shadowsniper3006

So this way any time the key is on, for like tuning, the water pump will be running?

Blown 346 This info is NOT correct, not even close to the correct shaft or design. They are NOT all the same. Our shafts are bolted to the axles of the front diff and must either have the bolts broken loose while the brakes are on and a buddy can be in the truck holding the pedal down when you tell him to or something like a long pry bar can be used in between the wheel studs and wedged on the ground so the assembly can not turn in the direction you need to either loosen or then tighten the bolts. This is why it is so important we do not spread wrong information. This poor guy would have looking for a pin for who knows how long instead of just taking the bolts out. If you do not have first hand experience do not post misleading information

Yeah.... in the 11 minutes it took you to post this from your other reply....did you use google or yahoo to search for that answer? And i assume you mean ratio not size

Maybe you need to reread the post....he asked about electric water pumps and you have no information to add to this. He asked if roller rockers are worth it and the yella terra brand in particular. He is already ordering the cam, springs and push rods already. The only thing you said on topic was he should change the rockers if going with a cam...do you have any idea why he should or should not, or are you just belting out misinformation...again.

Please tell me how any of that pertains to using a water pump or roller rockers on the set up he is asking about Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Both of those items have a great price on them now. I've bought 2 pumps from Brad already and other items as well. And I'm also running both the rockers and the pump on my truck. As far as the pump goes, i can't put a hp number on it because i changed, and then dyno'd, to many things at once. I would guess anywhere from 5 to maybe 10 hp at the crank and most of it in the higher rpms. Is it worth it on most set ups, no, but is it one of those things you can do to have a one up on the next truck, yes. I would recommend this when you run out of other places to put your money because the gain is pretty small, but when everything else is max'd....gotta get that power somewhere. I saw no real benefit in cooling the truck with my 160 stat and holes drilled through it. Which by the way, make sure to drill holes in your stat if you do run this so the pump doesn't cavitate and over heat the motor. You'll also have to run some spacers if you plan on using this. Its set up for the spacing of an F body so us truck guys have to shim it out around .375 plus 2 gaskets. I'm pretty sure Kevin ran this pump as well and just spaced it out by using multiple gaskets stacked together and it worked great for him, but i would choose a spacer backed by two gaskets. I think he used a spacing of .250 total which is 4 gaskets per side, i used a .250 spacer and 2 gaskets which is .375 total, and then decided that a .375 spacer and 2 gaskets which is .5 was the best to use based on how the belt runs on the dummy pulley. As for the rockers, when i starting doing research these where the ones to get for most budget set ups. They had problems at first but have since adjusted the design. At least when i bought them, they had the lightest nose weight of all the rockers, except stock, and are a shaft per cylinder design. Its not a shaft like the jessel rockers are but the intake and exhaust on the same shaft. There are a lot of discussions as to whether roller rockers are a good buy or not. Since the stock rockers have a lighter nose weight some guys say they are better for higher rpm stability, and some guys/shops think the mounting bar that the stock rockers sit in is better for stability then the pedestal mount of the yella terras because every rocker is joined together. You can upgrade the stock rockers with comp cams or harland sharp bearings but it still doesn't have a roller tip. I bought them so you can guess what i think. I think i would rather have a roller between my valve stem and rocker arm for the friction and what i would say is less side loading of the valve stem. I also say although the stock rockers are sitting in a cradle which joins every rocker together...they are still only bolted down with one bolt each, so whats easier to flex one bolt with arm sitting in a cradle or 2 bolts joining 2 rockers together with a hardened steel shaft. My small uneducated opinion. As for setting up the yella terra rockers, they are one of the sets that work with the stock valve covers with no spacers. They also provide you with shims that can go under the new pedestals for tweaking in your lifter preload. If you do buy them, i don't torque them like the stock rockers because i don't think it works right. I torque down both intake and exhaust when i can see that cylinder is on the compression stroke and therefor both rockers are on the base circle of the cam and have no spring pressure on either of them. Because they are tied together, if you tighten one when the other has spring pressure on it, you may get a false torque on them because you are starting to compress the valve spring of the one you are not torquing down. As far as power goes, its again hard for me to guess, but not a huge amount. But again, enough to get one one step above the procharged truck next to you with out them. This is one of the mods i believe in and just do, prove me wrong and I'll listen. Hope this helps with your decision. Brad pump spacers yella terra on the truck water pump on the truck and you can see spacers by the block You said "coming home" are you armed forces?

my knowledge of how an intake effects things ends at NA, i would be BSing you if i said i really knew how it effects a FI truck. Wish i had the answer, I'll see if i can get zippy to check in.

that sounds like a good time, a red sss, a blue sss and a black ls7 sss monster all going together. I'm planing on going but i will have a 1 or 2 month old son at that point so i have to make sure everything is good and everyone is healthy before i can go.

unfortunately I've never been able to dyno test the difference in going from a 78mm stock truck intake to a 90mm tbss intake(only stock to a victor jr), but my opinion is, put your money else where. There are a lot of better areas to spend your money on that will produce better results. I have, however, seen the stock tb and intake support 425 to the wheels on my truck and a 12.8 pass NA, and i have seen the stock intake/tb support 465 to the wheels on my buddies truck and a 13.2 NA pass. Will you see results by changing, sure, but buy the better stuff, until the intake becomes the restriction or the next best bang for the buck on your list.

Check those injector connectors out. If you need pigtails it can hold you up on your daily driver. And yeah....don't drive a truck with a cam and injector change with out a tune for at least the correct injector files. When it tries to correct it will have no idea what it's doing. Will the motor survive on a mild set up, yeah, but it's just not right. Hopefully he can get you that update Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

You need adapters for the flex fuel injectors don't you? aren't they like ev6 connectors or something? i would not run ANY cam or injector change without a retune. Buy an extra pcm and have him tune that one for the change so you can drive the truck with out the new tune and then swap the pcm in right away with the new tune. Back in the day when i had mail order tunes, not email, i had 3 pcm's for my truck so i could run 2 tire sizes and always have a spare to send to my tuner for updates.

absolutely fine, like i said, this fuel pump thing is an Internet band wagon that has been repeated so many times its becoming truth...much like the stock exhaust pipes and rod bolts aren't good enough. although if you had to buy one, Zach would be a guy to buy it from. Tell him to stop around here more what 36# injectors? Flex fuel?

here ya go http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/2857-list-of-track-times-for-silverado-sss/ Use the codes at the bottom of the post to determine what mods it takes to reach a certain goal...or there about

Need to know a lot more man. What are you doing with the truck, race or daily driver? What stall do you want to run? Are you doing heads, raising compression. Are you going to run a short tire, or add gears? Other mods to truck? Goals?

moving topic easy mistake but the pcm tuning section is for questions about tuning yourself

on a return style system, I've had the stock pump to 504 at the wheels and it only started to drop off at 7000, so i would venture to say you'll be fine. last i heard SUPERSUB was running a stock flexfuel pump on his TVS 427 monster at over 700 to the wheels. Guys don't give the stock pumps enough credit.

If your going to replace the pump i would use the racetronix replacement fuel module. Its a brand new drop in replacement, take out the old and put in the new. This is what i run on my truck. But also remember the stock pump can take more then the forum bandwagon will have you believe, i ran my stock pump up to 504 rwhp and at 7000 rpm before i finally saw it start to drop pressure. Fuel module, gm SUV, high perf. type 007. The reason the marine 42 pound injectors were recommended is because they are direct fit with no rail shims or pig tail connectors, and just about every tuner has the correct files for them. When picking injectors its very important to buy injectors that your tuner has the correct info for. There are a lot of tables in the tune that have to be calibrated so the truck knows exactly what that injector is doing. Buying injectors with out proper tuning info....is a crap shoot for your tuner. The green top injectors also have proper info for them, but will require shims, pigtails, and i think different o-rings...i think.

Yah.....nice copy and paste post..... Reynaldo or Kevin can correct me if I'm wrong, but the fuel that is added or subtracted for the iat is a table gm calibrated and not accessible to us. So as long as your Ve table is tuned properly the truck should run the same afr at any temp no matter if it's using the 02s or not. There is a iat adder table in hpt but I think that is for warm up not the actual added or subtracted fuel amount for every degree of change. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

My truck runs SD open loop all the time, has been for years now. I have not found an issue yet that would have been corrected by the o2s being on. I would think the 02s would catch bad gas and help correct but again in 2 years everything has been fine. I plan on adding a MSD IAT to the intake tube and getting rid of the MAF all together this off season.

All, As i warned, going back and forth is not getting us any positive information. Opinions have been shared and both side have been heard, i don't see a benefit to keeping this thread open any longer. Brad

Tony thanks for working on a nats meet again and inviting us SSS guys. It was great to be at the 2 previous years events and I'll try to make this year as well(the blue SSS at great lakes dragaway). I hope we can have a much better turnout this time around. Brad

some updates done. post up if you know you made the list in any of the areas. Brad

Guys everyone has shared their opinions and their reasoning. Going back and forth at this point will only cluter a thread and raise tensions. Thanks Brad

Keep in mind if you run a 5 point and try to race they will check the cert date. I think they have to be recert'ed every year. Doesn't matter if your et requires one or not if it's the only belt you have then it needs to be up on certification. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Bump, if you think/know you've set a fast time in one of the categories zippy has listed please post it up so we can make sure your time goes down in Silveradoss.com history. This list does not modified for non active members, so it will stand until your time is knocked off the list. I'll be going though and checking for updates and trimming posts shortly. Please note that this list is for SSS only.