chpspecial
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Posts posted by chpspecial
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If you are a willing to do some splicing..... you can buy a stereo 3.5mm male/male wire and cut one end off. The wires for the L/R channel will be spliced in where the xm wires are on the back of the factory head unit. Then you can toggle through the source ( fm1,fm2,am, xm or now aux). I can give you more details if your interested. I have done 4 trucks this way and sound is as clear as can be.
If you use a 5 wire aux jack from radio shack you won't loose xm. However. I don't think it will work if you don't have xm already. The radio needs to see a module for it to switch to an alternative source.
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Ahh the beauty of the internet.
Full of miss information, but here it goes.
Wait until the absolute last minute to pull the front driveshaft. When the truck is on the rollers, do not let the brakes hold the rear wheels from turning. Basically if it's in gear allow the wheels to roll. If you must stop the wheels, do so quickly and when they are about to stop, set the shifter to neutral. Never be in gear while the wheels are stopped. That's when the viscous coupler starts to fry. Do your pulls and when done, replace the driveshaft and drive off.
My truck dynoed at 640hp and 600+ torque with no issues afterwards
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Aaron these trucks are not going to Mexico. In Mexico they are only interested in rcsb trucks, and they have people who make fiberglass ss parts cheaper and with less hassle than having to steal a truck from the US. Unless it got shipped to another country, that truck is still in the area. In pieces or on a different truck, but it's here
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I ran one on a 114lsa on a Tbss. Loved the broad torque range. Response was excellent. The 111lsa will narrow the torque curve and raise it as well
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Time2kill check your inbox. It says you can't receive any new messages. Btw, the truck is an 03, the tnr is from an 06 tb
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Are you looking for just the module? I have quite a few of them available. Shoot me a PM with your truck year and I can get you the correct one for your year.
Thanks time2kill, I'll pm you in a bit. What I am doing will accomplish the same thing much cheaper with all OEM parts Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk 4There is a piece called I SIMPLE. It gives you a auxiliary input and a ipod cable. They sell for like 50-60 bucks online. Wires into your factory radioSent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2
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It's what I'm looking for, but needs to be OEM. I don't need the antena as the xm part won't be used.
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Like the title says, I am looking for an xm take out from anyone who has removed it to install an aftermarket system. This would go in my gmc with tnr. I need this so that I can add an auxiliary input and listen to Pandora.
TIA
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Correction, same size/spline count as an 80e
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The t400 trans has the same output shaft as the 80e. So either way flog you want to bolt either one to the nvg149 transfer case, you will need the time2kill adapter or the turned down 80e shaft.
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An afr of 10.5 won't cause a sputtering issue. Just bad mileage and wasted fuel. However, the truck probably did need other issues resolved. This is a good case of, "just because you have tuning software, doesn't make you a tuner"
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My motor was built by the same people and I just found out that the pistons where too tight in the bore. That caused failure of the piston skirts, the crank was undercut (which isn't a big deal) but they used the wrong bearings. That caused one of the crank bearings to start to walk. A few other issues popped up too.
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I was just playing devils advocate. I do believe in scavenging
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So just to keep the discussion going. What's the deal with top fuel dragsters and the big boys in nhra. Most have straight primaries with no collectors and have anywhere from 1600 to 8k HP. They might do it once, but they have no scavenging effect. And if it's scavenging that is best, why not run 180° headers to have a true balanced exhaust stream.
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The 4.8/5.3's in 07+ are 4 bolt just like every gen 4, but they are only 78 mm
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*87mm
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No it doesn't have to be tuned. Frost sells a harness with the extra VSS so its all plug and play. This is a simple swap. There are write ups for doing the 4l80e conversion. Other than following one of them, you'll remove the front diff and prop shaft. Pretty straight forward swap.
If you are doing the frost harness, which uses the 60e tune to control the 80e, you still need a tune to correct for the gear difference and to eliminate a few trans codes
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A 1994 BMW 850csi, one of one, just sold at a storage auction... do to the hype, the car sold for 28,000$ that was about 12-15k too high due to the car not been running and having smog issues. Auction usually have a way of artificially raising prices. But the new owner was happy.
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Bump
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Second unit is sold....
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Truck now sits in the driveway until this is done. Front diff makes a loud poppin noise if I give it any throttle at all. Please help me get this awd crap off my truck so I can drive it again. This is my transportation to work so if anyone knows a quick fix to remove awd would be great.
You where already given a parts list and process on how to go about this swap... If you where closer to me I'd do it for the parts as I have a 2wd trans ready and available.
If you had sourced a front diff as soon as the symptoms came up, you would have already gotten your truck up and running. There is a lot of labor involved in turning aa 4wd trans into a 2wd.
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I'll take the complete set-up.
Thanks for buying,
One set left, just missing one high pressure line I can source it if need be, and the single one.
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I also have two stock radios, A GM 6 disc/BOSE that came out of my 04 SSS. work like it should, no issues. CD player was still working as off a few days ago, one of the buttons is starting to fade. all the lights work on it. 150 shipped to the lower 48 OBO. It will also work on non bose trucks.
I also have a stock cd/tape player from my 03 GMC 2500 HD, Also works flawless and all lights work. 120 Shipped to the lower 48.
And lastly I have the stock BOSE amp from my 2004 SSS, I removed it because I upgraded to the factory LUX TNR and the amp was no longer compatible. With the amp I also have the PAC oem add an amp interface so that one can add subwoofers. 150 for the set OBO, Or I can split them up
All in good working condition, I simply removed the equipment when I upgraded both truck to the factory TNR system
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I don't suppose you have any parts you are looking for? This is one of the last mods I want to do to my truck but I am leaving for a vacation in three days and don't have any spare cash because of it, but tons of parts from my wrecked truck.
I need 80# injectors, and a fuel system i.e. -8 fuel lines, walbro 450 pump, aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator and an aeromotive in line fuel filter... do you have any of those parts?
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Yes all included. Except the third one. That us the unit by It's self
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need some experienced opinions
in Bolt On Performance
Posted
You will be ok with everything minus the cats. The pcm will throw the check engine light. The thermostat will be ok to do
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