shadowsniper3006

Everyone please notice the additional mods that zippy added, so if your on the list already you can post an update using the new mod codes. When listing mods, please make sure to use the codes from the lists. I hope everyone had a great season and for the guys still running, best of luck on a new PB!!!!!

I would think any interior stuff could go in the appearance section if its about cleaning or dress up like carbon fiber, or the general ss section if its questions about how to work on something inside the truck or the how to section if you make a write up of how to do something like LEDS for example. Im not sure there are enough posts about interior only topics to justify creating a new section. There is also the radio/electronics/security section for those topics. We(silverado ss mods) are always looking for ideas and topics to get more involvement in the site, so please keep sharing your comments and opinions so we can help keep interest up and members happy. If you have an idea and don't want to share it publicly please feel free to pm myself or any of the mods with your ideas. Brad

sounds mean and i can't wait to see the NA times! If your willing, can you add a brief but more complete list of mods to your first post so guys can get a feel for what to expect when they do similar mods. We have a lot of guys asking about the sound or chop of a certain cam or exhaust system and hopefully clips like this with listed mods can answer their questions. Brad

make sure you buy the right compression height pistons if going used or new used from someone (stroke/2)+rod+compression height of piston=deck hieght of block if using a zero deck stock deck is 9.240 your using (3.622/2)+6.125+x=9.240 7.936+x=9.240 x=1.304 compression height

moving to correct area. And yes if you get a tune you will get the benifit of the tune and the rear o2s can be set to no error reported so no light.

word for word.... I'm running 504 at the wheels and shifting at 7200 on stock rod bolts and i dyno to around 7300. I have hit 8030 by a mistake...twice. Rod bolts are tested with rpm not hp, and a magnacharged motor shouldn't have to test them.

I'll get my BS flag ready..... nice to hear from you again

Yeah Dan...killing us.....looking forward to the results Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

See what happens when your gone..... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Dan's cam is a currently a 228r http://www.silverado...m +swap +budget 224 on a 114 and a set of ported heads with higher compression.....you'd have a great combo

why are you decking 243 heads .030(about 6cc) just to use -8cc pistons. You could use 5.3l heads and get about the same compression, and not make a set of 243 heads have a very limited resale value. as for compression: bore: 4.03 stroke: 4.0 deck: assume 0 head gasket: assume .051 for now but can be changed head 243: 65cc, not decked piston:6cc relief 11.23 with a stock 65 cc head the way you said: bore: 4.03 stroke: 4.0 deck: assume 0 head gasket: assume .051 for now but can be changed head 243: 65cc head decked .030(about 6cc) is about a 59cc head piston:8cc relief 11.76 with the decked head. Both of these ways are a simple compression and do not include the piston to bore clearance with ring height or figure in the diameter difference in the head gasket but i can't see the guy your talking to adding that in either. I think 11.76 is to high with 93 octane but right there if you want to run E85. The valve event of your cam(constant if already bought it) should be used to figure out your dynamic compression with the static compression of the motor(variable depending on head deck and gasket thickness). 8.9-9.0 is where i understand you want the the DCR to be given pump gas. I don't know the DCR but i would start with a 65 undecked head and a 4cc valve relief, not dished, piston. this is of coarse my small uneducated opinion. Here is a link to have fun with: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html If you can swing it, add a fast lsxrt 102 intake and a NW 102 TB. What #38 pound injector? If its 38 at our 58 psi your going to run out of injector. I forgot what injector Krambo used but he was close to running out if i remember right. He had ported heads so what just worked for him would be close to perfect for you. Don't get more spring then you need, with stock heads your not going to be peaking at crazy rpm and the valves are pretty small so don't waste the hp. The more spring pressure you have the harder it is for the motor just to turn its self over, and then lossing power. I've heard a couple of reasons to run stock rockers, one i buy the other not so much. The first one is, the stock rockers have a lighter nose weight then aftermarket ones do and the nose weight is what really matters for stability so they are better, and then i add up to a certain lift. The second is the stock rockers have a girdle or bridge they sit in and this ties all the rockers together adding strength. I have seen stock rockers used with a steel gridle/bridge to improve on the AL stock one. I just don't buy this when compared to a set of rockers like yella terra which are set(2 rockers) shaft mounted or jesel which are shaft mounted. I can explain my reasoning more, but in the end its my theory(or my thinking) vs someone elses. Either way i would use yella terra rockers...although we have found out their customer service is....crap, to say the least. As was said above, a ported set of heads would make your build come to life. A set of trick flow 235 heads, would.....infect it with life Maybe Kevin can add some of his 408 know how, or Zippy will check in and add his experiance....and either can agree or correct my opinions

224 cam is about what i always say for most NA trucks. For our trucks a 3200 stall would work great, a 3400-3600 would be about spot on, but if you have the 3.73 gears you will need more converter to really make it hit hard and 60 foot. But thats if you want the best ET you can get, really a 3200 stall will still be very fun. I ran a 224 cam and a crappy 2900 stall and it took a second to get to the power band, but it still cleared the intersection faster then most cars i raced, again the gears are going to hurt when compared to the 4.10s, not to mention wider/heavier tires. For sound you would want the 112, for performance i would go with the 114 on your truck. The 114 will require less stall because it has more off idle power, the down side is it will also shift higher(minimal) on a 114 but with stock heads and a 224 cam....don't worry about shift points. My cam was a 113 FYI. i would get the valve events for each of the cams, or call the seller, and figure out the dynamic compression ratio of each cam before you buy one. I would go with the cam that has a higher DCR number since your not increasing the compression of the motor. This will also help off idle power and stall needed.

absolutely awesome. raising the bar!

I was always told 23% loss 2 wheel drive and around 27% AWD my buddy had his motor engine dynod and rear wheel dynod, if you took both of those numbers it was 21% loss, but we don't know if the motor was tuned with the correct tb and intake on it or if it was tuned with fast ez or xfi on the engine dyno. from what I'm told 15% is a clutch car.

Your choice of trans is going to make this a very interesting truck, you can launch where any cam wants to...if you can drive it right and not stall on the line if the AWD dry hooks. My first impression of your attitude is...you want to go fast and will deal with the side effects? Are you sure about the first gear on the trans i can't find that gear listed. I found 3.01? http://t56transmission.com/general-t56-posts/t56-gear-ratios Your head choice and reason is pretty good, no one wants their truck to be down for 4 weeks while their stock heads get ported. The 243 heads are, as far as i know, the best factory casting to go with based on the chamber design. Even though our stock heads flow very close to them(or the same), the 243 heads are supposed to have a quench pad in the design and offer better compression. The info i have lists the 243 heads at 65 cc so with the stock gasket you would be around 10.87, not including ring height and bore clearance and gasket volume. To hit the 11.1 you said you would need to run the .041 cometic gasket, 11.15. And i would definitely go this route. As a matter of fact, after porting i would ask the heads to be checked at 64cc to get 11.29. Which leads into the head porting, YES. The way you listed the truck as street/strip and occasionally to work.....hell yes, get them things ported and flowing some good numbers. I'm using a trick flow head but the chamber is also a 65 and i run a .041 head gasket and i have no issues at all with 93 octane and pouring the advance to it. I wish i would have went 64 or 63cc. I always recommend TEA for head porting(they actually designed the trick flow 225 port, look up their address and trick flows address: Trick Flow Specialties 285 West Avenue Tallmadge, OH 44278 Total Engine Airflow 285 West Ave Tallmadge, OH 44278 The way your sounding, i would run a stage 3 port job on the heads and after porting have them checked to 64cc, if not 63cc. and still run the .041 head gasket. I strongly recommend having them done at TEA. Do you have 91 or 93 octane in your area? Would you consider E85? Your stock fuel pump is better then guys will tell you. With my set up(504 at the tires), i didn't see a pressure drop until around 7000 rpm(i shift at 7200 and dyno to 7300). E85 changes everything Depending on the cam, the 8.1 marine injectors can go pretty far for a NA motor. I use a 42 pound SVO injector that flows 52 at our pressure, and at 7000 rpm I'm at 78% injector duty cycle....at 144MPH(4.10 gear) The TBSS intake can't hurt, I have not dyno'd with one so i can't say the power output. I've seen the stock intake and tb pull 465 to the wheel...so the long runner tbss intake with a larger TB isn't going to hurt. I love the fact that you are running the stock SS exhaust pipes, as i am to. I assume you have a muffler welded in? 12's with a NA stock cubed truck is a hard goal to reach, but you seem to have the attitude for it, so based on that and the manual trans i would say a cam on the larger side isn't going to be to bad. Keep in mind i ran a 12 sec pass on a 224 cam with a 3800 stall, but i would love to see what a 228 or 230 cam would do with your trans and possible gear ratio(hell, I'd like to see my 235 cam with your gear ratios and long runner intake....but i don't think you need that much cam). I urge you to call around and see/learn what the professional world thinks about the cam you should run. You can call comp cams, EPS cams, ed curtis(requires you to buy the cam first), texas speed, speed inc, and a crap ton of other companies. You can also email patrick g and pay a small fee to have a cam spec'd based on your setup, probably a custom EPS cam. I had him spec 2 cams and they seemed very close to what zippy would say or, knowing what i know now....what i SHOULD have run in my truck. You can also call/text Zippy, my first choice(as well as for tuning), for a cam selection to meet your needs and work where you need it to. Or trust us forum guys. I don't use the hydroboost because I'm afraid the draw on the power steering pump might have a parasitic loss on the hp i have worked so hard to get. This is my small opinion, i can't prove or disprove it. A vette upgrade might work better for you, but cost a crap ton more. I'm very interested in how your trans will effect the truck, to the point of doing about a 1 and half hours of trying to compare your truck with the t56 gear ratios and a 4.88 gear and stock size tire, to my truck with a 65e and 4.56 gear and 28.7 tire. And it pisses me of that i can't find a calc to take the different final drive gear ratios and add the effect of the tire size in to them to see how we would compare. But, based on the 3.01 t56, here is the final drive gear ratios. T56 1st: 3.01x4.88=14.688 2nd: 2.07x4.88=10.101 3rd: 1.43x4.88=6.978 4th:1.0x4.88=4.88 Me with 4l65e and 4.56 gears 1st: 3.06X4.56=13.953 2nd: 1.63X4.56=7.432 3rd: 1.0x4.56=4.56 So IF you can launch and shift like a tuned auto(and I'm not saying you can), you should be able to pull me the whole way down the track based on final drive ratios. You didn't say anything about a short tire, so i assume the 4.88 gears are to make up for a stock sized 31.8 tire. If you add in you'll be running a 31.8 tire and I'm running a 28.7, i have no idea what happens because i can't find the calc i want. Here is some BS so don't quote this: If you take the final drive ratios and divide the tire size into them, it seems like the greater the number the more acceleration you would have, just like rear end gears. SO: T56,4.88 gear with 31.8 tire 1st: 3.01x4.88=14.688/31.8=.461 2nd: 2.07x4.88=10.101/31.8=.317 3rd: 1.43x4.88=6.978/31.8=.219 4th:1.0x4.88=4.88/31.8=.153 4l65,4.56 gear with 28.7 tire 1st: 3.06X4.56=13.953/28.7=.486 2nd: 1.63X4.56=7.432/28.7=.258 3rd: 1.0x4.56=4.56/28.7=.158 based on tire size...i might 60 foot better, but after that you should come past me depending on if you have to shift to 4th and how long that takes when i'm still pulling hard in third. i base this BS on this theory: If you used a short tire with your gear final drive ratio you would expect to accelerate more meaning a numerically higher number, so: 14.688/28.7=.511 if i used a taller tire you would expect to accelerate slower meaning a numerically lower number, so: 13.953/31.8=.438 it seems to be good for a comparison reference between how two different trans, gear and tire size trucks might compare to each other. I'm nervous posting this comparison because i based it on what made sense to me, so someone prove me wrong or provide the proper calc...which i guess would be proving me wrong...but we all learn so its worth it. Sorry to use my truck to compare to yours, but i'm in the 12's...and i had no idea how to compare your trans gears to our "normal" situation. Hope this makes some kind of sense and helps(and i hope the trans part isn't bs). Brad Edit(before i even posted this): I called Zippy to see what he had to say about comparing the t56 trans with a 4.88 gear and stock tire to my set up with 4l65 trans with a 4.56 gear and a 28.7 tire. He said to use a normal calc that figures in tire size at a set rpm to MPH and the one that produces the lower MPH will be the truck with numerically higher gear and therefore accelerate faster. So here is that: Both of these use the above final drive ratio and a set rpm of 7000 to compare You: 1st gear MPH =45 2nd gear MPH=66 3rd gear MPH=95 4th gear MPH=136 Me: 1st gear MPH=43 2nd gear MPH=80 3rd gear MPH=131 just as i figured i have the potential to out 60 foot you, but the set up your using has the potential to pull much harder then my truck going down the track. He also mentioned you may not want to go with a 4.88 gear because the ring gear diameter becomes so small and has so much more stress on it then it has a tendency to break more often. He also said he doesn't think they make a clutch that will hold up to the power you may make vs the AWD stress and the weight of the truck. And he said unless your a god at driving a manual, you won't 60 foot anywhere near a correctly stalled auto so you will essentially need more hp so you can trap a higher speed then a auto truck. And again, I'm posting a lot about the trans because it will be such a large point in how your truck performs and i want to make sure you have an idea of how it compares to the standard auto and what you may need to do to get it in the 12's with your build. Again i hope this helps, and i sure am pulling for you

Yeah the 504 was NA stock cubes. the above mentioned buddy has now upgraded to a ls7 427 with ported ls3 heads and put down 545 to the rears NA. After the tuning is figured out we are waiting on track times, but the WI winters may come to early and we'll wait for next year.

the aeroforce gauges read everything the pcm sees and can display codes and reset them. It sees through the pcm so it is as accurate as the data going though your truck or logging software or tuning software. I use the dual set up in the socal diesel mount, and it looks as good as it works. very good choice for everyday monitoring. http://www.socaldiesel.com/Gauge.htm

12's Na with stock cubes is hard to come by, so far one truck, but obviously not impossible. The fact that you want to run a SC later will limit your NA motor but that doesn't mean it will not run a low 13 or break the 12's. It does mean you need to spend the money now on some good parts, not really buying what you can find used because the price is good. As far as heads go: You can use a set of ported/decked stock heads but you have to keep the decking minimal, which will hurt your NA motor. If you buy a set of ported stock heads that are decked to 68cc and run a .051 head gasket you CR would be around 10.5(assume zero deck, but when i checked my motor number one piston was .008 out of the bore). I would think that would still work for a TVS or procharger, but because of that would be the limit you could go for your NA motor. If your willing to pull the heads off and change the head gasket when you run a SC'r, you could run a .041 head gasket on the NA set up and have the benefit of 10.75 compression. Which for the money...i would do. As for the company doing the port work, i always recommend TEA, based off my experience, head/dyno comparisons in magazines and zippy's opinion of their work. here is the link to their ported heads, your looking at around $1300. They don't have a listing for 317 heads but i know they do them as i had a set. They also used to offer a stage 3(i had stage 2.5) i would ask about that. http://www.totalengineairflow.com/products-page/products/custom-porting-services/gm-products/ls1ls2ls6/gm-ls2ls6-stage-2/ But if you really want to play and get the most out of your truck, no matter what the mods, the trick flow heads are the best you can buy, In my small opinion. For a stock cubed truck i would use the 225 heads for either NA or SC, you could use the 235 but i have not done this and you might run into valve shrouding. These heads are offered in 65cc chamber and 70c, i would think the 65 is too much for a SC'd stock piston motor(10.87), and they should be able to deck the 70 cc to a 68(and run a .041 head gasket). From my experience, something about these heads really works for timing advance as well as just flow numbers. The design of the chamber(or the fact I that use their quench height recommendation) really allows the advance to be used with out hitting KR. I command 33 degrees of timing on my motor and when my buddy was using a stock cubed trick flow set up, and the truck takes it with no kr up to 7350 rpm. this can also benefit a SC'd set up with out the use of meth to get more advance. If your serous about making power this is where i would spend my money. I Paid $2800 for mine with a 10% discount(bought 2 sets), very good pac 1521 springs(for my cam and rpm), and custom hollow stem ls3 intake valves turned down for these heads. http://www.totalengineairflow.com/products-page/products/cnc-ported-cylinder-heads/gm1/ls1ls21/trick-flow-225cc-gm-ls-cylinder-heads/ $2500 Doooooo iiiiiiiiiiittttttt! For the cam, you can have Zippy, comp cams, texas speed, patrick g or any number of guys spec a cam for you. If your willing to have a cam for your NA motor and then another for the SC'd motor, you will have the best luck, but some of the FI cams can work pretty good for a NA motor by keeping cylinder pressure up, this is something you can talk about with the guy specing it. I would talk to zippy about this, however paying the minimal amount of money for a Patrick G spec is nice to have some thing to compare to and learn what another professional thinks you should use instead of forum guys like myself. Your NA cam spec is going to be very much dependent on if your willing to swap it out when you go FI. Either way figure $450. The converter is very much dependent on your cam choice for a NA motor but that depends on your choice of swapping cams and maybe re-stalling the converter when you go to FI...see the catch 22 here...almost gotta pick one if you want the max out of a setup. But if your willing to build for FI and deal with the NA...you can save money by buying parts/choosing parts once. And on top of that a lot changes if you go TVS or procharger so you need to decide that upfront, or buy parts twice. I have had luck with my circle d converter(4500) and the customer service from Chris WAS THE BEST. I told him i was going to try to break his converter...and he said...bring it(i have not yet succeeded but i'm working on it). Zippy feels the circle d converters are a little lazy below the stall(they slip more and create more heat), and chooses PI i think. I had bad luck with PI hitting the stall i wanted and will never use them again, but that's not saying the converter was not good quality. Either way figure $1000 for 3 disk so you can lock it at WOT and not worry(dyno, track if need be). As far as lifters go, unless you go with a large cam and quick valve events and high rpm, i would use the ls7 lifters. For the most money you can spend(what i use) go with morrel. LS7 about $150, morrel about $500. For the morrel stick with the lifter guides and don't get the tie bar(IMO) Get ls2 lifter guides LS2 timing chain Injectors depend on everything as well, for NA something that flows 50 at our fuel pressure should get you there and more(svo greentops). For FI maybe a deka 60, 70 something at our pressure, but it depends on how crazy you go and if you what to run E85. I would actually stick with the stock lq9 oil pump to reduce parasitic losses from high oil pressure. head gaskets depend on heads and compression wanted. Either stock gm .051 or cometic .041. Trick flow recommends .032 quench height on their 225 head. The LQ9 is supposed to be a zero deck motor, this would make quench the thickness of the head gasket. On mine i step mic'd number one piston at .008 above deck, with a .041 gasket this means you have a .033 quench(right what they want) i would use stock head bolts on the NA motor and probably on the FI motor depending on how crazy you get. Don't forget a built trans. I would buy the best right away because your going to end up there anyway...but spending twice the money if you don't buy it the first time. I would use a FLT level 7 for the NA build. For a FI build i would consider the 80 upgrade...maybe....I'm not giving in to that yet... http://www.finishlinetrans.com/transmissions/maximumPerformance4L65.htm $3300 Jon can maybe go through the upgrade cost of the 80 as he has done it, i would still buy it from FLT but a much lower cost unit. I may have missed some parts....but i'm tired and I've spent over an hour typing this at this point.... I hate to admit this....but its true. A nice Procharger set up can run 12's all damn day....a NA 12's truck is not as street-able(but ok if you do it right), requires a higher stall and will cost as much. I would still run the trick flow heads to prepare for anything in the future and be able to use a smaller cam based on the high flowing heads I also question your 475 AWHP. RWHP i would believe more. I ran 425 on TEA ported heads a 224 cam and supporting mods with 68 cc heads and .051 head gasket, around 10.5 at zero deck. I was able to run 465 with the same heads and cam and a .041 head gasket(10.75 at zero deck), yella terra rockers, e fans and e water pump and a victor intake with a 87mm tbss tb at the rear tires. My buddies truck was able to run 465 at the rears with TEA 225 heads, .041 head gasket(11.15), stock intake and tb and supporting mods like 1.750 headers, e fans, e water pump, yella terra rocker, 226 patrick g cam, cts-vr lifters and ls2 lifter trays(come on they add some power....maybe). i was also able to run 504 at the tires with more stuff i'm to tired to type, but the point is at the rear tire and with higher compression. Your talking about running more power then me with less compression and about 4% more drivetrain loss. I'm not saying it can't be done, because i didn't think a truck intake and 78mm tb would pull 465 at the rears, but i would be curious as to the parts your picking and compression. everything i said is just my small opinion based on what i have experianced and learned from hands on and research and talking to guys like zippy/ray/kevin over the years. Take it for what you want. I did not have time to proof read..i hope it isn't to bad

reynaldo do you know the amount of dish on the lq4 pistons, i tried to find it once and came up with nothing?

Yes it can take more power. Kevin ran a 10 sec pass on a 408 ci motor and a 200 shot, Chase ran 10's with his 427 turbo and many other guys in the 11's with their AWD trucks. All of us/them have a built trans and aftermarket converter, but to the best of my knowledge, all stock front shafts, stock front diffs, stock style rear diff(new posi unit in the same size), stock driveshafts(some rebalanced), and stock transfer case. It may not seem that fast but low 13's is pretty hard to get with these trucks being NA and stock cubes, to the best of my knowledge only one truck in the 12's(hope that will change soon with builds like Joes and others) Don't be so fast to change out your exhaust pipes, I'm a firm believer in the stock pipes but with a dual in/dual out muffler added in. Its hard to beat the flow of dual 2.75 stock pipes blending to a larger tail pipe. Add the $150 muffler and use the money else where. Here is the link to Joes build thread. Its really a good read and full of info. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/44004-silverado-ss-l92-hc/page__hl__detjoe I think the stock heads are great heads to use for porting. The ls6/243 heads flow pretty much the same but have a better chamber design, a quench pad a think, and are 64 cc stock. I used a set of TEA ported stock heads(317) for a couple of years, and they produced 465 at the wheels before i upgraded. To save time i don't feel like typing the mid lift numbers(no more then 12 cfm difference), but the ported stock heads flow 328(tea stage 2.5) at .600 lift and the trick flow heads flow 335. So the flow numbers are great on the stock heads, not as good as trick flows but very good. However the design of the trick flow runners and radius and valve angle and chamber design all add up to more power with out blowing your mind on flow number difference. If you have the $2800 to spend, then get the trick flow heads. If you want the best set of gm cathedral port ported heads then the 243 heads are the way to go, but if you don't want to put the extra money into it the stock heads will work great and make plenty of power for most guys. However the 243 heads will add more compression, which i would do if the extra money is there. Using the 5.3 heads you have to be careful, i think those are 61cc heads so you have to be careful how much compression your adding, not that i wouldn't go there either. if using the ported/decked stock heads i would also use a .041 head gasket to get more compression. As far as using the l92 heads, I'm not sold on them. When i had my tuning class with Greg Banish i asked him why they went with the new port design and he said they needed to get more power out of the motor using a cam that gave the same driveablity. So they got more hp and the heads flow more, but i will still stick with my cathedral port heads. I hate to sound like I'm stuck in the past, but its the way i feel. Its hard to argue with the price of them for the higher flowing head, and that most guys will love the gains from them, but if I'm asked what head to use, It'll be cathedral ports(based on my own opinions only). here is a topic that is also a great read with lots of info. make sure to read the links that joe posted http://www.silverado...e port__st__15

No one ever tells me crap.....good run Joe, very good Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

interesting question, and i don't know the exact answer(or even if they will hit), but what lift are you wanting to run? Possibly one of guys have already run a cam with that lift. I've gone to .609 with stock rockers/covers(and then yella terra) and .650 with yella terra rockers and stock covers with no spacer.

Thats what i'm thinking is more important then cam as well, but i to am not learned up on a lot of FI stuff, so I'm hoping a guy like Reynaldo can chime in with his turbo/motor/dyno/tuning experience

For our trucks its not crazy but it is on the high side, even a 228 produces a power band most guys don't really use because they don't want a 3600-3800 stall and don't shift high enough(Dan, fireman, already said his converter wasn't enough for a 228). Can you run any cam on a stock converter...yes...but you can drive with your feet to, that doesn't mean it should be done. If your on stock heads and manifolds and long runner intake it will tame the cam down(with huge power losses), but when you add larger runner heads and better headers, the power peak of the cam will get higher. And I'm not saying the power band should be used on stock heads and manifolds either. With a larger duration cam you run the risk of more overlap as well, unless the valve events have been picked to maintain compression. So your going to lower your DCR with this cam as well with out doing anything to add more static compression, a very bad choice IMO. If you wanted to run around 11.6 CR i would still say use a smaller cam , but it would be better. here is link to help:http://www.projectpontiac.com/ppsite15/compression-ratio-calculator The weight of the car VS us is HUGE in cam selection when targeting a converter stall. Again you can use a 3100 converter but a guy with a 224 cam and a 3100 converter will be showing you his tail lights....every time. And with heads, 11.4ish cr and headers, i would still say run a 3200-3400 on a 224 cam for the best 60 foot time, a 2800-2900 is still fun. What numbers does this GTO produce at the tires? And after i ask that, I'm going to say it doesn't really matter, because it can put down a dyno number that will blow your mind.....and a 224 cam will still wait for him at the end of the track because the dyno hp isn't the track ET. It's like a 1000 hp car running a 12 second pass because the turbo doesn't spool until the 1000 foot mark, but it puts down a 1000 hp.... It really isn't close enough, the gto will run a much lower stall then we will and run way better. I know it seems close, but it does make that much difference. I do applaud you wanting to pick your own cam based on the information in front of you, but we are trying to lead you in the right direction so you don't either buy a new cam or go through the BS of pulling the trans and running a converter you never wanted in the first place. So we are really trying to save you money and spend it how WE should have the first time around. And although i did not run a 230 cam i do have a good example for you. Patrick G picks cams for a living, I'm going to assume he is good at his job based on the success that guys have had running his cams. I paid him to spec a cam out for my SS with high flowing heads, 11.6 compression, 1.75 headers, a short runner intake(bad for converter) and a 4000 stall and he said a 230-234 cam on a 111lsa to try to control the shift points. In my experience the converter would still be to low and the cam would have pulled past the target shift point, but who am i compared to him.

in this case i think the turbo size can play more of role in the converter then the cam. Hopefully Reynaldo can chime in with his FI experiance. Are you launching off boost? Have you raced it and got a 60 foot time? you have a ls1 in the truck? why did you lose the 6.0?