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Bump again, now my hood is available too...

$750 is crazy. Eshocks.com typically sells Bilsteins for $259 a set including shipping. I don't see them on their website yet though, so I sent an email on Friday but haven't heard back. They are also on ebay for $300 including shipping, as Chase mentioned.

I have a Magnaflow dual in/out with the stock pipes, and really like the sound/performance. Combined with long tube headers w/high flow cats, it just has a nice loud nasty sound to it - especially when the boost comes up. Contrary to popular belief, the original piping on these trucks flows just fine once you get rid of the stock muffler. Some of the aftermarket systems I've heard are either too quiet, or sound to much like a motorboat IMO.

Yes, reinstall the stock program prior to getting the dyno tune. Otherwise the handheld is pretty much useless to anyone else when it still has your VIN locked into it. Yes, you will need to tune again after the Radix install. As a minimum you will need the Magnacharger Superchips tuner, or (preferably) a custom tune.

A 3/8" impact gun with a 20" extension and deep socket from under the hood will zip that nut off in 10-15 seconds, no extra wrench needed

My in-laws have a yellow SSR with the LS2. When I mention sometimes that they should put a Radix and Dynatechs on it, my father in law smiles yes and my mother in law rolls here eyes no

I use the Mother's clay bar, which is sold in a kit that comes with a bottle of the stuff you spray on to make it glide along the paint. It takes a little while but not bad, and makes the paint super smooth. I even used it on a brand new car and it made a big difference getting rid of the grit.

I would like to do the cam/90mm TB swap, but am a little confused on choosing between a couple cams. I know a few here have used the LPE GT2-3 with their Radix and like it, so that is the one I was planning to use. But when I went to the LPE website I came accross a GT-7 cam, which their description says recommended for f/i and turbo applications. When I called them to ask (and spoke to 2 different people) one said the two would be pretty much the same, but on vehicles that they do Magna installs on they use the GT-7. The other said the GT7 is better because it opens the exh valve a tiny bit later. Here are the specs: GT2-3: 207/220 573/.580 w 1.7 rocker 118.5 CL GT-7: 208/230 .554/.546 121CL I noticed only one says 1.7 rocker, so I wonder if the other one would require different rockers or pushrods (forgot to ask this)? Is one going to perform better? Idle smoother? I'd like to swap only once, so making the right choice is important to me. Suggestions?

Mine is at 32.5" front and 33" rear, with the equivelant to a stock tire size.

Got mine installed from the painter yesterday, and really like it. It looks just as good from inside the truck as from the outside, and instantly reminded me of years ago in my 70 Chevelle SS454 which had the original cowl induction hood (even though this one doesn't have the flapper). I'll post pics soon, and thanks again for putting this together.

Which LPE cam (or similar) are you using, GT2-3 or ? I would like to do a cam swap and the 90mm conversion, as I've heard that combination works well with a Radix. I was going to use a GT2-3, but after looking at the LPE site I saw a GT-7 cam which is recommended for f/i applications. When I called them to discuss which one to use, they said the GT7 has slightly more duration than the GT2-3, and keeps the exhaust valve closed a tiny bit longer for better f/i performance. They also said they use the GT7 on their f/i customer vehicles, not the 2-3. Any suggestions here?

Yeah, it's worth doing. It will make what you've already done work even better, and is the same way I started down the dark path (K&N FIPK, Magnaflow muffler, PCM4less). Plus if you use Bryan, if you want him to change something later when you do more mods, he only charges a small fee to change the tune. If you are planning a shift kit in the future, and you have him turn up your trans line pressure for firmer shifts now, it will have to be turned back down when the kit is installed.

For Nitroactives, use part #'s 10572 front 10018 rear

Eric has Intro Prowlers.

I just sent you a PM, but I guess you don't need a painter now. Alex - PM returned...

I picked my hood up this morning with no problems, Steve and the guys in the warehouse were really nice and helpful. They really liked seeing all of our trucks as we came in to get the hoods, and they all agreed that blue is the best SSS color They were checking out my truck, and when they saw the Radix they wanted me to come back inside the warehouse and see something I might get a kick out of. Sitting around the corner from the loading dock was a brand new Ford GT40 that belongs to the owner of Goodmark As many already know those have a s/c also, which looks just like a Radix color/style etc, sitting under a clear hood right behind the passenger compartment. What a gorgeous car, but imagine having that blower spinning at 16k RPM right behind your head Thanks John and Glenn for making this GP happen! I dropped it off at my painter on the way home, who coincidentally is going to buy my old hood for a wrecked Silverado he was doing an estimate for when I got there. Perfect!

Cool, I'll be picking mine up tomorrow...

PM sent.

Alex you might want to check around, as those prices aren't even close to what I found around here. The cheapest price I found here in L.A. was $500, the most expensive is $675. The low end was just to paint both sides of the hood, color sand and buff the top. The high side was to also blend into the fenders.

Oh boy oh boy oh boy! Do the other 2 So Cal guys want to meet down there together or something (Alex)?

One I didn't get one with the truck, and two I think they are ugly the way they sit so far off the front of the truck. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If you want to go with the minimalist approach, do what a guy I work with did on his p/u: Put the plate in a sheet metal sheer, and trim away the edges so all that's left if the letters. He mounted this to the lower air dam which is a few inches from the street (which we don't have, so you'll have to mount to to a bracket of some sort), and it seems to have passified the local PDs so far.

When I got mine I wondered the same thing. Not only how does the speaker mount, but how does the whole thing mount for that matter. However, I figured it out in time and didn't wreck my oem pillar. Just order another pillar from the dealer, and epoxy the entire pillar pod to the oem pillar so you don't see any screws or push tab fasteners - much cleaner looking IMO. Hint: Bond them together with the oem pillar installed in the truck, and the guages already in place with wires already routed to the bottom. Ie, have it just hanging a couple inches from the finaly resting place when you apply the bond (and you only need bond at the top, the bottom fits pretty snug), push it into place, and hold it together with tape overnight for the bond to set. Also, use a 12cc syringe to apply the bond, so it winds up where it belongs and not all over your dash/headliner/etc

This was just discussed recently, but I like my Extang RT soft tonneau. Very low profile (like a 1/2" I think), easy to open or remove by one person for hauling big stuff, lightweight, and reasonably water resistant. If you're looking for something to lock up stuff in your bed though, this isn't it. For that, the Pace-Edwards roll up hard cover is very low profile and secure, but expensive (>$1k), heavy, and takes up a lot of space for the side rails and storage drum. A guy I work with got one though, and it looks nice.

I think black wheels is too dark for a blue truck, but a gunmetal/titanium center with a polished lip would look nice. There is an Audi A4 on the IForged website with that exact combo, and is what I was considering before just going full polished.