Professiona1 m0d

Riviera, Thanks for your post about your run, that actually gave me some food for thought. Although now that brought up some questions for my setup, are you RWD, and do you spin much off the line?

Nice Fireman31! Post up your results after you get your new DRs! I have a set of 28" DRs myself, but unfortunately this new pumpkin sits too low to the ground for me to ever use them again, hence the taller tire of 33".

Thanks for the replies, Yeah, I've done some math already, my target is roughly 200 RPM before redline (6200 RPM). And I do not want to be in overdrive when I cross that line, so definitely third. Short of doing a 4.53, I won't be anywhere near redline crossing the line in third.

Hey guys, I am looking for some input on which rear end gear I should go with. I am in the process of redoing the rear end, and this had been planned for sometime before I actually stripped a bunch of teeth off of my Richmond 4.10 gear (with an Eaton Posi), which happened a couple of weeks ago on the highway. Anyway, here is what I have: - Winters Performance 3.08 Quick Change Rear End (Tubbed) - Ford 10" 3.08 Ring and Pinion Gear - Steel Full Spool - Custom 35 Spline Steel Axles with 6 Lug Hubs - Custom Steel Tubes - 22 Spline Straight Cut Quick Change Gears - Gear Ratios Adjustable from 1.84 to 5.11 - Calvert Racing CalTracs Traction Bars - Rancho RS9000XL Series Adjustable Rear Shocks - Solid Rear Suspension - Mickey Thompson Classic Lock 16x12" Rims - M&H Racemaster Street & Strip (D.O.T.) 33.0/15.50-16LT Tires As you can see, it is a quick change rear end, I can change the gear ratio in a matter of 15 minutes. Obviously I will probably need to dial it in at the track, but to save myself some time, I was curious at what you all would recommend. I was thinking a 3.57 gear myself, as the 4.10 was previously too much for 32" street slicks (they were pretty hard rubber though). The only real thing that will change with this setup compared to the last time I was at the track are the slicks (softer and wider, pretty much the same height though), and then of course the gear choice. Other than that, all of the other factors are the same. Any input would be appreciated!

I see, well for your situation with 33 lbs of boost, I would recommend no leaner than 11.5:1 AFR.

With my setup, I run very rich with a 10.5:1 AFR (which when I tuned it, it was a 60 degree day). I do not drive my truck in the winter (being in Chicago), so I cannot accurately give you a typical range I experience. However, I did take out the truck once this year, it was about 20 degrees outside, I needed to pull it into the garage to work on it. And after I was done, I took it out for a quick test drive to get it up to temperature. I wide-opened throttled it once, and saw 2 extra lbs of boost over my normal of 7 lbs during spring/summer. My AFR which is normally 10.5:1 during the spring/summer time went to 11.5-12.0:1 AFR. I hope this helps you a bit. And an FYI as to why I run rich is, I do not tune for methanol (IE: no extra timing or tuning the AFR to lean it out with the methanol). I strictly use meth to cool down the IATs. Without meth, my AFR is leaner around 11.5:1. I did this so incase I ever ran out of meth, and/or experienced a meth pump failure during a run, my engine should not experience any extra stress or cause any damage. When you say "heavily modded," what mods are you talking about? And I too do all of my tuning.

It doesn't shift as hard because the shift pressures were lowered in this new tune. If nothing was changed mechanically (IE: new shift kit), then it's definitely the tune. I would honestly leave the shift pressures as they are. The purpose of the shift kit is to change the flow of fluid and the pressures, but it does so in the proper way. That's not to say you can increase shift pressure through the computer, it just puts extra strain on the pumps and other components. FYI, hard shifting is not necessarily better, it definitely causes more strain on the drivetrain.

You know, this really pisses me off, how can people do this? I mean, what is their problem? Sorry to see this, my heart literally goes out to you.

Thanks guys!

Yeah, I drew the whole thing up.

Well, here is my new addition, I can't wait to get my other shoulder done now. I have drawn it all out already, I just want to wait for this current one to heal a bit.

They do have great prices there. FYI, those dyno numbers are direct from the manufacturer's. Some manufacturer's dynoed via wheel HP, while some dynoed via crank HP, you need to do a little investigation and conversion to get an accurate comparasion unfortunately.

Exactly as Kelley said! You WILL be fine!

System, I would have to absolutely agree with Krambo and the others. Stay with the 3" headers and 3" full dual there after, get it done and out of mind. Also make sure you get some sort of cross pipe. Then get it tuned! Just as an FYI, I have my blown 408 go to 3" headers which both go to a Y collector (3" as well), then 3" pipe with a 3" cutout runs to the muffler which then has two outputs at 2.5". On the dyno I saw no gain when the cutout was open or when it was closed. You should be just fine. I am glad we all could help you!

A tune of course will be needed when in PE mode, otherwise it would have adverse affects on AFR, fuel mileage, and such.

Yes, back pressure helps an engine run richer than an exhaust system that is free flowing. This is accomplished because more back pressure means more work the motor has to perform in order for it to evacuate exhaust gases from a particular cylinder, which in turn affects the cylinder that is on its intake stroke. In short, less work on a cylinder's exhaust stroke, means more air is able to enter a different cylinder on that same revolution. However, with modern computer controlled systems and monitoring (and of course as long as the fuel system can support it), the computer will adjust for such changes and adjust for stochiometric operation. Or simple tuning can help the computer along before the computer automatically learns and adjusts. Obviously dramatic changes in back pressure the computer will most likely not be able to compensate for. A free flowing exhaust may also affect fuel mileage in a positive or negative way. With this said, please read one of my favorite articles that may help you better understand this than I was able to explain. http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/...etorquemyth.htm

Hmm, that may work, but do you really want to risk it? I was lucky when mine twisted, because sometimes when they twist or worse, break, they can take out other driveline pieces. Like the tranny or diff. It wouldn't hurt to upgrade it all, other than your pocket book. My whole custom made setup only ran about a grand to give you a little insight. Let me know what you decide to do!

Absolutely moregrip, mine was custom made by Suburban Driveline here in Illinois, they are actually very well known over here for their custom drivelines and for performance. I don't know how big they are out of state though. Anyway, what is the diameter of your stock size? Mine was about 3" or so, maybe even less, I forget. Unfortunately I don't believe it's an exact science, so the only way I knew I needed a new driveshaft was after I twisted mine.

It really does, I wish I was able to see 10 lbs!

To answer your question, I am running an FLT 4L80-E level 4. I have a custom 2-piece driveshaft that is 6 inches thick, with a Mopar 3500 series center bearing. And yes, it is a little surprising to have seen 25% drivetrain loss, I wouldn't have believed it myself. Unfortunately, that is the amount that I see. Back to the topic, yeah, they must be spinning the living piss out of that blower to see that much boost! I don't expect it would be safe though?

I am running the stock Magna Charger one that came with the kit. Which is an air-to-water cooler, I don't remember the exact size though.

Well thank you sir! And my hat is off to you as well, I am really excited to see how a fellow buddy's turns out!

Yes I do, it is on my website, just click on my mods link in my signature, then go to the Pictures part of the site. It's up near the top. Unfortunately the torque didn't print out on that sheet, only HP for some strange reason was the only one that showed up that run. The other sheets were sub 600 RWHP all just by a little bit, so naturally I had to use my 602 RWHP graph!

Yeah, as I said, perfect combination your motor! <Me jealous, well...Maybe...Just maybe!> Anyway, I would honestly think you may actually get more boost than 7-9lbs with the 3.0", but then again it does depend on your heads/cam setup. It should be interesting to see!

You should be able to run more boost anyway, you have less cubes. The MP122HH cannot really handle anything larger than a 408 unfortunately. But your setup should be pretty close to perfect, as far as being able to run more boost and still make really great power.