Professiona1 m0d

First off, that is a pretty good deal. Secondly, you definitely would see a gain in porting and polishing those stock factory heads. One thing though to always remember with forced induced motors, you will never see gains as high as you would if you did that to a naturally aspirated motor. Also another thing, you will lose some boost, not that much though. It definitely would be a powerful motor. Keep us informed on how it goes! By the way, as for intakes, someone else will need to answer that one for you. Don't know all that much about the aftermarket ones other than the FAST LSX intake.

No modification needed for the crankshaft, however, it is recommended you hone the cylinder walls. Yes, you do have to pull the motor, dissassemble it (remove the heads and etc...), and then rebuild it. As far as how long something like that would take it completely relative to the engine shop/guy. I've seen it done as little as a week (all the parts where on hand) and as long as a month (ran into part problems, back orders, etc...).

You shouldn't need to machine the block at all to make the new crankshaft fit. That's the beauty of it.

Trickmob, you could actually do a 402 CID motor with just honing the cylinder bores (you actually do not need to over bore them and pay for that expensive machine work). Then you just get a different crankshaft with at least a 4.000" stroke. Essentially all you are doing is stroking it. You can make a LQ9 to a 402 CID motor fairly cheap and easily. Hope that answers your question.

Okay, so I finally had some time after work tonight to strip it down a bit. It took out pistons 7 and 8 only. However, it also took out the connecting rod to 8 and punched a whole at the bottom part of the block where cylinder 8 is. Also messed up the heads of where 7 and 8 would be. Each picture is of something different. Also it demolished the oil pump. Sorry for the quality, I used the camera on my phone, I will take some high resolution pictures when I get the time.

Exactly why I went with the 205 heads! What a great deal, if the only good I get from this is the extra power and great deal on the heads, I will be happy with that. 26 degrees was amazing too, added 54 RWHP and something like 63 RWTQ. Just a little bit of extra information with running the methonal. With that setup I was able to advance the timing even more to 30 degrees total before I started seeing knock and ping (that is, at 30 there was knock and ping). I then opted 26 degrees to keep it safe, somewhat safe obviously, after all, the motor blew up anyway.

I totally agree with you H8R, however, a buddy of mine is selling his new, unused, AFR 205cc heads. He bought them with the intention of putting them on his Camaro, however, he sold the Camaro and has had them sitting dormant in his garage. I picked them up for only $1,200, good friend and wanted to get rid of them. With the current situation and needing new heads, this was a win for me. Also, eventually when I do the bigger blower, I can always get them re-ported. And in the end, it probably will still be cheaper than buyer new 225s directly from AFR.

Thanks for all the support guys, greatly appreciate it. As for the 225 heads, unforunately with my current blower being so small for such a big engine, if I went with the 225 heads, people were saying I would only see 3 PSI of boost only! That is why I am going with the 205 heads, where I should see at least 5 PSI of boost. Now don't hold me against that, I will just have to see in the end. Man does that new MP122H look good right about now! Too bad I can't afford that with this unexpected engine disaster.

By the way, as long as you run a mild tune, unlike mine, you should be more than fine. I knew I was stressing it from the beginning.

I only had 7K on the motor with 8PSI from the get go. When I did the Radix, I also did the LQ9. As far as it goes, it only grenaded from a defective injector. It probably has been pinging for the last month or so is my best guess. When I had it dyno tuned back in September, I was running 26 degrees advance with no knock or ping while on the dyno, that is, with methonal as well. My guess, since then I have been having trouble without even knowing, the funny thing is I have not had any signs, i.e. bogging or sounds to tell. The new 408 will need the following: - New LQ9 iron block (no aluminum for me), stroked and bored - New forged crankshaft - New forged connecting rods - New forged pistons - New heads (my old ones I were going to port and polish, but at this point, they are toast). I'm going with the AFR Mongoose 205cc heads - Various other odds and ends that I will need as soon as I have time to strip down my old blown block and diagnose it and see what I can salvage. As far as it goes, most of the forged parts I have not decided on yet. Other than probably a forged Eagle crankshaft.

As the title says. Blew up my stock LQ9 the other night coming home from O'Hare airport heading north bound on 294. Was doing 75 MPH at roughly 3200 RPM. So far it looks like one of the injectors failed and pre-detonated on that cylinder's compression stroke. Pinged so hard it took out the rod and crank. Crank then caused 2 or 3 other pistons to go. So far from just dropping the oil pan I can tell there is nothing left of pistons 6-8. Just a connecting rod, and a crap load of metal and pieces at the bottom. Stock bottom end, to be expected I guess. Anyway, the good news that comes from all of this is that I am finally building my 408 I have always wanted. Found a new LQ9 block, over boring it 0.030". Doing all forged internals (crank, connecting rods, pistons). Also getting some AFR 205cc heads for the new motor. The blower is going back on as well. I know the blower isn't meant for this motor, but it will add a little extra power until I can afford an Eaton MP122H. Also keeping 10:1 compression on this motor. Should be a fun little motor and project.

I'm running meth with my Radix. I love it! It was a great investment. I was able to go from 16 degrees advance at WOT to 26 degrees advance at WOT with no knock/ping/predetonation. I picked up an additional 25 RWHP with about 34 RWTQ, and was proven on the dyno. As far as IATs go, it helped a bit, not much though. Normal cruising on a 60 degree day my IAT is usually at about 100 degrees. When I WOT it, it usually jumps past 140 degrees. I just did a test tonight. Like I said, it mostly helped out by allowing me to pick up a few extra ponies. Hope this helps, if you have any more questions, let me know, I will be glad to help!

Let's try and get as many people as we can from Illinois to get together. As far as how, I have no idea. I've never set one of these up either.

That's a great idea. Hopefully we could get something organized soon!

Sims would be O2 sensor simulators, which replace the true O2 sensors to fool the computer into thinking the O2 sensors are present and operating normal so you don't throw codes.

Hmmm... I mean there is only so much you can disable as far as MILs go. If you have sims in there, it almost sounds as if they are not being grounded properly. Maybe due to ceramic coating? Or even maybe they are bad. I'm stumped on this one.

Do you have sims instead? I don't have O2s or cats either (and no sims), however, I just disabled all the MILs with my HP Tuners software.

DTCs: P0054 - HO2S Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0060 - HO2S Heater Resistance Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0138* - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Hi Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 P2A01 - HO2S Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2 P2A04 - HO2S Performance Bank 2 Sensor 2 Sounds like you have bad O2 sensors, I could be wrong though.

I remember! It supposedly happened to BigTex. Yeah, I would also like to know why he went to 12.6. Someone said possibly because the Radix cannot flow enough for those heads.

Thank you very much guys for all your feedback! I really like the TFS 215cc heads, however, that GM High Performance artictle said they needed to make modifications to the valve covers. Don't know what all would needed to be done. I also really like those West Coast Cylinder Heads 212cc ported Edelbrock heads you pointed out. I once saw those before but never really looked into it. They look great! My other biggest concern is that the Radix that I currently have on it (without upgrading to the new MP122H yet), wouldn't be able to flow enough. I read somewhere on here about that one user who went from 12.3 seconds to 12.6 seconds after doing the 225cc heads. Will the Radix be fine with 215cc heads?

As far as I know, I heard the RHS heads are actually made by ET and just branded RHS with extra perks and polishing. Also another question comes into play....Is the 225cc intake too much for the Radix to push? What would be the major advantage in going with the 225 (other than flow obviously)?

Now do the L92 heads bolt directly up to the Radix intake manifold or does it require a new one? And I would love a new MP122H supercharger, however, it's out on my ball park as of right now! Also I promised the wife I'd stop after heads.... She still doesn't see how I was the one that compromised with that decision! I just need to weigh out my options and find out which of the heads will be best for my application.

Hey guys! I'm having trouble deciding which cylinder heads to go with. My signature has all my mods in it. However, along with the cylinder heads, I will be also adding my FAST 90mm throttle body, and 60lb injectors. So I don't know which heads to get for my application. I guess a problem with my Radix is that it can't flow or provide the greatest CFM so I can't go with too large of a head. Anyway, here are my choices. Also any recommendation outside of these are welcome! AFR 205cc TFS 215cc ET 225cc Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks so much!

I have one. I live here in Chicago though, so we get winters. It helps out a lot in snow and ice, or just plain old wet pavement for that matter. Heck, it even helps to keep the rear tires from spinning. However, I wouldn't recommend this for a race application. One other thing to point out. The ones that you buy retail of these things do not have reinforced tie down corners. That super tough vinyl isn't so tough. After only 1 week of use, 3 out of 4 corners ripped. The metal o-rings used to keep the tie down straps from ripping out of the vinyl just ended up being ripped out themselves. They have a solution for this. The will send you out aluminum clamps to reinforce the vinyl corners (it basically sandwiches them) when they send you out a replacement. However, their up coming model (to be released next year) has super thick-hard plastic molded into those corners (about 1/2 an inch thick or so). After my original one ripped (the 3 out of 4 corners), I called them and they sent me out a brand new one (next year's model) to beta test for them. Either way though, if you ever have any problems, they have great customer service and are more than willing enough to take care of you! They shipped me out a brand new one, free of charge, and 2nd day'd it to me, free of charge as well. And so far after 2 months, I haven't had any problems with this new one! Like I said, they are aware of the problem and have addressed it. Hope this helps!

I just have one question about this new setup. Would I see a gain on my current configuration with what I have done? From my understanding is that this supercharger is only for larger cubic inch motors. Because as far as it goes, I really do not want to run anymore boost on my current setup without decreasing the compression. And like I said, as far as it looks, this supercharger would be great for producing more boost. Please correct me if I am wrong, because I would be interested in this if that is the case! Thanks for the help!