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<{POST_SNAPBACK}> I think he meant Lobe Seperation Angle. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Woops! My mistake, yes that's what I meant. I was wondering why I got a over that....

I have LT's with high flow cats (the Dynatech setup), and I retained the stock pipes from the hookup points back - with the exception of a Magnaflow dual in dual out muffler (which has a built in X pipe) in place of the oem muffler. I also wanted to keep the stock exhaust tip since it's unique to the SSS, but didn't like the way it looked all sloppy and hanging down low from behind going down the street (especially after lowering the truck), so I cut and rewelded the 2 rearmost hangers to get the tip tucked up closer to the body for a cleaner look (you can just barely fit a flat hand between the tip and body now). My local exhaust shop, who carries many of the cat back brands and could suggest anything to make a sale, said that the original pipes on these trucks are plenty big and free flowing once you get rid of the stock muffler, unless you plan on running 1000 horepower. I know this is not the normal school of thought and lots of guys like changing the complete exhaust system, but it seems to flow just fine and sounds great - especially under boost That's what I did, YMMV

Why not just use the factory bracket? Sucks to drill 4 holes, but at least it's painted and has the correct contour for the front bumper.

I sent payment yesterday, hopefully the CA warehouse pickups will be ready this week

That's kinda scary though. What if a lifter falls? That would be really bad...

Then the cam wouldn't fit either. Radiator prolly has to come out I would think.

Awesome, you'll love it. A happy b-day indeed I just remembered, I spent my b day last year installing my Radix too.

A front plate is required in CA; It is especially enforced in areas with camera intersections, as they need pics of the front and back of the vehicle w/plates to nail you there.

The only problem with telling it to the judge, is that unfortunately the judge regards the police officers as professional witnesses to the court; they are his eyes and ears on the street. What and how a cop says happened is usually the gospel in court, unless there is video to the contrary. Probable cause, equipment violations, minor traffic infractions, etc, etc, they can pull over pretty much anyone and cite them, and it will fall under one of those reasons. That's what I've observed while sitting in traffic court waiting to my turn, or heard from friends who used to be cadets going on ride-alongs. Sorry you are being singled out John, I know the frustration from back in my fast motorcycle days when I felt the same way. I never got arrested, but accumulated enough citations/points to get tangled with the DMV wanting to take my license a couple times. This cop obviously has a hard on for you now, and is sharing it with his coworkers. Getting into a pissing contest with him/them will only make things worse IMO. What especially sucks is that for him, searching you out is just a fun game to play at work, but for you it's upsetting all the time and effects everyday life. Playing it cool, doing the "yes sir, no sir" thing when stopped, putting on a front plate, and removing your front tint (or making it much lighter) will definetly help, as those are the easiest things they look for to pull someone over. Your tint IS pretty dark, and at night it's probably impossible to see in, right? If they can't see you inside your vehicle, especially at night, it raises suspision. I've had cops flip U-turns in traffic because they couldn't see inside my (past) cars - and that's exactly what they told me. If you do those things, they will probably lighten up on you because they will see you are complying with the law. A buddy once got pulled over in his Corvette for speeding, but because he had the front plate installed (which looks horrible), they let him go. These are all just a bunch of thoughts that came to mind from years of cat and mouse experience with police after reading your story, hope they help.

TTT with a few lowered prices, or make an offer if you can use something here.

From what I've been told and read, the 2.8 pulley can overspin the Radix past the point of diminishing return. Ie, the MP112 spinning that fast on a 6.0 is lossing efficience at high RPM. Try a 2.9 or 3.0 and add some timing - this is according to a knowledgeable Radix source. Also according to the same source, adding the 90mm TB plus an LPE GT2-3 cam and some tuning to a Radix truck has produced an additional 94hp at the wheels on a 2WD (dyno proven) - which should help you get in those low 12's too. That is the direction I am going at least... EDIT: I just saw in your sig that you already have that cam, so the TB is the next logical step - should help a lot.

Not to mention it doesn't weigh anything, and you can remove it by yourself in 5 minutes. When you're out somewhere and get something big that you need to use the truck portion of the SS for, that's a big advatage over a hard cover IMO. Not sure how it would work with that big Intimidator wing though...

www.hornblasters.com look at some of the vids they have scaring the crap out of poeple - hilarious. Also seen on streetfire.net

That epoxy flooring is nice, I did it about 6 years ago and it has held up well.

The ones that match the logo on the tailgate were made by impoSSter I believe.

'03 PCM module: Stock tune - Reduced to $135 obo K&N FIPK black intake tube (plastic) and drop in filter: Includes the 2 rubber sleeves and 4 hose clamps to connect both ends of tube, filter is the square stock replacement type (not a cone), will breath better than stock for half the $ of a whole kit - $95 obo Stock '03 shocks: Set of 4, removed at 20k miles when I lowered the truck, good condition - $110 obo Stock '03 hood: Blue, perfect condition, can ship in Goodmark box - $225 obo Thanks for looking!

You definetly better get those mods up off the floor and on the truck.

A shift kit with Vette servos and a metal accumulator piston will help for a while, which differnet members here can hook you up with, but depending how hard you drive it will determine how long it lasts. Some guys have a stock Radix pulley/tune and a stock trans with 40-50k miles with no problem, but others who want more power go through transmissions pretty quickly. I have done the above mentioned trans work and am running a smaller pulley w/some tuning, and my trans has held up ok for almost a year now. I don't beat it up all the time, but I'm not easy on it either.

If you are at stock height, I would run Bilsteins. If lowered, there are a few other options discussed recently.

Wheels have sold, thanks for the interest.

I thought the CL Stingrays looked good until I saw them in person, then I didn't care for them. The Rapids I didn't care for in pics, but Autoguy's pic makes them look much better. CL will not powder-coat or paint the wheels for you, but will refer you to a shop to get it done local to them if you want. This is what I went with, HRE 645R; 70lbs each wheel/tire in 22x11 - www.hrewheels.com

I like those Eagle 026's, and was considering them for a while. Centerline also makes some nice styles very similar to that in a forged wheel, which will weigh less (not sure, but I think the Eagle's are cast).

Still avaialble, price reduced to $1100. OR I can break up the set if enough people commit for all 4. Like if you need one or two because yours are curbed, or need one for a spare to use w/large brakes etc.