6300 when i would recommend you shift, until well after 6500 when you say your actually shifting. im guessing you have log files showing this, as simply commanding a shift at say 6600 RPM wont usually yield that RPM like that. the PCM works a little different than most would think when it comes to shift points. people have a common misconception that the higher i can get my vehicle to shift, the "faster" its going to go or the "harder" it will pull, etc. this is almost never true. your engine, and especially your specific setup has a peak torque range, and a peak power range. exceeding this only puts unnecessary stress on many components, especially the trans in this case.
Slight correction, the square/rectangle ports will always have more volume therefore low end torque, the cathedral ports will always have more velocity, hense why the cam options are so different and why intakes such as the holley and vic jr and all aftermarket intakes favor the cathedral ports. And this is why there is no good aftermarket support for the newer intakes, it very hard to beat what the stock intakes are providing.
The best bet is to pick a goal, and get parts that will achieve that goal. No need to just buy aftermarket components and expect them to work.
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The higher the number the colder the plug. Stock is a 5, an 8 would be 3 steps colder than stock. I would do A 7 or 8 at 20# depending on the fuel. The crappier the fuel, the lower the plug
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Truetrac is sold
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It has less than 3k miles. It was on a truck that later on got upgraded to a 9.5" rear. I did work for him and took his old rear end as payment
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Why not go to eficonnection.com. (i think that's what the site is, I'll verify in a few) get the sbc conversion kit to run an ls1 pcm with coils... Then do a standalone ls1 on it. Should work tons better than the other aftermarket stuff unless you are going electromotive or something high end. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk
Should cost about 800 less if you have most of the parts like coil packs and a pcm Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk
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These wheel look like they where chromed by someone. This could also explain the weight. However I used a regular bathroom scale to weigh them, not the most accurate.
Ttt, and no one here is interested in the truetrac
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If it was an original clutch fan truck you won't have any issues
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29lbs vs the stock sss wheels at 42lbs
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I have a set of centerline stingrays 20" for sale as well as a Detroit truetrac for a gm 8.5/8.625 rear end. They are all to heavy for shipping but if buyers sets it up I can ship them at their own expense.
The centerlines I am asking for 800$o and 400 for the truetrac. Once again local pick up preferred. I'm located in social.
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Best way would be to convert the truck to run on a e38 or e67 pcm with a t43 trans controller... It will also require someone with good wiring skills and capable of interpreting wiring schematics. I have seen a 4l60>>6l80 swap in a colorado, it was real easy. Buy the colorado was already an e67 truck with a t42 TCM
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Electric fans
in Bolt On Performance
Posted
This also depends on the wiring harness that the owner goes with.
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