shadowsniper3006

Guys don't fear compression. Its really not bad. Stroked out ss is running like 10.8 or something on his 2300 tvs 408 in the low 11s with no meth. For na you can run 11.5 all day long on 93, can't see 91 being much of a problem either. I think I'm 11.4ish, it's been a while since I had to remember, and I can still run pour the timing on. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

I went from a tbss tb to a nw 102 and made 2 more hp with 3 degrees less timing. No I was not getting kr before, my timing is dailed on my truck. Stock cubes Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

I spent like 20 minutes typing a response full of more questions and asking what you want your truck to do....but really it comes down to one simple question. You know your going to blow the tires off the truck no matter what cam and stall you run, right? Your going to have serious traction problems so what are you going to do about that? If you want a truck that pulls on the highway that's one thing, but if you want to come off a stoplight or the line and have any shot of traction you need a plan for that. Your goal is easy to hit, It won't take much. Headers, a good tune and a little cam and you should hit it. If all you want is the hp number and a highway truck then you can run the stock stall and at least it will come off the line softer or a low stall after market or i6 trailblazer stall. For the mods you have now, have you thought about maybe headers, a new tune that you at least know something about, some trans mods, maybe a set of light weight rims with some drag radials or slicks? I think you might be happy for now with just the power the headers and a good tune would give you and you would have some supporting mods for the cam down the road when you get bored with that power. But if a cam is what you want now, then that's what you want.

I'll give it to you guys that there is some funny stuff in this thread, but remember we don't need to loose members by trash talk. If you wish to share your opinion please do it in a respectful way. For example, you could just point out that if said mustang was set up properly it would have no issues hooking on a 10.5 tire, which removes the whole problem with this "driver" discussion.

I don't have cats and there is no rasp at all. If there was, I wouldn't run it. All I have is a magnaflow Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Do you have a rear wheel hp or et in mind. Do you tow? Is this your daily driver? Do you mind higher stall converters? Do you plan on heads with higher compression? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Stock. 1.7. I would use yella terra ul nonadjustable. They are a shaft per cylinder design and easy to set up and tweak inpreload on lifters. He did have a set of these for sale as well Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

with that amount of lift, i would not run factory rockers. upgraded or not if your worried about lift already, 1.75 rockers give you more lift. Lobe lift X rocker ratio=total lift

I'm not sure what true cam gods look at but i look at the duration at .050 and the lift at the given rocker arm ratio. The lobe lift is the true cam lift and can't change but the advertised lift is what we would look at because it figures in our 1.7 rocker arm ratio. If you run a diff ratio rocker arm then you need to figure out your new lift. lobe lift times rocker ratio. If i had to guess i would say the cam was made for a stock headed truck. I would think a 3000 stall is good, 3200 is close to perfect, if your looking for ET 3400-3600 to really 60 foot. The duration is fine for a DD truck, right around what a say most of the time. The lift causes higher pressure springs and a little more wear, but no its not a 400+ cube cam....IMO its just right for a 6.0l. This cam wouldn't even be on my list for a 408.

what are the cam specs i can't see the pic at work? You have to use a pretty big cam to hit the piston. Even with large intake valves and a thin head gasket, I still have about .080 PTV on a 235, .650 cam I don't run a double roller i don't think its needed, i used the ls2 and never changed the gears. anything with c5r in the name is to expensive Stock oil pumps are fine

Ahhhhhh! Forgot about the boost ref. Thanks Reynaldo. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

how does the pressure get higher and vary so much on a return style system? Do you still have the stock reg. and fuel rails? Isn't the stock reg designed to reduce fuel pressure as rpm goes up/manifold vacuum goes down? Are your injectors tuned for this pressure? From what i was told, flow rate of the pump goes down as pressure is increased(right, wrong?), like reynaldo said maybe try reducing to the correct gm pressure or lesser and see if it runs dry.

Not there is anything bad here, but I'm going to close this thread because we don't need another one open. If anyone has any usefull info to add please contact me or any of the other mods. As always if any one has any comments or concerns always feel free to contact the mod staff or an admin. Brad

I've been told around 27% loss on awd. On joes truck it's nice to have to numbers to figure out the actual loss pulling the shaft on a mustang dyno but keep in mind the tunes where not the same and I'm not sure what mode the the dyno was in. Could have been in sim mode or the short pull mode which I forget the actual name, but sim mode will show a higher number. I always tune in the short pull mode and then go for a number in sim mode. There is an awd dyno by our houses....be cool to dyno both trucks and see the percent of loss from rear wheel to awd What would be really cool is to see a larger header and better exhaust on this monster....lots of power on the table yet

Can't even thank a guy Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for posting again old man. Can't wait to race you this year....hint....hint Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

I felt and still feel the same way, but my pump went out at about 105,000. What happened to me is rare so I believe what you said but it does happen.

Just saw your sig......red is faster huh?

Obx headers are a knock off of the first gen dynotech and will do most of what you want for a stock cubed na build. And are stainless and a bolt on with catless mid pipes for a fraction of the cost. I'm still running mine although now the build I have can greatly benefit from the arh 1.875 primary and 3" collector. If your going to stay with a mild na build stay with obx and put the extra money else where. You can also get pacesetter but they are not stainless and do not offer bolt on mid pipes. If you want to spend a touch more, get the obx jet coated and get great looks along with a header that will keep under hood temps down and possibly benefit from a faster exhaust velocity by keeping the heat in. Other bolt on opinions might be, and it depends on your definition of bolt on because heads technically bolt on: Cai Full roller rockers Heads Cam E fan E water pump Under drive pulley Thinner head gasket Ls7 lifters Ls2 lifter trays Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

If you replace the pump, use a stock one to replace it. Don't get caught up in the high volume/pressure crap. Unless your building a wild motor all it does is add more parasitic loss. IMO Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Adam the stock in and out are 2.75 and the magnaflow comes in either 2.5 or 3. So you need a small section of pipe modified and welded in for the 3" muffler on both the in and out. The dyno I use is just north of west bend and they do custom exhaust so they would be able to do this for you. My truck is exactly this. And you know my truck so there is absolutely no reason for an aftermarket exhaust system. Our stock exhaust with a muffler welded in will do Damn near anything you want. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

I'll take it Kevin, Let me know price.

65cc heads, I think 2.055 intake valve but I'd have to check for sure. .041 head gaskets. 235-240 .650-.610 111 cam. About .080 PTV clearance by measuring clay imprint. However I don't feel big cams in heavy trucks are a great idea unless your in it just for the track time. I'm running a 4500 converter right now just to get this truck close to its power band. And I'm short shifting it at 7200 because I'm not sure it can spin much faster and do it over and over again. Peak power was made right at 7200. Peak torque with a cam like this is a joke, makes only 409 at like 5200 or something Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

I'll see if i can have a admin look into your account and fix the issue Once the issue has been fixed, take up your problem with one or all of us mods at that time. Brad

... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2