shadowsniper3006

why are you leaning to a 230 duration cam, what reasoning?

You can do a custom reg setup or use a vette fuel filter or something....search for detjoe build thread, I think he spells out how to do it in that thread Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

i guess I'm not to familiar on returnless fuel systems and what is needed to make them work, but i was under the impression that the return style fuel system is better all around. The pump is always flowing a constant amount of fuel through it keeping the pump and fuel cooler. Is there any advantage to the returnless style you want to go to, when the truck is already set up for a return style?

figure its 2 grand ish to do the swap, what is your return on investment if you do get 2 mpg better? and are you willing to wait that long to get that return?(i have no idea what it is, just asking the question). If you decide to change directions and go for performance, are you willing to work around the gears or will you change back? Brad

Disagreeing with me is never an issue, if i'm wrong i expect to be called out. Like i said i have not tested this, but I've read in more then one case that the cats are only worth a couple of hp. Although now that i'm thinking about it, maybe it was high flow cats vs none. I'd have to do some quick research. Its not just about an exhaust system, its about creating a post that has involment for our members and makes guys challenge the ideas they have "heard", and hopefully we can all walk away learning something new while still being respectful to each other. Brad

I realize some of this is my opinion vs yours and we seem to have very different opinions, but most of this i just don't buy. The last thing i want is to insult you but i do feel some of this was wrong information. I hope you do not get insulted and just take this as a friendly conversation between forum members. I will see if i can have Kevin and Zippy look over this thread to make sure I'm not spreading bad info, and if i am, i will be happy to say i was wrong and i learned something new. Either way this is a great conversation. I did a lot of internet searching on this one as well, and it appears every forum....has a "conversation" about this where some guys go one way and others go another. and just in case i argued with my self, I'm for an x pipe in any case where you choose to run exhaust, but based on velocity and equal pressures, not for back pressure in any reason. edit: i noticed you edited your post in the time i spent typing this: Who tuned your friends truck, there is no way you beat him with those mods IF the tune was right. I know what our trucks run in the quarter stock and i know what they are capable of with those mods and a good working tune. It's not because of back pressure....although i will say dual 3" on a stock cube na motor looking to turn lower rpms is a little much. And what is a y pipe on our trucks? we have cross over pipe not a y pipe and true dual pipes to the muffler.....a y pipe is either single in dual out, or dual in single out(which i think is the corsa system coming off our dual mid pipes), there is no tieing 2 sides of the exaust together but still having true dual pipes which is what we are discussing another EDIT: I think LA SS was talking to you based on this quote because i think it speeds up velocity and doesn't really add back pressure(or not enough to change anything based on that alone). Sorry if i gave the other impression

What are you basing this info on? Does an x pipe hurt the velocity with manifolds but doesn't with headers. Does it not balance the pressure with manifolds but does with headers. How does an x pipe change with cats or no cats? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

3000 stall on a dd is nothing to worry about. And it's the I6 tb converter not the ss one Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

congrats again! And i look forward to your dyno numbers. It will be nice to have more information on what guys can expect from diff. types of set ups.

What if I told you zippy holds the record for the fastest Silverado ss stock cubed Na motor....through email tuning Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Dan Are you still on stock heads? Can you post your dyno sheet to see the curve and peak with a 228 cam? I assume the 2.092 60 foot was spinning.

See if that link works, that is the above mentioned pat g 226 cam. obx headers, corsa, higher compression, heads and so on. I don't think i have my 224 sound clips anymore

IMO i would stick close to a 222-224(intake) 113-114 with a 3200 stall to be spot on. But thats not to say you can't go a little bigger and not have fun. A 226 is still in the ball park, maybe on a 113 and a 228 is still doable but if you pay attention i think you'll feel the dead spot until you get into the power band. You can run a lower duration cam like a 224 and run a 112 lsa to get the sound your looking for to, but lsa also affects when the power comes on and how long it pulls. Stock heads will also help tame everything down for now, but it does sound like heads will be in your future. At that time you can up the compression as well. If you really get into it, you also need to pick a cam that has the dynamic compression you want. A cam will bleed compression off and after the cam is done the compression that is left is called dynamic compression ratio or DCR. This also effects how good your truck will run. When your looking at cams, if they list the valve events, you can use a calc to figure out the dcr of a cam you may want to buy and compare it to other cams and pick your winner that way. Or you can give zippy a call and say i need a cam, what works? He knows! Tell him stall and your plans and thats it. Or you can pay patrick g 25 bucks or so and tell him you want a cam for a stock compression lq9, you want to target 66-6800 shift points, you want the cam to match a 3200 stall, thinking around 8.9-9.0 dcr and see what he specs out. Odds are it will be a custom grind on EPS lobes. Ed curtis also specs cams but you have to buy the cam before he gives you the specs. I understand this, and he is one of the top guys in his field, but i wanted the final decision to be up to me. I DON'T know better then him, but if i didn't like the specs i didn't want it. If 25-50 bucks won't kill you, you can learn a lot just by getting a recommendation from patrick g. You can also call comp and tell them what your thinking. And you can call texas speed and tell them what your thinking, but they tend to spec on the big side of things...ask me how i ended up with a 235 cam when patrick g said 230 for my set up.....and zippy said.....good luck with your RACE truck This is of coarse just my small opinion based on what i have learned through my builds and working on my buds SSS

I'm going to say the true cool is a over kill for most. If your not running a high stall i don't think you really need it. I'm running a 4500 stall and in the worst heat around here i got the trans to 172....once. I am not running the bypass so in 40 degree weather i had to put plexy glass over the grill to block air coming in. WIthout blocking it i couldn't get over 100 degree temps, with blocking almost all the air in cold weather it will go to 150 and hold there. I do have the cooler front and center on the truck and have not had any problems with the truck running hot or the ac not being cold, with either the stock fan or a e fan kit. However if a 3800-4500 stall is in your future, i would not run anything else....because it works so darn good. A smaller one might work, but this does the job with a couple of quirks i can work around. I ran the internal cooler for a while and the tru cool and it was about the same. Since i sent my converters guts into the internal cooler, i no longer use that one, or the tru cool i was running at that time

You don't need a big cam to plant you in the seat. You can use a cam that has great driveablity, easy to tune, makes more vacuum so you stop better, goes like hell and sounds good. My 224 cam put down 425 to the wheels through the stock intake and tb and pulled 3 1.6 60 foot times at the track with the higher converter. Adding a ms3 cam (MS3: 237/242, .603"/.609", 113 LSA) with a 3200 converter or even a 4000 converter will 60 foot slower then 224-228 cam because your not going to be using the converter that matches the need power band. Odds are it will also be slower on the top end because you'll be shifting to early for the cams peak power. Have you searched for idle clips of 224-228 cams in our trucks to see if it suites your likes? to compare for you my 224 cam with a victor intake put down 465 rwhp, my 235 cam with MUCH better heads(around $2800), 102 tb and higher compression put down 504. my best 60 foot times with my 224 cam and 3800 converter where 1.68x, 1.69x, and 1.633, so far with my 235 cam and 4500 converter i pulled one 1.695 60 time i ran 12.82 with a 224 cam and stock intake, lower compression, cheaper heads, and a ton less money, so far i ran 12.41 with the 235 cam and a crap load of better parts the 224 cam sounded great, but ran around town like it was stock, the 235 cam is ok to drive after a ton of hours of tuning. the 224 cam shifted around 6600 i think, my 235 shifts at 7200 and its not high enough...but my balls are not big enough to shift higher every time a put my foot into my truck, with this cams power band, i wonder if it will be the last I also had a cam spec'd by Patrick G for a stock cubed truck looking to run a 12 sec. pass. It was spec'd for a 3100 stall, 225 heads, 1.75 headers, and a 6400 shift point. A guy that specs cams for a living said to use a 226 cam for those specs and goals. The 3100 stall was not enough for that cam, but it still ran a 13.2 in a heavy SS(with stock rims and tire size) and put down 465 to the rear tires through the stock intake. I can try to find/post some idle clips if you are interested

think smaller. even a ms3 is to big for our trucks IMO, unless your looking for a track truck that can drive on the street. I have a 235 cam, decent sized heads, small headers and a short runner intake and my HP peaks at 7200. I'm running a 4500 stall and its close but not big enough. Granted a long runner intake can tame the power band down a little but i would still look into the 228 range of cams for a normal street truck with a lot of potential. Don't jump on the large cam band wagon, once your there you see the grass is not green. high pressure springs, less valve guide life, less spring life, high power bands, high stalls.....Get a smaller cam and get a larger set of great flowing heads to make the cam work. Just to put things into perspective, i ran a 12.8 pass on a 224 cam and 3800 stall. With lower compression and a stock rockers and a 28-2900 stall it was in the low 13s

Best of luck with the new path buddy, but we both know luck has nothing to do with it. Your one of the best, and I KNOW your going to succeed at whatever you do. If I can ever help you out with custom parts or prototypes let me know.

Hell yes!

Adam it was a pleasure meeting you and now i hope we can meet many more guys in our area. Maybe even have a dyno and track meet in our area.

Is there anyway you can ask him to join this site and make a build thread? I'm very interested in the build specs of the motor and the parts he used, and why he chose to use those parts. I would very much look forward to having someone with a build like this answer some members questions.

Thanks all! I hope we can benefit this site and help keep it the best out there. Brad

what is a variable duration cam on a 03 motor? And i have to ask how are you getting traction with a sc'd truck and 4.56 gears? DR's?

I'm running 4.56 gears now and a 28" tire. In better quality air i have not been able to beat my time set with the 4.10 gears. And my motor is built for high rpm use where most will not take it to. On the highway I'm now running 26-2700 at 70 mph. My 60 foot times are about even but i have yet to 60 foot as good as the 4.10 gears, granted i am spinning just a little. My best 60 with my current set up and 4.10 gears is 1.69x, the best with the 4.56 gears is 1.72x. My mph at the end of the track is 106.xx with the 4.10s and 105.48 with the 4.56s. The best ET with the 4.10's was 12.41 at around 500 da and the 4.56 gears was 12.55 at around -75 da. As of right now I'm not set that the 4.56 gear change is the answer, especially for a motor that makes power at lower rpms. possibly it may be better if you maintain the stock tire size, but the stock tire size also weighs more then the short and narrow tires I'm running.

I've got 110,000 on my truck and have been racing it since 28,000, so far so good. I would start with cam and heads. See what you can pull out of that 6.0 and after a year or two of racing it upgrade some more. When your buying parts for your 6.0 keep a 408 in mind. Instead of 1.750 headers for the 6.0 buy the 1.875 headers that will really help the 408. The cam will be different, but spend the money on a good set of heads now that will also work on the 408. A set of trick flow 225 heads are the best your going to get and will work great on the 6.0 and good on the 408. And then after a couple of years of running the 408 you can upgrade to a set of 235 heads and see where that gets you. If you change intakes on the 6.0, and I'm not saying you should, buy an intake that will support the 408 as well. This way you get to see and learn how much power you can pull out of the stock motor while keeping it budget friendly, using the same parts on the 408 and you won't get bored with the truck because every year you can buy one big mod to keep your interest up. Once you finally get the 408 to where its not fast enough.....then the turbo goes on.

what cam and what stall?