onebadmax
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Posts posted by onebadmax
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^X2
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I had the same problem with my ARH LTs, it turned out the bolts holding the exhaust hanger on the trans were loose. I loosened the drivers side mid pipe and pushed it away from the trans bracket and re-torqued everything. Also check the passenger side for clearence between the starter. Exhaust wrap isn't going to fix it man.
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Obx is bolt on. I'm sure arh would dyno better, but is 5 hp worth the $500 more to most guys....better ways to use that money for most guys not chasing one more tenth.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Aren't we all chasing one more tenth?!? LOL
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My point has been made, hashed out, and made again.... LOL Thanks guys.
Get it tuned promptly, but in the mean time, don't sweat it. Get it tuned when its convienent for you.
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They are a complete bolt on, with mid pipes system, to me that alone is worth 700 more dollars. And I would be willing to wager that, ARH make more hp. Design plays a large role in performance, not just size. But to each their own.
BTW do you have any good videos with your cam, that you'd be willing to share? About to pull trigger on a cam, just need a little push.
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if you want to mod, you need to retune. if its THAT much of a hassle then you dont need to be modding
Like I said, you don't HAVE to retune, but it is recommended. Nothing I have said here is incorrect. Not really sure why you are arguing...
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someone refesh my memory, what is needed for a converter retune?
maybe the lower mph shift speeds
maybe the converter slip causes that solinoid B code
maybe the clutch duty cycle
?
This^ for the trans tuning. I also changed spark and PE, under the stall rpm, seemed to help the engine rev faster to stall rpm.
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part of it in my opinion. also what is the point in modding if you cant get the most of what you just spent your money on. I sure a hell dont want to spend my money on something and look back and go "well its not bad but could be better"
LOL, I agree. All I'm saying is, you don't HAVE to retune right away. For some people, it can be a hassle.
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Ya my retunes are free other than shipping from IA to FL... Wouldnt the converter locking and unlock excessively cause high trans temp? So it's is possible to get by with installing converter and not retuning right away but to reach max benefit it IS needed
This is what I was getting at.....
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although you are correct, but what is the point?
Some people don't want to retune their truck 100 times. Wait for big mods to retune, save money. I do my on tuning so Idc.
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so im browsing PI vigilante converters but cant seem to find a price on em do they only tell you $$ when you call and order? also after install of converter do you need to re-tune for the higher stall?
No, you don't have to retune. You may experience some low speed lockup issues, where the converter locks/unlocks a lot. You Might* hit the rev limiter on a WOT run also....it's unlikely with a low stall converter though. You can absolutely throw your converter in and drive it without a tune, it will still be plenty fun!
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I'm sure the ARH headers are very nice, but they are almost $1000 more than the OBX. For that money you could get a cam, intake, and tune with the only downside being a zip-tie to hold a spark plug wire out of the way
For those of us on a budget, it's pretty much a no-brainer.
Shop around, you might find a good deal.
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ARH and be done with it
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I have read where they could be 43.8 lbs/hr?
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Go ahead man, I'm just thinking ahead, for when my diff fails. I got plenty of time man. It's all yours.
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Man you can't really go wrong with the Circle D 3200. It's only 400.00 bones, and it works quite well.
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What's fair on the front diff? Idk
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Front diff?
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I thought these were popular injectors!!!!!. Nobody else has any info? Guess I'm going to do this the hard way.
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I know I'm in the minority here, but LTs, with no cats, sound pretty damn good through the factory muffler.
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ya we did a lil.... Can someone explain more the difference in what a "loose" Converter and "tight" difference is? How do they drive?
I've never ridden or owned a vehicle that had a stall converter....
Basically, the first time you drive it with the new stall, it's going to feel like the brakes are on slightly, until you floor it that is. Best way I know how to describe it. When somebody says their converter is loose, it means it takes more engine rpm to accelerate the vehicle, until it hits its stall rpm, then it behaves like any other converter.
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Tell me a lil more what are your rmps at 25-30mph and 45mph any video of just easy driving?
What's your number bro, I send you a video. Normal part throttle acceleration is around 2500 RPM. I asked Chris to set my converter up a little loose though. My truck is tuned with full bolt ons. Going to cam it later this year.
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I enjoy my Circle D 278mm 3200. It drives differently than stock though.
anybody see this yet
in Bolt On Performance
Posted
I love it how a bunch of people in this thread, who don't have 1-7/8 headers, say they lose power on a stock truck.... SMDH.