dcairns

As I recall, the fluid drop was barely noticable on the dipstick when I installed my cooler. Still well within the safe operating range, but I topped it off anyway.

This is why adding a bit of nitrous to a supercharger is such a cool combo.

Bits are bits, either they write correctly or they write corrupted. And a corrupted write would show as garbage, not loss of sharpness. Better cards do affect how fast the picture can be saved to the card, and as a result, affect the pace of rapid fire shots.

I can just see him trying to explain this to the police "Honest officer, I am not drunk, I am calibrating my compass!"

Yes, the 305/50/20's will fit. I get some very minor rubbing on the rear of the driver's side fender well, but nothing to worry about.

BedRugs are very handy. Yes, the shell does bulk up the look of the truck, but a good one will blend in nicely. The combo of a shell and BegRug makes for a civilized cargo area.

There is a really big grommit already there, that you can add stuff too. You can see the white vacuum line going to my boost gauge, as it goes through the grommit in this picture.

If you can restrain your foot, the economy is the same. But if you put your foot in it, the mileage is worse. ;)

Have you upgraded your brake hoses? Upgrading the hoses to stainless steel braided is supposed to help a lot with the mushy pedal feel.

Pardon my "sun-belt" ignorance, but is that rust on the rotor typical in the "rust-belt"? or has it been sitting around unused for a year or two? I have never seen a rotor that rusty, outside of a rotor laying on the ground in a junkyard. The new setup looks really nice.

There is a set of tabs on the brake hose page, one tab for "truck/suv" that you must have missed. http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/brake...ses_truck.shtml 04-05 Silverado 1500 SS Disc Disc Kit 5 part number 672430

Found this bit of info in this thread Big Brake Kits? Confirmed the part numbers from Russells websit RUSSELL PERFORMANCE TRUCK/SUV SPEED BLEEDERS From Russells Reference Chart that makes it thread of 10mm x 1.5 x length of 30mm for the front and a thread of 10mm x 1.0 x length of 35mm for the rear Front 280029ERL 10mm x 1.5 x 27mm Thread SOLO-BLEED (pair) ??? No 30mm, closest is 27mm. Rear 280041ERL 10mm x 1.0 x 35mm Thread SOLO-BLEED (pair)

I have not heard of those before, so I looked it up on Google. Seems like there are at least two products you are mushing together here. Russell Speed Bleeders http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/639560/10002/-1 Earl's Solo Bleeders http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl's/361/280041/10002/-1 Earl's website with all the sizes listed But those are probably not the correct size, which I have no idea about. Sounds like a cool product, if we could find a way to determine the proper size to get.

That assumes the rotors are in good shape. If they look gouged or scored, they will need to be resurfaced or replaced.

Tore down the brakes and sure enough both side rear caliper pins looked to be rather thin on the grease. And it was a funny grey color. Not sure if that was the original color of the grease, but it did not look very healthy. I also noticed the left side inboard brake pad was wearing faster than the outboard. So they both were having some issues. Given the condition of the grease, I suppose I better look at the front brakes sometime soon. Pads seem to be wearing ok, but I bet the grease could at least use freshing. I had a hard time getting the correct brake hardware kit (spring clips and rubber boots). Parts stores do not always have a catagory for the SS, and the counter jokey often thinks that a 1500 Silverado is good enough, or they ask for the engine size and think it is a 1500 HD But on the third try I got the right kit. Strangely enough, it was Pep Boys that came through. I had just about given up on those guys for parts, as they have become almost useless of late, unless you want to buy Chinese trash accessories that are vaguely auto related. The correct part number for the rear Brake Hardware kit is H5659Q (they had a ProStop brand).

So you have to buy the pins to get the boots? I did re-use the boots, so if they were bad, they would have caused the problem to resurface.

A couple years ago, my right rear brake started grinding, took a look at it, and the inside brake pad was down to the metal, and gouging the disk. The other brakes looked fine, and plenty of pad left on them. So I replaced the disk and pads, and all seemed well. Then just the other day... grind grind grind.... Same exact thing, inside right rear pad is gone. Seems like this must be an issue with the caliper not moving freely on it's mounting 'bolts'. I don't recall if I put any grease on them last time. Anybody have any other ideas before I go out and re-do it again?

I love living in Southern California, I just wish a few bazillion other folks didn't love it too.

How is the Dynamat working out for you? Big difference in road noise? I have been tempted to do this for a long time.

Usually you have to buy a vehicle specific wire harness that has the plug on one end and loose wires on the other. If you got a tow package with your truck, it should have been included in the glove box, but mine was missing. You plug the "plug end" under the dash, and then connect the wires to the wires on your brake controller. And don't forget the fuse mentioned I mounted my brake controller right above my right knee only had to drill into the metal just behind the plastic for the mounting screws. That way, when it is removed, there are no holes left in the plastic. And don't forget the fuse mentioned

Gun ownership is illeagal in Mexico, unless you are military or police. The government likes to keep the people at their mercy or the mercy of whoever else has guns As a tourist in Mexico, you can even get in big trouble just having an empty shell casing in your vehicle. Mexicans are some of the nicest folks, but their corrupt goverment is killing them Made only worse by the drug cartels. Think about that next time you buy illeagal drugs.

hmmm... you could take the basic oval LED hitch cover and mask the SS logo on it, then paint the rest black. Then you would have a lit SS after the masking was removed. Kinda like this:

A. Not really. They are printing more money, which will cause long term inflation, which means things will cost you more in the future, and your saved money will be worth less. Also, the government will want to raise taxes as well to cover the costs. So in effect, you are getting money borrowed from your future and paying for it twice.

I don't recall a rubber boot back there. Just a fitting screwed in to the manifold.

Never heard that one. The intercooler pumping will help cool the intake manifold, and to a lesser degree, the supercharger itself. But the absence of this cooling seems unlikely to cause any excess heat problem to the supercharger. I so seem to recall the supercharger could do with some maintainace at 100K, so perhaps it was just time for it.