Jump to content

kelleyperformance

Supporting Member
  • Posts

    2,831
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by kelleyperformance

  1. yea thats the only thing that makes any sense. the only reason the truck works is because the crane rockers and pushrods are adjustable.... i think im gunna put GM partnumber 88958689. they are the "GM racing lifters" capable of 8k RPM, well more than needed. these are incredibly noisey, i hate them. wanna take them out anyways, but the stockers were starting to make some lifter tap.... was revving to 5800 before, now to 6600.... i think those stock lifters would REALLY have a fit now
  2. look for the driveshafts in the front, and the transfer case. also doing a gas-brake burnout will tell u for sure
  3. ya thats what i thought about the links.... strange thats the only crane product listed to work on the LS series....!?! i used the stock pushrods, so that cant be it. heads are the LS2 castings, 65cc chambers. but i compared the rocker arms and the pushrods from the LS2 to the LQ9. same part numbers, and ive installed countless of those heads on LS2s, no problem.... lifters are the only thing i can think of
  4. when i built my bottom end up, i changed the lifters, rockers, and basically everything but the block.... strange thing is, the stock rockers will not function on my truck, and nothing else makes sense other than the lifters. the valves stay open when the stock rockers are used. so i checked teh lifters out, and crane only lists one set for the LS series motors. i searched for my p/n, no matches. they arent on the crane site. they are on summit, however. maybe they are discontinued? anyways, i looked up the new p/n that replaced them..... mine are on summit for like $570/set, and the replacement is $210???? and they have link bars.....? my stock lifters didnt have link bars.... do any of your guys lifters have them? thanks here are the stock lifters outa the truck http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku and the ones i have(at least the box says i have these....) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku
  5. yea thats what i have finally concluded.... the dayco belts are the quietest from my experience, but they stretch the most. i got the gates(napa) belt, its a 111". so we shall see what happens now..... and dave, each time the tensioner has hit the stops....
  6. thats a very nice lookin HD. i have no need for it, but im sure that truck will make somebody quite happy good work tom
  7. yea i use that same exact belt now, so we will how this works. i definatly had too long of a belt, i just never thought to shorten it. for some unknown reason, my maggie came with a 3.2" pulley. this blows because i want a 3.4 to tow with..... havent been able to find an aftermarket billet 3.4 either. i had to go to like weston to find a stupid NAPA, and the belt was only 4 bucks cheaper than the tensioner.
  8. thanks, i will definatly try that. the maggie one is also made for a ford, so no worries i will go try that, but do you think i should take an inch out of the belt because of the 2.8?
  9. ya that will work... and if not, it should reset in like 50 miles or less
  10. well, did it again today. except this time it was a miracle lol. was WOT on the on-ramp from pembroke road to n/ bound 95, and heard a pop. looked in my mirror to see a perfectly fine belt flying thru the air and a jeep swerving for dear life like it was a bomb. the tensioner is fine, the little stopper to keep it from going past its unloaded state is chipped tho..... wtf is casuing this?
  11. i can only imagine how light those must be....... those paired with the new SSBC 8 piston callipers and some nice 2 piece 15" rotors with billet hats would look amazing. you would also have more invested between your control arms than your truck itself
  12. tahts one of the funniest things i have seen in a while! the response is even funnier! LMAO... nice find
  13. nice kill. my buddy has an A4 2.0t and an RS4. the RS4 does have a much wider body, which is stock. the only body panel the RS shares with the A is the roof and main door panels. that RS doesnt shock me in a straight line, its the WOT thru a turn at 60 that gets you excited i have never driven anything with the precision that car has. (and it chirps all 4 shifting into 2nd, stock) anyways, the APR chip on any TC audi will unlesh about 50hp and 80ft/lb. his a4 has the ARP pcm, ARP intake/exhuast, and ARP front mount. it runs low 13s, its no joke(might add its FWD, helps a tad...... when its NOT actually breaking stuff with wheel hop)
  14. lmao JB weld! i was actually thinking about cyro treating that POS..... then throwing a billet idler pulley on it. but the katech is easier and hopefully much stronger. but you know katech, they are some insane $$$$$. funny thing is the dayco belt has been on and thrown off all three times, its still as strong as it was new. (might add my horribly noisey gatorbacks both broke when the tensioner actually held) ya we should do that for sure
  15. Nice kill, the arrogant ones are always the most fun my buddy has a 350 with the "track package". we installed a borla catback and a CAI. he talks more shit than a 12 yearold trying to drive an Evo. anyways, i must pull 5-6 lengths on him from 0-100 every time. its much more embarrassing from a roll, i feel like he is sandbagging he is somewhat more humble now that a 6k lb truck showed him the door. it made like 281 hp at the crank with the CAI and catback lol. its rated higher than that stock.... we got 2.0l cobalts with $500 mods doing that
  16. hahaha mr. p yea that is BS, because even if it did push the cylinder, it would need to turn left or right to do anything...... the best way is a little air bladder and a long piece of flexible metal.... that will open almost anything harmlessly
  17. yea bolt-ons are the way to go on an everyday driver. cant go wrong..... increased performance and usually increased fuel economy haha yes we do, fellow neighboors need to unite lol the truck will be perfect as soon as its not an everyday driver.... sold the cobalt ss s/c, but plan on getting a CTS-V in the next few months, so the truck and the garage can become very close friends
  18. well like i tell everyone, just get the blower, maybe some nice headers, and call it a day. i had ZERO issues until i tore the engine apart and changed everything. that was a BIG mistake. it mightve brought another 100+ hp, but the disiel noise and the torque snapping everything is just too much for an everyday driver. mario, we discussed before about the internals of the LQ9. they can hold 450++whp no problem, all day long. the magna with our dyno tune, a pulley, and a TB is plenty(440whp)...... 12 second quater with stock fuel economy should be enough for just about anyone
  19. well as some of you know, this makes 3 not sure what to do, im a little fed up with this. the last two i wasnt even in boost..... i can understand how 600+ ft/lb would break it, but wet weather driving on teh stock goodyears? how is that alright? anybody have any ideas? thinking about getting a custom made katech billet tensioner. the last two just did three complete rotations, this time it snapped and left itself on federal hwy
  20. my favorite part is the name of the ship: Hyundai Confidence looks like their transportation is as reliable as their vehicles
  21. nice ride. although i think i see some dirt on the axle, you missed a spot lol. i wish i could keep my ss that clean
  22. yea the savage is nice. i have a revo and a tmax. these are all rc trucks, that all go at least 40 mph outa the box. AWD, 2 speed gearbox with reverse.... these little things are serious lol. its definatly fun, but then again any of them are gunna rape your wallet (in increasing order: car, plane, heli)
  23. nice! now lets get some E-fans on there and a 3" pulley trust me a pulley and a tune will make your 5k MUCH more enjoyable. i saw 40whp just from taking the maggie tune off, and about 15 more with a 3"
×
×
  • Create New...